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    Need some help.

    Hey guys i just got my 96 Mazda Protege LX and i have some questions.........the first one is when its in drive and it idles it shakes alot or when im at a light it shakes aswell could this be because the engine mounts are not tight enough? my other Q is when im at a light my RPM gauge goes way donw and it feels like its about to stall but it doesint what could be the probleme there? and aslo it leaks oil to but not from the engine usually it drips from the frame.......thanks guys

    #2
    If ya just got it ya might wanna replace the plugs and air-filter,than make sure your idle's set to spec. if it still idles rough check the ignition timing and compression. hopefully this helps and ya get that problem solved.
    '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
    Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

    '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

    sigpic

    Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!

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      #3
      Definitely check the compression. My car is a 97 LX (auto transmission), and I have the same symptoms. I've checked the compression and it's low in cylinder 4. This causes a misfire, and the engine runs very rough at low RPMs. It does the stalling thing too -- the RPMs drop almost to the point where it stalls but then it recovers.

      It's been running rough for more than a year and it remained the same for a long time, but just recently I've noticed that it's getting a little bit worse (the stalling part). Fixing that engine is not worth the money...

      It's not your engine mounts. That I know for sure.

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        #4
        ok thanks alot guys! but one prob my dad is hard headed and thinks this car is normal shaking and leaking oil and almost dieing so he will not let me fix it because to him there is nothing wrong with it lol, so anyways it is my compression? will it cost alot to fix? im only 17 and this is my only car so i gotta do whatever ic an to keep it running even if it is not worth fixing.

        Comment


          #5
          To fix the compression you'll need to spend upwards of $700.
          But to take the guessing out of the game, just go to a mechanic and do a basic tune up. If the problem persists, have the mechanic do a compression test. That will tell you a lot.

          Then come back for more.

          Comment


            #6
            I'm not sure what the rest of you guys think but I don't recommend you getting the compression fixed at a Mazda dealership. They charge waaaaay too much for labor AND parts.

            I went to a mazda dealership to fix my lifters because all four were worn beyonf belief, or so they say. Paid them well over $1500 and the car just isn't the same any more.
            ED
            '05 6s 3.0L MT & '98 Pro DX 1.5L AT

            Mazda Enthusiast Club Member
            Click for my CarDomain page


            2nd Gen Protege Parts Catalog project in progress
            WTB: Gray 97/98 Protege Cupholder and Door Trim

            Comment


              #7
              "IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up
              '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
              Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

              '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

              sigpic

              Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by CBlaze
                "IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up
                my car does the whole shaking thing at a redlight too or when the car is idling.... but its only when i have the a/c on 4 cylinders have trouble powering the compressor at idle at least from my understanding...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by CBlaze
                  "IF" it is a compression problem its most likly in the valve train eg: bad seals ,burnt valve...not too expensive to fix yourself, if you know what you are doing? but definatly start with a tune up
                  Obviously he does not know enough about cars/engines to figure out what's wrong with his, let alone replace anything around the valves. That is why I stated $700 as a minimum for repairs, and unless he can find a friend who will do the work for free, that is the price he's gonna have to pay.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ok thanks guys, i do know how to fix cars as i have been for years and i helped my dad at a car shop but i know nothing about rotary engines so thats why im asking i dont know where any of the **** is lol

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by psycotic
                      my car does the whole shaking thing at a redlight too or when the car is idling.... but its only when i have the a/c on 4 cylinders have trouble powering the compressor at idle at least from my understanding...
                      yeh same here, does yours not have power at all when you take off from a green light? mine does that too but not always sometimes it has power other times it doesint.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Mazda96Protege
                        i know nothing about rotary engines so thats why im asking i dont know where any of the **** is lol
                        LMFAO
                        You're kidding, right?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          rotary? *scratches head* he must be kidding. . . there's no way

                          Comment


                            #14
                            yeh never had a rotary engine the only type of cars i worked on were the older ones besides that im not much of a machanic just helped out a bit when i was younger, the only thign i really know how to work in motorcycles thats it......

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'm not sure if you know what we were talking about.
                              The only Mazda with a rotary engine is the RX-7, RX-8...

                              Comment

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