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    Speaker Power

    I'm finally looking to try and at least get my system moving along right now. I'm at a stage where I have a lot of what I wanted in, in, but still would like to get some deading material, and a amp for the speakers, then when I'm ready a more powerful sub. So right now I have an alpine cda-9811, It's pwerful, but gets slight distorted probly from being underpowered. Then I have RF Fanatic X 6" comps up front, those will do 75W RMS, and RF 6x9 in the back which will handel the same amount. I'm guessing something around there should keep the speakers content and pumping. The issue I have right now is not spending way too much money on this system I can imagine that it will at least involve upgrading the power wires to 4awg to the trunk then spilt it off into 2 4awg wires, so that's like 50-80 for a complete kit from RF or something like that, then the amp, I'm looking to see if I can get something decent for under 150, if possible, I might be willing to spend more, all depends on how the amp stands up for it self.

    Some amps I'm looking at at thezeb.com right now:
    Jensen JXP680 - which is a bit more 80W RMS - $129
    Lightning Audio B400.4 70W RMS, $139
    Power Acoustik Gothic QV4-600 or 800 the 70 or 85 W RmS models -$129 or $159
    Power Acoustik Power PA4-600 or 800 same watage as the one above, except $10 cheaper for both (I'm guessing the gothic just looks better)
    Something from profile, either the clarus or california -75 W RMS each -119-129

    That's all I came up with for now, all are relatively cheap and look decent on paper, if anyone has any suggestions on this, I would appreciate it.

    #2
    I just got a Rockford 301x amp, brand new, on ebay for $142 shipped to my house, and that should be fine for your needs. They are on there all the time, and around the same price. Just search for 301x.
    2000 DX, Blue
    Eibach Pro-Kit, MSP Struts, 16" Kosei's on Honkook Ventus HR-II's(205-45-16), MSP Exhaust, Injen CAI, MSP Strut Tower Bar, NGK Wires
    2 JL Audio 10w3-d4's in a sealed box, Rockford 500s amp, 2 6x9 Pioneer Premier 4-ways, 2 6x8 Kenwood Excelon 3-ways, Rockford 301x amp, Pioneer Premier DEH-P650, Dynamat in some fun places.....

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      #3
      My recommendations to you are:

      US Acoustics USX-4065 for $129.99. These amps get good reviews and they provide their power rating at 12.9V unlike some ther companies.
      KnuKonceptz.com 4ga/4ch amp install kit for $36 plus shipping (maybe $6). They provide very good wire and accessories and possibly the best for the price.

      This would be an excellent setup. And BTW, the spending never ends!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Rider69
        My recommendations to you are:

        US Acoustics USX-4065 for $129.99. These amps get good reviews and they provide their power rating at 12.9V unlike some ther companies.
        KnuKonceptz.com 4ga/4ch amp install kit for $36 plus shipping (maybe $6). They provide very good wire and accessories and possibly the best for the price.

        This would be an excellent setup. And BTW, the spending never ends!
        Missed that one, and yeah that looks like a better deal, and the amp looks nice too, plus 36 for a interconnect is pretty damn good, just and a distribution block and I'll b be good.

        And yeah, the spending never stops, after this I'm need to do some engine work, and then I will go for a bigger and badder (how else would I say this) sub, the basslink is fine, but could use some more punch, that will probly become evident with the 4ch amp. It's all worth it, I like it loud.

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          #5
          One other question for you guys.

          If I already have a sub (a self powered one, the infinity BassLink which says it pumps 200WRMS, kinda doubtful on that one, but hey it was cheap and good enough for now at least) and it's kinda making the lights dim, even though it's technicly a class d amp on it, then adding that us accustics amp to the package how badly would that increase power drain and how nescessary would a cap and/or battery upgrade become?

          I drive on the highway almost all the time, so the RPMs stay high, and there is no dimming in that situation, only then the engine is idle the rpms flux a bit and the interior lights dim, exterior only slightly.

