if i grab a stock actuator from another pro or escort will it bolt right into my drivers side door so i can have keyless entry with my alarm?
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Originally posted by whistlerthis is for the american protege, but should be the same for you.
Where did you get these diagrams?? I need some to do the power door,miror comvertion?1. 1990 Mazda 323 SE sedan , B3 8v R.I.P
2. 1992 Mazda 323 GT hatch , B3 16v
3. 2005 Kia Picanto EX , 1.0 12v
4. 2007 Mazda 3 TC sedan , Z6 16v
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Edwin, you noob, there is no such thing as a driver doorlock actuator for the 1st gen Protege. Canada may be an exception with the 95 BG's, but in the US, no. Unless your talking about taking one out of another door....as that, i'm not sure about.
Escorts, i'm not sure about either, but most EGTs did not have power door locks. So, you may be able to use a 95 or 96 Escort 4dr actuator, as i *think* they had a true power doorlock system.
the 1st gen Protege has a stupid semi-central system, the physical button/rod you push on, just activates a switch to feed the doorlock relay which feeds the other 3 doors.
An aftermarket actuator is only like $15 retail.
that diagram is from the EFSM, a handy dandy manual to have indeed hard to find, but ebay is where i found mine.
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Originally posted by MazdaRacerthe 1st gen Protege has a stupid semi-central system, the physical button/rod you push on, just activates a switch to feed the doorlock relay which feeds the other 3 doors.
An aftermarket actuator is only like $15 retail.
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I am not true to the OEM game at all... I want power locks and that's all I care about. Honestly I would be happy to have something a little more unique. What's so difficult to install? I was looking at some on ebay and all the aftermarket ones are two wires (that I saw anyway) so I could probably just run speaker wire through the door grommet, which I want to do anyway for my speakers.
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the hard part (which really isn't all *that* hard) is bending the rods so they (A) have a linear flow (B) do not bind (C) do not stress the motor and (D) aviod as best you can NOT to mount the motor at the bottom of the door where water can get to it. Most are sealed for just this, some better than others but why tempt it.
sure, 14awg speaker wire would be best to use. It can be a bit of a bitch to get through the plastic connectors in the front door boots tho.
Yes, some are 2 wire and some are 5 wire. The 2 wire is what you'll want. Remember, you'll also need 2 relays and need a switch and/or an alarm to control them.
In fact, depending on when you plan to do this, i might be able to snap a few pics of an Accord i'll be doing next week. Atleast it will give you a good idea on how to do it.
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Originally posted by MazdaRacerthe hard part (which really isn't all *that* hard) is bending the rods so they (A) have a linear flow (B) do not bind (C) do not stress the motor and (D) aviod as best you can NOT to mount the motor at the bottom of the door where water can get to it. Most are sealed for just this, some better than others but why tempt it.
sure, 14awg speaker wire would be best to use. It can be a bit of a bitch to get through the plastic connectors in the front door boots tho.
Yes, some are 2 wire and some are 5 wire. The 2 wire is what you'll want. Remember, you'll also need 2 relays and need a switch and/or an alarm to control them.
In fact, depending on when you plan to do this, i might be able to snap a few pics of an Accord i'll be doing next week. Atleast it will give you a good idea on how to do it.
Also, all the universal fit ones I found on ebay range from $1 to $4 apiece... why so cheap and is it even worth it?
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