Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

To all Z5 owners, please post here!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    To all Z5 owners, please post here!

    Hey guys and gals... if there are any,

    If you have or had a Z5, please post in this tread:

    1. An unstable idle. What I mean by that, is that you rev the engine, the rpm's increase.... then decrease to the point that it goes below its idle rpm.... then it comes back up and stabilizes back to normal. Another example would be you're crusing on the highway, head on the offramp, and instead of downshifting you push the clutch in and the brakes, and come to a stop in neutral... and the same thing happens, rpms dip below the idle rpm, then increase, then stabilize

    2. A misfire. What i mean by that is if you either have a check engine code for a misfire in ANY cylinder, or if you feel the car vibrating at idle. The idle vibrating could be lots of things, but the vibration that I am referring to can be known by going to the tailpipe when the car is idling, and feeling the exhaust flow... what you're feeling for is whether or not it has an irregular pulse. It may be hard for you to understand what i mean, but these two videos should clear it up for you. Both of them are of me revving my Z5... one at the engine, and one at the exhaust. Watch the beginning of each video, and turn up the volume, and listen and watch carefully... you'll clearly hear the misfire... chug chug chug chug chug..... and then i rev the **** out of it.... then you could hear the rpm's drop below the idle, and pick back up....

    Authorized Canadian dealer and distributor of Hardrace suspension products since 2005, Stage Four Motorsports specializes in driver and vehicle track preparation, allowing enthusiasts to safely and competitively experience high-performance driving on a closed course.


    Authorized Canadian dealer and distributor of Hardrace suspension products since 2005, Stage Four Motorsports specializes in driver and vehicle track preparation, allowing enthusiasts to safely and competitively experience high-performance driving on a closed course.



    So when you post in the thread, if you could please include this information:

    1. The year of your car
    2. Roughly how many kilometers/miles on the engine
    3. If you have any of these 2 problems. If your Z5 is running fine, then you need not answer any of the other questions
    4. If you do have a problem, tell me whether you have problem 1 or 2 or both


    I know that there is a handful of Z5's out there exibiting this problem, there have been many many posts about "my idle sucks" or "i got a misfire" or things like that...
    My intentions are simple, I have a feeling there is some sort of trend going on here, and I think if we could all provide enough information, we can all trouble shoot these problems and figure out what is going on. But before we even try to start that, i'd like to know how many people actually suffer from one of these 2 problems.

    Thanks a lot guys
    - chris
    Last edited by pigeon; 11-19-2004, 05:14 AM.

    #2
    Problem number one, I have seen very few proteges, z5 powered or otherwise that don't have this problem, we just accept it.
    Ryan The middle child is always ignored
    BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
    Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

    Comment


      #3
      Hi my name is loganss and I have problem # 1
      1. Year: 1998
      2. Miles on engine: ~107,000 miles
      3. If you have any of these 2 problems. If your Z5 is running fine, then you need not answer any of the other questions
      4. Problem #1 but I think my engine used to misfire on cyl 4. I have to dig through papers to see what the shop did. I know it cost me $1k+.
      ED
      '05 6s 3.0L MT & '98 Pro DX 1.5L AT

      Mazda Enthusiast Club Member
      Click for my CarDomain page


      2nd Gen Protege Parts Catalog project in progress
      WTB: Gray 97/98 Protege Cupholder and Door Trim

      Comment


        #4
        1. 1996 mazda protege DX manual
        2. 87,000 miles
        3. the problem i experience is the unstable idle. i have never figured it out. just like what you mentioned. when i slow down the idle goes down to about its about to die but does not, sometimes it does but very very very seldom, and then regain some of the power and before i make a complete stop the idle normalizes.

        this is to share my 2 cents. what octane gas do you guys use? i use the 87 and have a bad feeling that this is the culprit.

