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AWR 21.5mm rear swaybar pictures

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    AWR 21.5mm rear swaybar pictures

    With ProtegeClub.com going crazy, I thought I should move over some of my old how-to's I've posted over there to here. While they are still available.

    Original Post:10-27-2002
    ---------------------------------
    Boy, this this thing make a huge difference. There's virtually no lean throughout corners. Straight line stability has improved, and steering feel is better. You can feel the steering want to turn back to the center faster. The car just begs for more.

    Installation took about 3 hours, because the endlinks are a pain in the ass. I had put the things on backwards first, then I realized I couldn't get to the hex screws without taking the rear wheels off. I had to completely remove both endlinks and start over.

    Pictures will be up shortly....

    EDIT:
    Here are the pictures:



    Clint/1999 "Sport20"

    #2
    where did you get those??? im like all bunked up when it comes to buying stuff for my car. and a price please.
    .....HELLO MY NAME IS BEN...



    186.08whp
    225.94wtq
    torque monster!!!!
    dyno graph 8-10-and 12psi
    http://www.msprotege.com/members/THE...no%20graph.jpg
    http://videos.streetfire.net/player....0-C19CA06AF01E dyno vid

    blahblahblahblahblahblah

    Comment


      #3
      I bought it of Protege5Online.com for $247 IIRC...
      Last edited by NegatiZE; 08-30-2003, 10:18 PM.
      Clint/1999 "Sport20"

      Comment


        #4
        Any tips for removal of the endlinks? Last time I tried to install springs they stripped and wouldn't come loose for the life of me. Air tools perhaps? Any help is appreciated, thanks.

        Comment


          #5
          I've never removed them, but i agree they do look like a pain in the ass to remove. The black blocks with the hex screws in them have rusted on mine...
          Clint/1999 "Sport20"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by NegatiZE
            I've never removed them, but i agree they do look like a pain in the ass to remove. The black blocks with the hex screws in them have rusted on mine...
            How'd you put new ones on without removing them? You even said they were a pain in the ass...I'm lost here.

            Comment


              #7
              I've never removed them after putting them on for the very first time. After that the blocks have rusted and they are not going anywhere.
              Clint/1999 "Sport20"

              Comment


                #8
                You know the diameter of the factory ES rear sway bar? Also, are the endlinks just adjustable, or thicker/stronger? I plan to order the bar tomorrow or by the end of the week. Thanks!

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm not too sure about the ES swaybar but my stock LX bar was 14mm AFAIK. The endlinks themselves are actually adjustable for length; to actually adjust the swaybar firmness setting you have to either slide the blocks up and down the bar (for the 21.5mm) or move it to another peg (19mm bar).
                  Clint/1999 "Sport20"

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I took the "pro-active" route and dealt with the rust before I ever saw any. Here's what I came up with. So far, so good!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Natey, could you please explain?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by gcs118
                        Natey, could you please explain?
                        Sure, sorry about that! :D

                        The problem as I see it is that the bolts are made out of steel, and the slider brackets out of aluminium. Put those two metals together under a car and they begin to oxidize, then rust.

                        Here's what I did:
                        First I bored out the holes in the slider brackets a little bit, just enough so the stock bolts could slide around freely. Then I got some stainless steel bolts and nuts. I have lock-washers on each one as well.
                        The s/s bolts are the same gauge but a little bit longer than the stock AWR ones, so now I'm able to tighten the slider brackets by cranking the nut down. No more stripped threads, and no more rusted-shut slider bracket.

                        Also, I just WD-40'd the crap out of my stock endlinks about 45 min. before I took them off, and I had no problem.
                        Last edited by Natey; 09-03-2003, 08:53 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks, makes a whole lot more sense now! I'll see if I can rig something like that up, too.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Too get the OEM end links off, I used Liquid Wrench. Let that sit on there for a while and they came off. My AWR blocks also have rust on them and it's now cluncking a little, I think it's time for more Lithium Grease. I have the adjustable 19mm rear sway bar and it's awsome, not too much. I have the blocks set about and inch and a half from the end, so maybe a middle stiffness. I would definitly recomened going with a rear sway bar, too bad it rusts and can cluck a little, ohh well, that's what music and Grease is for. I also got mine from www.protege5online.com, Mitch is great to work with.
                            "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Natey
                              Sure, sorry about that! :D

                              The problem as I see it is that the bolts are made out of steel, and the slider brackets out of aluminium. Put those two metals together under a car and they begin to oxidize, then rust.

                              Here's what I did:
                              First I bored out the holes in the slider brackets a little bit, just enough so the stock bolts could slide around freely. Then I got some stainless steel bolts and nuts. I have lock-washers on each one as well.
                              The s/s bolts are the same gauge but a little bit longer than the stock AWR ones, so now I'm able to tighten the slider brackets by cranking the nut down. No more stripped threads, and no more rusted-shut slider bracket.

                              Also, I just WD-40'd the crap out of my stock endlinks about 45 min. before I took them off, and I had no problem.

                              Ok, now I see what you are saying. It took me a minute. Just changed out for longer bolts that won't rust with the blocks.

                              So, stainless steel bolts, eh?

                              I was thinking about gettin gthe 21.5 mm bar for my MP3. Now I know what to watch for. Thanks.
                              "Hey look at me, I'm stupid as hell and can't even breath properly, little alone read!" - Master Shake
                              2001 Mazda Protege MP3, with Flyin' Protege Turbo Kit


                              www.triplezoom.com

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