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    which oil work best

    which oil work best in my 2nd Gen Pro.I live in the Carribean so it always hot and I drive fast all the time.

    #2
    I'm not sure exactly what you need. I live in central Mississippi, and we have very hot summers and mild winters. I've always used Mobil 1 synthetic in all of my cars.
    current mods:

    bodykit with custom green paint
    55" Matrix GR Motorsports two element wing
    clear corner lens
    17" Enkei RS6 wheels with 205/40R17 rubber
    Ground Control coilover kit
    KYB GR-2 struts
    LED undercar kit
    Tenzo Racing seats
    Pioneer Premier DEH-860MP head unit
    2 Cadence 12" subs
    Cadence 1000 watt amp
    Lightning Audio 1.0 farad capacitor
    Pioneer Premier front and rear speakers

    future mods:

    engine swap
    custom interior
    upgraded sound system

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      #3
      Originally posted by mig360m
      which oil work best in my 2nd Gen Pro.I live in the Carribean so it always hot and I drive fast all the time.
      Standard: Castrol GTX
      Synthetic: Mobil One

      First off, oils are like ice cream...everyone has their favorite.

      I've been repeatedly impressed by the Castrol. Doing a headgasket on a friends Integra that had been religiously treated with Castrol every 3500 miles opened my eyes. At 160k, the valve train was clean enough to eat off of. When my first Honda needed a valve job, the head was all carmelized and brown...I had been using mostly Pennzoil and changed my oil 99% on schedule.

      For Syntheitics, I say Mobil One...it's the best of the widely available synthetics like Valvoline, Castrol, Quaker State, etc.

      The "premium" synthetics like Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Motul perform marginally better in some tests then Mobil One.
      But with Mobil One offering more protection then the typical street engine is ever going to need, you have to wonder if the additional hassle and expense of the premium synthetics will be worth it.

      Personally, I use Amsoil...if I'm out and the store that carries it is out, I'll use Mobil One as the substitiute.

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        #4
        [QUOTE=davens]Standard: Castrol GTX
        Synthetic: Mobil One

        agreed
        95 ES
        05 S60R

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          #5
          Motor Oil, myths and facts....

          Okay,

          There was a study done a few years back, I forget who. The gist of it was, that there was NO difference between brands of oil at the same viscosity and type (synthetic, blend and regular)! All oil of the same type performed EXACTLY the same!

          How is that? Well, all oil is designed to perform the the SAE standards printed on the label. These standards are fairly comprehensive, so there will be little difference in the capabilities amongst brands at the same viscosity.

          The big difference was between synthetic and regular/blend. Synthetic was superior by far, due to the fact it is completely man-made. The manufacturer can select only those properties it wants, instead of having to accept some undesirable properties that come as part of the base stock.

          Get this, the blends marketed as a midrange choice between synthetic and regular oils, PERFORMED NO BETTER THAN THE REGULAR OILS. Instead of bringing the performance up by adding synthetic, the regular bse stock brought the performance down.

          So, the differences in oil are pure marketing, except for the big jump from regular to synthetic. However, the brand DOES NOT MATTER, no matter what type you buy. I know, some swear by their brands, and in extreme conditions the slight differences may make the difference. I'm not going to stop them from buying whatever they prefer. But for the average consumer, there is no difference! So, buy whatever is on sale, or buy the house brand, you'll save money and still be able to sleep at night. If you change your oil every 3000 miles (another marketing gimmick by the quick change places, you could go as much as your owner's manual says without problems under normal condidtions), the oil will not have broken down enough to even matter.

          As for deposits, the type of driving has the biggest effect on how the oil breaks down. Hot, cold, dusty, lots of stop and go driving will break down oil faster than mostly highway driving.

          Maybe this helps, but google it yourself if you want. Forewarned is forearmed.

          Comment


            #6
            I use Red Line oil because it is a fully synthetic oil, not a blend. MT-90 in my transmission and 10W-30 in the engine. Apart from all the known advantages of using synthetic oil as compared with mineral oil, the ones I notice most, as a driver, are the following: smoother shifts (especially in cold weather), less engine noise both at idle and cruise and somewhat better fuel mileage. All of these effects can be explained by the reduction in internal gear box and engine friction provided by synthetic over mineral oils.

            The use of synthetic oil also increases BHP output, to some degree, because of the reduction in friction HP. I can't say for sure whether or not I feel any performance benefit here but on the theory that every little bit helps, why not use synthetic?
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

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              #7
              well here's my question: do they even use SAE standards for specifying oil tolerances in Trinidad???? maybe he can't get any of these oil (epecially the expensive brands ie Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, etc) or are very hard (and expensive) to get?

              i think mig360m need to post what oils are available where he lives, and we can recommend something from that list.

              '04 Titanium RX-8

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                #8
                Right, no oils are exactly the same. They're made by different companies in different plants in different parts of the world. However, to be certified, they must meet or exceed the SAE requirements to place the seal on their bottles. I they meet these requirements, shouldn't they behave similarly?

                From what I remember, this was a blind test, and it was consistent across the board. Mineral and blends PERFORMED exactly the same, but full synthetics performed better, but no synthetic was any better than the other. That was the only difference. THE BRAND MADE NO DIFFERENCE! I don't think they tested the extreme performance brands like red-line or amsoil. Still, for the average guy, like me, that tells me that they name brands spend a lot of money on marketing for very little true result. It doesn't matter if you have a "performance" or "truck/SUV' or Hi-Mileage" oil. If you change your oil within specifications, IT DOESN'T MATTER. So buy synthetic, just buy WHATS ON SALE. For the overwhelming part, you won't go wrong. The SAE requirements are for viscosity and amounts of impurities, but that lends itself to the quality of the oil, and if the companies design their product to meet or slightly exceed that, then they will perform similarly.
                Last edited by JeffWeimer; 08-21-2004, 06:37 PM.

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                  #9
                  I use Quaker State Peak Perfmance 20w-50.

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