        1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
        Mods:
        DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
        http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by beetle_orange
          this is to share my 2 cents. what octane gas do you guys use? i use the 87 and have a bad feeling that this is the culprit.
          I've been using 89 for around a year and i still get that unstable idle.
          ED
          '05 6s 3.0L MT & '98 Pro DX 1.5L AT

          Mazda Enthusiast Club Member
          Click for my CarDomain page


          2nd Gen Protege Parts Catalog project in progress
          WTB: Gray 97/98 Protege Cupholder and Door Trim

          Comment


            #6
            hi my name is psyco... and im an alcoholi..... wait wrong forum...
            i have a 97 protege lx 1.5l z5 p.o.s.
            problem 1 i guess... my car has a horrible shake when the air conditioning is on and occasionally when i stop my car will drop down to like 250rpm and shake pretty badly then go back up to 750 and just rattle a bit.

            is 750 low for idle? when i bought mine that what it was set to just havent given much though to it

            Comment


              #7
              maybe a higher octane than 89? maybe a 92?

              1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
              Mods:
              DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
              http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

              Comment


                #8
                Year: 98 1.5L LX

                Milage: 80,000

                My problem is also #1. I use 92 octane all the time and my car still dips below idle rpm. It dips below idle rpm for a little bit then settles out. Have more problem with dropping idle when i have the AC on and everytime the compressor kicks on car drops below idle and shakes really bad. I have had the ac comp tested so that isn't the culprit and at first i used 89 octane and thought that was the problem but it still does it even with the higher octane.
                98 Protege LX 5speed
                ACT Street Clutch Kit w/ hd pressure plate
                Custom catback exhaust
                Custom Intake
                Proline 16x7 wheels and hanook ventus lp tires
                Custom Mesh Grill
                Clear Corner Lights
                Custom M3 LED Mirrors
                Corksport Familia Badging from 99 pro
                Custom Flip Flop Trunk
                Arospeed Gt Black Aluminum Wing
                Hose Techniques hosing kit
                Custom Valve Cover
                Ngk IX Plugs/ Ngk Plug wires
                Kenwood KDC-MP528 head unit
                2 Mtx 12'' Subs sealed enclosure Mtx 250W class D amp
                Coming Soon Erebuni Shark Style Kit

                Comment


                  #9
                  yikes, then i guess that pretty much answers my question about using a much higher octane gas.

                  1996 1.5L Mazda Protege DX MTX
                  Mods:
                  DX converted to an LX (F & R seats and All Power), 2" Exhaust from the Catback, EuroReverse Glow Gauges, JDM Clear Side Markers, 17" MB Motoring Rims, K&N air filter 33-2134, All Clear Lenses, Front Strut Bar, MS Sideskirts, JDM Taillights, JDM Turbo Diesel Hood Scoop, OEM Door Visors, and Ducktail.
                  http://www.cardomain.com/id/beetle_orange

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Ok, since i started this thread I might as well let you know about my car.

                    It is a 1998 SE
                    142,000 kms (however the cylinder head was rebuilt at 105,000 kms)
                    I have problem 1 and 2 (as shown in the video clips)

                    Now in regards to problem 2...

                    LoganSS, if you get a chance, if you could please post what the shop did to remedie your misfire in cylinder 4.
                    The reason I ask this, is because I want to know if its a compression related problem. And if it is a compression related problem, if it has to do with burnt valves. Right now, my theorey is that the Z5 engine may have slightly weak valve springs... or may suffer from high rpm valve float... or something in the nature that would cause a valve to consistently burn. I know for a fact "Intruder" has a compression problem in his Z5, he just has not posted yet. So that makes 3 of us so far that has it or has had it. Now the reason I am starting to thing it is a valvetrain related problem, is because last year I burnt a valve on my Z5. Now I do drive the car very hard, and it has been drag raced, solo1 and solo2 raced. I did a full rebuild on the cylinder head, however I did neglect to check valve spring tension. So when the shop was doing the valve job on the car, I have a feeling that they mis-matched valve springs from one valve and put it on another valve. Because 30,000 km's later, I have low compression in cylinder 4. (Last time it was in cylinder 1) Now, I did not do a leakdown test this time to confirm that it is infact a burnt valve, so i must do that still... however I am not burning any oil or coolant, and there are no leaks... so I believe that I am loosing compression through a valve. So what im thinking right now, is that our engines might have some sort of valve train problem, either weak valve springs that at high rpm cause minute valve float.... we're then heating up the springs even more causing them to become even weaker.... until the point where at high rpm the valve ends up heating up so much it burns and doesent seal properly anymore. My engine was totally fine after the first rebuild, but soon as I competed in the solo1 race, I got the misfire back immediately. I did 27 laps of high rpm, wide open throttle, as fast as I can go.... and that caused the misfire to come back, and because of THAT day, i lost compression in my relatively new cylinder head.

