Some quick CA Q's...

[Scott D]

Hey guys. I'm just working some things through in my head. I have a few Q's. My current setup ( 2 eD 13kv2's) tuned to 27 hz off an eD NINe.1 (~1000w @ 2 ohm) totally slams. It sounds great, can get very loud, etc. I am VERY happy with my subwoofer setup.

Now, my front stage leaves a little bit to be desired. I've got 4 Alpine 5.25" coaxials in the stock locations. They are very loud of my stock deck (volume isn't the reason why I'd be upgrading, SQ is) which is a Panasonic CQ-C8400U. The midbass sucks, but the mids/highs sound great. I'd like to get the tweets up higher, so I can actually hear them if someone is sitting next to me (i know bass is omnidirectional, but the highs get cut if there's something like a leg in front of them). I'm going to try deadening the doors, but I'm not exactly sure how to go about that. I'm also contemplating whether or not to add a set of edi 6000 components and a NINe.2 amp. My electrical system is all stock, with 4ga wire running back to the sub amp, and there's barely any dimming.

I'm not too car-electrical savvy, but I'm sure I could do something simple like installing another amp. Would a distrobution block be the best way to take care of this?

Also, would these 2 amps be putting too much strain on a stock alt? I drive a 1994 Protege DX. I believe the stock alt is 65 amps.

My last question... Is it a huge pain in the ass to cut out for 6.5" comps? The stock is 5.25". Would one suggest to just go for a set of 5.25" comps? How would I go about mounting these? Just FYI, I'd keep the set in back for a little bit of rear fill, only running of the deck.

Thanks for your help.

[blue LEDz]

you'd need a distribution block to split up the main power wire. course putting both a nine.1 and a nine.2 on 4 guage is a bit much for the wire. to keep your cost down, you could just add a second power wire. 8 guage would be enough, but i'd use 4 guage, in case you upgrade from the nine.2.

my old '99 protege had an alt that put out 63 amps. the largest system i had in there was around 3,000 watts running off the stock alt. just wire it right and use a good battery.

for the front speaker size, you could probably mount the driver to the door panel itself. do a search, it's been discussed a few times.

[jnorion]

Cut out a spacer ring for the front speakers and they'll mount just fine. I have 6.5"s in there now. I used 1/2" plywood for the spacer.

[MazdaRacer]

who much current do those amps draw?

@ 1000watts and running 2 ohm, i'd assume they draw a pretty good amount.

I would suggest a re-wound or aftermarket alternator for true trouble free performance. and of course a good battery.

[MazdaRacer]

oh, and for the 6.5" drivers in the door. Sure that can be done. I posted this in thread just below yours.

I used DEI Studio 6.5" 3 way components. The 6.5" driver is a neo magnet and pretty shallow. With only a 1/4" mounting plate, mine fit just fine. Not sure how that would work on the 94 door panels (bad design by Mazda) but they might just buldge a little, but still attach to the door.

I threw away my stock 90 grilles, in favor of the DEI grilles.

The best thing about these (and possibly other neo magnet drivers) is that they are feather light, i got mine back in 99 or 00 but i was blown away at how lightweight they are and sound GREAT too

i may have some pics, but probably with the door panel on already. I do have pics of where i mounted the 4" mid, but you'll need the 90/91 dash panels with the grille perforations for that.

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12693

[blue LEDz]

who much current do those amps draw?

@ 1000watts and running 2 ohm, i'd assume they draw a pretty good amount.

I would suggest a re-wound or aftermarket alternator for true trouble free performance. and of course a good battery.

130 amps max. fuse rating of 120. the 4 guage can barely handle that by itself.

[Scott D]

So putting a spacer ring in there, and mounting the driver on the ring will allow 6.5" in the stock 5.25" location?

[MazdaRacer]

So putting a spacer ring in there, and mounting the driver on the ring will allow 6.5" in the stock 5.25" location?

yup, i've had a few 6.5's in there and never had to cut a thing but a ring....lol.

[jnorion]

It might make the door panel bulge slightly... it does on mine but I have the DX style panels. Darryl? It fits though, and if you have the bass coming from other speakers there should be no problem. It works just fine for me.

[MazdaRacer]

ya, the panel will budlge slightly, DX or LX.

[Scott D]

Well is it going to give me bad SQ or damage the speaker any way? I'm planning on having a solid, amplified front stage and run the rears off my HU power. So most of the midbass will be coming from the front...

[jnorion]

It won't damage anything but it might buzz a bit because the speaker surround will be touching the plastic panel. Another option is to cut a hole in the plastic panel, screw the panel directly into the spacer ring, and then screw the speaker into the panel, wedging the panel in between the speaker and the ring. Then you can put a grille on the outside that you can pick up at an audio shop for cheap or nothing.

[Scott D]

Hmm... that's a possibility.

I'd really like to use the eDi 6000's + eD NINe.2 amp... It's a $250 package. The 6000s have a mounting depth of 2.8 in, and are 6.5in comps. Would making a spacer work, while having my window roll down all the way?

[jnorion]

Um... I don't remember offhand how deep my speakers are, I'll check.

[jnorion]

Mine are 2.52" according to the box, and they ALMOST cleared without the spacer. I put a 1/2" spacer in and now they bump against the door panel and bulge it just slightly. I think you should be fine. It can't hurt to try anyway.