          Thanks

          Comment


            #6
            check the grounding on your amp. did you scrape/sand off the paint to where it is grounded too? the max current draw, and i mean max based on calculating that the amp is only 55% efficient, is only 25 amps, which your alt should be able to keep up with, without any problem. that, or the newer alts are really that bad i would highly recomend getting a better battery, if you are still using your stock one. with such a small amount of power, you might notice a difference in the dimming with a 1 farad cap, but i don't see the point to them

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              #7
              Well, the paint is completly cleared off where the screw attaches to the chasis at, around the ring though there is still some paint left, I imagined that what the drill bit and self taping screw took off would be enough for the ground connection. But I have to say that since the regular oring shped crimp connector came off when the sub did a 180 in my trunk I bough a aluminum screw terminal from home depot and the dimming kinda went away, the engin revs at least stay up now, but the interior lights(the overhead ones) dim if the car is idealing and their on, and it's noticable, otherwise driving it's fine. BTW, it can't possibly be drawing 25amps of power considering the fuse on my sub is 20amps, 25 would kinda kill it.

              The question I'm having right now I guess is if adding another amp, the US Acustics one would kill my alternator completely or if it will be fine with it. The fuse rating on that thing is 35 amps, so if you combine the two together you would come up with something like 55amps max draw, again I'm mostly a new in this so I'm guessing and have no clue what the alternator can handel before it stops charging the battery and powering anything but the audio system.

              And I don't think I have that much of a newer alternator, I'm drving the 98 Pro.

              BTW, I need it loud too so I can drown out the noise from the heat shield, as I haven't had anytime or a place to jack the car up to remove that thing. recently it started rattaling like it was possesed, so I'm probly will need to get it off once I get a chance or some decent jacks that can actually raise it to a workable height.

              BTW Blue,
              I love your sig, that cat is awsome.

              Comment


                #8
                yeah, i figured the amp wouldn't need 25 amps, but i was calculating worst case scenario 20 amps isn't much at all. i've had anywhere from 300-3000 watts running through my car on my stock alternator since day 3 of owning it so i wouldn't be too worried about adding another amp besides, the USX-4065 needs 35 amps, if you were to run it at 2 ohm per channel, or bridge it to 160x2. if you only run it at 4 ohm per channel, and don't bridge it, you'll be putting out 65x4 = 260 watts, as apposed to 320. the amp is about 70% efficient, which is very good, so at 4 ohm, 4 channel, it'll be sucking down about 29 amps. and that's not as continuous of a draw, since it won't be going to a sub you might notice a small difference, but lights dimming is not a sign of problems, other than the alternator isn't big enough have you upgraded your battery, or still have your stock one? if you haven't, i'd recomend doing that.

                yeah, i love my pussy:p:

                Comment


                  #9
                  I'm still on a stock battery, or at least what I think is a stock battery. Basicly it's the battery that was there when I bought the car used, so I have no clue whether it's stock or not, my guess is it is. Any recomendations for a relatively inexpensive battery that would actually give me an improvment over stock?

                  I don't know, these amppareage values seem reather high, at least compared to what my circuit breaker in the house is less per room then what the fuse on a single amp is, kinda scary if I think about it. And yes I know I E=IR, so it makes sense, but it's still scary to think about the current draw in a car sound system.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    right now i'm using an Everstart starting marine battery. the model # is 24MS-6, and it's $42.93 at walmart, plus like a $3 core charge. it's got 500 CCA's, and 650 cranking amps at 32 degrees. i'm using it till i decide between the stinger power2 db, or a group 31 from optima

                    take what you know about house amperages and what not, and forget about it when dealing with a car figure my sub amp alone will suck down over 150 amps and there are amps out there that need 900+ amps

                    Comment


                      #11
                      So yeah, I'm thinking of doing a slight game change right now.

                      I'm really wanting to get rid of the BassLink in my car right now, it makes the car body vibrate, but you can barly feel the hits, plus when I push up the volume, it's sounds like ass. So yeah, I was happy with it for a while, but now it's time to ditch it, especially since I have a 60ft roll off eDead making it's way over here very soon (order placed, it's on backorder till the end of this week, damn ). So I'm guessing the speaker amp can wait a little while till I get another paycheck, and I can get rid of the basslink on ebay (and since I bought it with an employ discount, I won't be loosing money anyway). So once the eDead gets here, my doors are getting a nice layer or two they so deserve, my back deck probly will get a coat, the trunk lid to make it a bit more stable. I know I won't be able to get rid of all the vibrations, but at volumes I listen to music at, most of them are drowned(SP?) our by the music anyway, so it's not that big of a deal, only the doors are a bitch. So I'll focus on the bass till then.

