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    Please explain these...

    1) whats the difference from springs, and coilovers
    2) what is camber
    3) how does a rotor change your performance
    1992 Ultra Blue Metallic EGT - The 'scort with no name - crap>reliable daily>rallycross prep>stage rally
    Featured in Rally Gearbox Magazine 3/1/11
    "There's a hierarchy of insanity in motor sports. Normal people think all racers are crazy. Folks who race sedans think people in open-wheel cars are nuts. People who race cars of any kind think motorcycle racers are absolutely off theirs meds. But there's one group that everyone agrees is made up of the most extreme, the most daring, and absolutely craziest people in racing - rally racers."

    #2
    1) springs are to lower the stance/stabalize of your vehicle at whatever the manufacturer sets the drop at i.e. Eibachs drop the front 1.2" and the back 1.8" and there is nothing you can do to change that unless you feel like cutting coils(which I don't recommend cutting coils for several reasons). Coil-overs are sleeves that wrap around the base of the strut and allow you to raise or lower the stance to your likings but you pay for the ride. They are normally a little bouncy.





    2) Camber is: picture this.. the part of the tire/wheel that is touching the ground is a common point, it nevers moves. Camber is what you have if you tilt the wheel left/right but it is measured in degrees. Soem autocrossers like a little -camber so the car steers in quicker but you pay for it in tire usage.


    3) as for rotors.. I assume you mean vented/slotted rotors as compared to standard oem steel ones? This means they are hollowed out between planes and holes drill thru them for added cooling. The slotted means that they create less heat blah blah blah.. I can tell you that for day to day driving upgraded rotors, to me, are a waste of money. They do stop a little faster but is it worth the pads you are using? They will go thru pads a lot quicker. As for heat? I have only had one incident where the rotors in my car heated up to the point I could feel it in the pedal? That was driving up and down the hills in Gatlinburg and George Washington state park?

    Hope this helps.
    'I did nothing... I did absolutely nothing and it was everything I thought it could be!?'
    -Dean
    2003.5 Vivid Yellow Protege5

    Mods:
    18" G-Racing Kirins - hyper black
    Eibach Pro-Line lowering springs
    MazdaSpeed Axelback Exhaust
    Injen CAI - Polished
    Tinted windows. Llumar 35front 2&hatch glass/25middle roll down glass/18backside4
    DaveB trim rings
    Painted Calipers - G2

    Stereo:
    Alpine CVA-1005 - 6.5" LCD Reciever.
    Alpine DVA-5210 - DVD/WMA/CD/MP3 Player
    Alpine ERA-G320 - EQ/Surround processor.
    Kicker IX-405D 5 Channel Amp
    Kicker 12" L5's in bandpass enclosure (2 of them)
    Kicker K-57.2 Components up front
    Kicker K-65 in back.


    Future Mods?

    Turbo?

    Comment


      #3
      they shouldn't go thru pads quicker . . . and they really don't have any performance advantages, even at the track, just get a good set of pads, upgrade the fluid, and if you really want, get ss lines

      Comment


        #4
        I beg to differ, surely, it depends on what pads you buy along with your rotors. For example; EBC (huuuuge brake pad company) states you will get 15-18k (in a lightweight automobile) out of their most popular aftermarket pad? Imagine how few miles you will get if you aren't driving a metro? Your stock front pads should last 25-35k miles easily with normal use.
        'I did nothing... I did absolutely nothing and it was everything I thought it could be!?'
        -Dean
        2003.5 Vivid Yellow Protege5

        Mods:
        18" G-Racing Kirins - hyper black
        Eibach Pro-Line lowering springs
        MazdaSpeed Axelback Exhaust
        Injen CAI - Polished
        Tinted windows. Llumar 35front 2&hatch glass/25middle roll down glass/18backside4
        DaveB trim rings
        Painted Calipers - G2

        Stereo:
        Alpine CVA-1005 - 6.5" LCD Reciever.
        Alpine DVA-5210 - DVD/WMA/CD/MP3 Player
        Alpine ERA-G320 - EQ/Surround processor.
        Kicker IX-405D 5 Channel Amp
        Kicker 12" L5's in bandpass enclosure (2 of them)
        Kicker K-57.2 Components up front
        Kicker K-65 in back.


        Future Mods?

        Turbo?