                    I want to see if more people are facing this problem too. LoganSS problem happened in cylinder 4, Intruders happened in 4, mine happened in 1, and now its happening again in 4.
                    If this happened to anyone else, please speak up.

                    LoganSS : How hard did you drive your car before you had the problem with cylinder 4? Did you drive nicely or hard???

                    Also, the 1995 Proteges had a recall for bad valve springs, that could potentially break.
                    I know that problem was fixed, but still.... i still have a feeling that something is causing these problems, and that they are not normal wear and tear.


                    In regards to problem 1, which seems to be very common in our cars....

                    First off, it has nothing to do with gasoline octane. Our cars are meant to run on 87 octane if the engine is in OEM form. If timing is changed or certain other modifications are done, then you might need to increase the octane in the gas.

                    Now, something I am noticing about problem 1 is that engine load draws, is increasing the ****ty idle. For example, mine gets worse if i have the rear defroster on, and if im holding the break pedal. Other people are posting here that their's gets worse when their A/C is on and whatnot....

                    Mine is not as severe to the point where the car wants to stall or anything, however its noticable. I know high load draws on the engien will effect idle stability, but it shouldnt effect it this much.

                    The next 2 things I am going to look at in regards to this idle problem is our cars idle air control valve, and our throttle position sensors....
                    I am going to find out what the TPS sensor voltage is going to be at idle, and reset mine to that.... then check

                    Then if that didnt help, take off the TB and clean out the IAT, and see if there are any adjustments for it....

                    I dont have time right now, but I will post after I do it when I do infact do it.
                    If anyone else has time and wants to give those a try, please do so and post your findings.

                    Anyways, thanks for replying everyone
                    I just hate having a problem and not knowing what it is, i'd be really happy if we could figure this **** out.

                    - chris

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hey all, i have a 98 DX, and i've been having problem #1 for about a year or so now. Tomorrow im going to check for the second, just to be safe. It had about 70k miles on it when the idle started being weird, and now that i've been driving it(its at 92k now) its gotten worse, but only at times. sometimes the idle is just extremely rough, but mostly when i'm getting off the highway(normal speeds) the engine just stalls on me while im out of gear, i've just always thrown it in third to get her running again, and never thought anything about it.

                      Mods:
                      JDM Headlights + Corners
                      JDM Tailights
                      1st Gen LX Black Wheels
                      Shaved Side Mouldings
                      Second hand 'High-Flow' Muffler
                      Cone Filter
                      KYB GR-2's + Perf Lowering Springs
                      E-Bay front strut bar
                      Gauge cluster swap w/ Tach + Indiglo gauges
                      40% Tint on side windows, 20% on rear
                      and the best custom 3rd brake light overlay...'ZOOM'

                      Comment


                        #12
                        94 BH protege:

                        Problem One i suffer from.. Not 2.

                        I use 96 OCtane! (I've never heard of 89 etc.. ) p.s i'm from New Zealand.

                        Car is manual..

                        I never really got it looked at coz it's not that bad just slowly dies then boosts back up...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hi guys,
                          I have a 95 dx and I believe I have problem #1 b/c when I stop at the light my car idles roughly. Especially when I have the a/c on.

                          Recently my car has begun to hesistate upon acceleration and at low speeds (0-30 mph). And today she threw a CEL light.

                          I drive mostly on the highway (60-70mph) and rural roads (40-50mph)
                          My car has 160,250 miles on the original motor. She get's regualr maitenance and her timing belt was replaced last year.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Mazda Protege LX 1997.
                            Roughly 76,000 miles (122,000km).

                            I have problem 2. No CEL (it came up before - cyl. 4 misfire), but I never let my RPMs go below 1500, and for some odd reason that prevents the CEL from coming ON. If I start my car, and let it idle rough (at 700 rpm), the CEL will come on right away. Compression in my 4th cylinder is lower than the rest. I hear the "chug chug chug" sound too. I will try to shoot a vid tomorrow.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by pigeon
                              Now I do drive the car very hard ... however I am not burning any oil or coolant, and there are no leaks...
                              - chris
                              Same here.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X