                      Right now I imagine putting in a nice 8 or 10 in a nice vented box. I really took a liking to the 8inch eDesign A series, it's like $145 right now, and it looks like it could pound, even more so then their 10" K series. The 8" would also need a smaller box, so it seems like the perfect sub. I don't mind the price at all. Then to drive that baby, I'm thinking a nice Rockfor Fosgate Punch 301M amp 300WRms at 2ohm and 900W Max, I don't know how efficeint it would be, but it only requires a 30ohm fuse, so it doesn't draw much more current then the piece of **** in my car right now, and I can get it fro 119 or so, so it's not too bad of a deal.

                      Any ideas or comments on this setup, if not I'm probly going to get that setup going, get the vented box made from eD design As for as I can remember hearing, a vented box is sopoused to give you more hit? If not please let me know, as the sealed box for the 8" A series sub is like .25cf, which is really small. (BTW if I make the vented box, is there a cheap way to put in the duckts so their percetly stright, using pins or someting, or just screw them in from the outside, with no tracks or anything?)

                      Thanks, and I will get an amp for the speakers eventually, but for now I feel this is the bigger project, and yes Blue, I will buy a new battery too, I can see mine is already loosing charge, since after driving on the highway for over an hour, there is no dimming whatsoever, but let it sit overnight, and the dimming gets bad.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        with the K10, you'll need at least a .75 cu ft box, IMO. the A8 would need a .5 cu ft, for a huge improvement in low end bass with 300 watts each, the 10 would be about 2 dB's louder across the board above 35 hz. lol, i just looked at their site, and they recomend a .5 cu ft ported box, tuned to 30 hz. i modeled a .5 cu ft box tuned to 31 if you have the space, build the box they have on their website. if not, then go with the .5 cu ft, but the vent can be .5"x9" and 25" long

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Nice guess, but I'm still kinda confused, which one did you recomend? I'm guessing by the size of the box you recomended the A8. But you said the K10 would be 2db louder, hmm, how much is 2db?

                          I have plenty of room for either box, it's only like 23inches long and like 11 inches in, so it's not so bad.

                          I called them up today to get a commarison on both subs though and they basicly told me they would be about the same since the A8 has a bigger excursion then the K10, so they are equivelent, A8 would have better sound quality, or at least that's what they told me, and the reason is it is their top line and uses the same components as all other A's. So I'm going to get that sub ordered soon, unless I missunderstood what blue was saying and he really ment that I should get the K10 and stick it in a .5cu ft seald box?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            BTW, If I got either one of the subs, which amp:
                            US Acoustics USX600D , or
                            Rockfor Fosgate Power 351M

                            their 375WRMS and 350WRMS respectivly, a little over the recomended wattage for the ported box for the A8, but within the range of the sealed, and the K10 for both boxes, so expert advice, please. I'm still sorta a noob when it comes to the power that a sub can handel. and if that s too much, then what would be a good decent, sub in the price range of those, like maybe the Rockford Fosgate Punch 301M (300WRMS, and less advanced then the 351M, also less current draw, 30AMp fuse)

                            But I'm also supprised the the US Acoustic one only has a 20amp fuse while the RF goes al the way up to 40amp fuse, and it's less powerfull, hmm, makes you think about the real power rating on those amps.

                            Or with that power should I just go for the K10, as those amps seem to go overboard when it comes to the A8, especially in a sealed box
                            Last edited by pcguy2k1; 10-22-2003, 04:03 PM.

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                              #15
                              if space is your priority, then definitely go with the A8 it will sound a bit better mainly at the higher freq's plus you'll get the "holy ****" factor in that it's just one 8 that's why i love having a single 10:p: 2 dB louder is a bit of a difference, but it's nothing huge, till you get in the 150 dB range either of the amps will be fine. i used one of the USX600D amps on my friend's O12, and it's sweet

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