        Comment


          #5
          If you're using crappy rotors they might tear up the pads, but if you got something that didn't suck (ie Brembos) then they shouldn't be eating pads, if they are, something is wrong

          Comment


            #6
            1) Lowering springs, shorter than stock springs designed to lower your car while making the suspension stiffer.

            2) Coilovers, adjustable perches for the springs... let you raise/lower the car without changing springs.

            3) Camber, see picture above

            4) Rotors, aftermarket rotors can give a performance advantage if they shed heat quicker and/or weigh less then stock rotors. Sometimes aftermarket rotors are as cheap or cheaper than factory rotors, drilled rotors IMO are a waste of money. Cheap drilled rotors tend to crack rather easily when subjected to stress, vented is the way to go

            5) Even though you didn't ask Brake pads will make more of a difference than rotors and steel braided brake lines combined. Make sure you don't buy too agressive a pad for a daily driver though, a lot of serious performance pad require a good bit of heat before they really start to bite.
            _________________________________
            '12 Focus SE hatch
            '04 Eddie Bauer V8 4X4 Explorer
            '05 Saab 9-3 turbo (sold)
            '90 Mazda 323 GT (sold)
            '04 Mazda Tribute (sold)
            '92 Mazda Protege LX (sold)
            '91 Mazda Protege LX (blown engine)
            '91 Honda Prelude (totalled)
            '91 Honda CRX SI (sold)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by DeanSweetP5
              I beg to differ, surely, it depends on what pads you buy along with your rotors. For example; EBC (huuuuge brake pad company) states you will get 15-18k (in a lightweight automobile) out of their most popular aftermarket pad? Imagine how few miles you will get if you aren't driving a metro? Your stock front pads should last 25-35k miles easily with normal use.

              that's a function of the pad though, not the rotor.

              although drilled and slotted rotors will over time eat pads faster, the difference is small.


              however, drilled rotors are prone to crack, EVEN IF THEY ARE CAST WITH THE HOLES!



              rotors are a wear item. just get factory blanks and you'll be fine.
              "Never run out of real estate, traction & ideas at the same time"
              -93 MR2, 129 ES
              ClubProtege.com Tech Articles

              Originally posted by WTF
              Remember low compression makes more space for AIR, HEEELLOOOO!

              Comment


                #8
                Rotor? As in 20b instead of 13b?

                no nissan link Jesse? really good link about why drilling is a waste, and what you should do if your want a well performing brake system.

                If you really want aftermarket rotors, get some slotted rotors and some hawk pads or something. Oh and be sure to change the brake fuild out if you havent done it in a while. I hadn't done mine in a while and after I changed it, I noticed a difference.
                The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                Comment


                  #9
                  alright, well thanks everyone for helpin me out there
                  1992 Ultra Blue Metallic EGT - The 'scort with no name - crap>reliable daily>rallycross prep>stage rally
                  Featured in Rally Gearbox Magazine 3/1/11
                  "There's a hierarchy of insanity in motor sports. Normal people think all racers are crazy. Folks who race sedans think people in open-wheel cars are nuts. People who race cars of any kind think motorcycle racers are absolutely off theirs meds. But there's one group that everyone agrees is made up of the most extreme, the most daring, and absolutely craziest people in racing - rally racers."

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by D323
                    Rotor? As in 20b instead of 13b?

                    no nissan link Jesse? really good link about why drilling is a waste, and what you should do if your want a well performing brake system.

                    If you really want aftermarket rotors, get some slotted rotors and some hawk pads or something. Oh and be sure to change the brake fuild out if you havent done it in a while. I hadn't done mine in a while and after I changed it, I noticed a difference.
                    Here's an updated link for that. Altimas.net forum seems to have joined with some others.

                    http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...327&perpage=40
                    2006 Mazda 3 hatchback manual

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I know this will be a really stupid question but I've honestly never taken my suspension apart. I've been looking at the coil overs alittle on the net, and probly going to pick some up after getting rims, tires and so on. Is it just a replacement for your springs? I'm sure with both parts in hand and everything taken apart it would be pretty obvious *shrug*
                      93 Protege DX *dead* =(

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by charles
                        Here's an updated link for that. Altimas.net forum seems to have joined with some others.

                        http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...327&perpage=40
                        thx d00d. Thats what I was looking for.
                        The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

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