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    Dyno's

    Ok, I got my car dyno tested at a local shop. I have an '03 ES with an AEM short ram air intake and a RacingBeat cat back exhaust for performance upgrades. The shop was having a difficult time getting read outs from the tach line, so the charts are mapped against MPH. Ones that do have the RPMs having missing data points and look like ****. Oh well. They did 3 runs in 3rd gear and 1 in 4th. Topped out at 108 HP. I think that's pritty consistant with the mods done so far. I also am running Mobil 1 synthetic and need have 8k on the oil. Temp was around 60 degrees and never did check the tire pressure. Anyways enjoy. I plan on putting both the JSPEC and Mazdaspeed intake and exhaust cams in soon and getting it retested. Then putting in the Racingmazda header with no cats and testing it again. I'll continue to post here.
    Attached Files
    "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

    #2
    Top 3rd gear with RPMs screwy!
    Attached Files
    "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

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      #3
      Same problem as previous!
      Attached Files
      "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

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        #4
        And then there was 4th gear, 110MPH
        I guess I've been close once before.
        Attached Files
        "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

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          #5
          Finally the RPM 4th gear, all screwed up. The shop said thev'e had one other Protege in, a P5, and that the same thing was going on, they atributed it to a "Mazda thing."
          Attached Files
          "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

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            #6
            Overall, looking at the curves, it sure does smooth out when the car goes rich. Does anyone think a new jet of high flow injectors, fuel rail, and regulator would help a NA in the performance department? Or will the ECU just pull the fuel delivery back?
            "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

            Comment


              #7
              I'd put a standalone on that engine before even thinking about replacing the fuel system.

              What's with those charts? It has Air Fuel Ratio on the right side... 17-18? That's pretty lean. Never seen a dyno chart like that.
              Bryan
              MOCC MEMBER

              -"Mean people rule."

              Originally posted by midnightblue97
              Thought the oil pump was run off the timing belt??

              Comment


                #8
                looks like max power drops around 5800rpm...thats not good.

                The curve looks real nice until then

                It's not a mazda thing dude, it's their ****. how can everybody else be fine, but that shop can't do it right. must be a settings or a calibaration thing thier not doing properly.

                I'll use myself as an example. at the time of my dyno (almost 3 years ago) i only had 7 more hp than you, but you have 7ftlbs more torque. but you fall off at 5800rpm, where i run right to redline, 7000rpm until i drop off. that 1200 extra rpm sure comes in handy. In a drag race, i'd have the advantage. but i don't drag race

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by MazdaRacer
                  looks like max power drops around 5800rpm...thats not good.

                  The curve looks real nice until then

                  It's not a mazda thing dude, it's their ****. how can everybody else be fine, but that shop can't do it right. must be a settings or a calibaration thing thier not doing properly.

                  I'll use myself as an example. at the time of my dyno (almost 3 years ago) i only had 7 more hp than you, but you have 7ftlbs more torque. but you fall off at 5800rpm, where i run right to redline, 7000rpm until i drop off. that 1200 extra rpm sure comes in handy. In a drag race, i'd have the advantage. but i don't drag race
                  Even though the guys at the dyno shop are really nice, I'm thinking I might try some where else when I do the next set of Dynos. As far as dropping off at 5800 RPM, I would trust that from the charts. They didn't capture the rpm's very well. Plus, they kept changing how high the RMPs should go in the computer.
                  "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by zenilder
                    I'd put a standalone on that engine before even thinking about replacing the fuel system.

                    What's with those charts? It has Air Fuel Ratio on the right side... 17-18? That's pretty lean. Never seen a dyno chart like that.
                    I think your reading the wrong line for the AF. In the first graph the AF is around 15 till 60MPH then drops to 11.5. Lean at first then going towards the rich side.

                    As far as a standalone, what would you recomend or have you seen anyone before on the board with one?
                    "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks for your comments guys, I know the charts are a little hard to read and may be different from the ones you've seen before, but it's all I've got to work with.
                      "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by kopp0041
                        I think your reading the wrong line for the AF. In the first graph the AF is around 15 till 60MPH then drops to 11.5. Lean at first then going towards the rich side.

                        As far as a standalone, what would you recomend or have you seen anyone before on the board with one?
                        Haltech is what I've seen recommended the most. Braden (turboge) has a lot of experience tuning with them.

                        Edit:: Notice how the chart says 17.5 for max A/F ? I don't think that's right.
                        Last edited by charles; 10-01-2003, 09:01 AM.
                        2006 Mazda 3 hatchback manual

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by charles
                          Haltech is what I've seen recommended the most. Braden (turboge) has a lot of experience tuning with them.

                          Edit:: Notice how the chart says 17.5 for max A/F ? I don't think that's right.
                          Is the Haltech for use on a 2.0L 3rd gen? I've seen some posts about it, but haven't paid much attention to it, something new to research.
                          "In the end, it doesn't even matter" Linkin Park

                          Comment


                            #14
                            the Haltek EK6 will work on any engine, it replaces your current ECU completely.

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                              #15
                              I think that someone should investigate the Unichip as a piggyback solution. That way you don't have to mess with a full standalone and how it deals with A/C, radiator fans, cold starts, etc.

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