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    LED Bulbs

    ok, i have a few questions about LED's that someone might be able to help me with. In anticipation of JDM tailights, i bought the LED replacement bulbs to make sure they are all white/clear when not illuminated, and when i turned on my signal, it was like i had hyperblinkers, but all i did was replace the bulb. I'm not complaining at all, since i wanted to get a hyperblinker relay since my group of friends had them, and thats our 'trademark' in town. just wondering if anyone knew why putting in an LED bulb changed this?
    Also i was wondering how difficult it is to install individuel LED's into my dash, i want to change the color of my needles since i have reverse glow and i was just curious if it was a difficult procedure

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    #2
    Working with LEDs is easy, provided you do some research on them. As far as placing LEDs in the cluster, it would pretty impossible. I took apart my old DX cluster with out a tach, and that pretty much explained it all to me. Our cluster illuminated by two bulbs with green boots on them to add the shade of green. Fromt those two bulbs there are peices of plastic, called light tunnels, that spread the light to the gauge faces and needles. Since both the faces and needles are lighted by the same source, its impossible to change the color of the needle. The bottom suface of the needle is painted white, so no matter what color you set in place, it will always brighten by the reflection of white paint on the bottom of the needle. Also, the needles are VERY hard to take off, and impossible to put back on in the right place. Lastly, the plastic plate on which all the graphics are etched out is made out of a green plastic, so no matter what light you shine through, it will have to overpower the green shading. I have my cluster apart at work, and if you want I will show some pics. I did find out something cool about our cluster. On the PCB of the cluster there is an array of place holders for the lighting of what position the transmission is in (AT only). Unfrotunately, the graphics on the faceplate are not etched out, so even if some sort of light source is placed under, it will not go through. The only thing I thought of adding in there would be LEDs in place of all other lights, turn signal, CEL, door ajar, etc. But those functions are not lit up for most of the time of driving, so it would be just a waste of time for me.
    Last edited by turbonium959; 05-01-2005, 02:23 PM.
    "Probable impossibilities are to be preferred to improbable possibilities."

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by JZProwler
      ok, i have a few questions about LED's that someone might be able to help me with. In anticipation of JDM tailights, i bought the LED replacement bulbs to make sure they are all white/clear when not illuminated, and when i turned on my signal, it was like i had hyperblinkers, but all i did was replace the bulb. I'm not complaining at all, since i wanted to get a hyperblinker relay since my group of friends had them, and thats our 'trademark' in town. just wondering if anyone knew why putting in an LED bulb changed this?
      Also i was wondering how difficult it is to install individuel LED's into my dash, i want to change the color of my needles since i have reverse glow and i was just curious if it was a difficult procedure
      well you know how one key feature of LED's is their low current draw?

      what happens is that because of the LED's low consumption, it actually simulates having a BLOWN bulb
      if you've noticed, if you ever blow a signal bulb whatever is not blown flashes really fast

      same thing here
      no harm done though with it flashing fast

      personally it would irritate the **** out of me, so if you want buy this resistor and wire it inline with the signal wire
      it'll add resistance and simulate an incandescant bulb



      look for the 'load resistor kit' its about half way down the page

      Comment


        #4
        could be the fact that the rear turn signal is supposed to be a 3497. even regular bulbs will blink differently if you put in an 1157. I don't know what number you're using, but I've looked for upgrades for the 3497 and couldn't find anything other than stock
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          #5
          a 1157 should be fine in the rear according to the following chart
          Last edited by pigeon; 05-01-2005, 07:28 PM.

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            #6
            ..
            Attached Files

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              #7
              ok, my tempo acted really screwey with the wrong non-led bulb though. I'm sure the resistor you mentioned would solve the problem though
              Please sponsor me for the American diabetes association Tour de Cure.
              http://main.diabetes.org/site/TR?pg=...383&px=3361088
              together, we can find a cure for Diabetes!!!!

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                #8
                Thanks guys...now i know about the low resitance benefit of LED's...i really don't know much about them...but i plan on doing alot of research just out of personal interest. that also explains why my hazards are still regular speed, the front corners are regular...if i replace those for some stupid reason, would the lights speed up even more?
                also, thanks for your input on the gauges, and i've looked inside my cluster a few times..i actually have two in my room right now, one my stock DX cluster, and another LX auto with Tach..i wasnt aware that the green tint on the guages themselves affected the needles though...from what i see, the base of the needle, near where it goes into the gauge itself, is clear and right near that tunnel your talking about...i figured if i could find a way to put an LED at the base of this tunnel for each needle, i could possibly get a different color...i have reverse glow gauges, so it doesnt matter about the faces anyway.
                Last edited by JZProwler; 05-02-2005, 08:38 AM.

                Mods:
                JDM Headlights + Corners
                JDM Tailights
                1st Gen LX Black Wheels
                Shaved Side Mouldings
                Second hand 'High-Flow' Muffler
                Cone Filter
                KYB GR-2's + Perf Lowering Springs
                E-Bay front strut bar
                Gauge cluster swap w/ Tach + Indiglo gauges
                40% Tint on side windows, 20% on rear
                and the best custom 3rd brake light overlay...'ZOOM'

                Comment


                  #9
                  aleksey helped you out with the gauges, i helped out with the leds

                  im not for sure, but im pretty sure the lights would speed up even more if the front had LED's

                  other benefits of LEDs is that they last super long... and if you put the front one in and change the resistor..... you could put the hazards on and leave em on overnight... and theoretically it could prolly go all night

                  ever see a car on the side of the highway with its hazards barrrely fighting to stay alive cause its been sitting there for a while

                  wouldnt be the case with LEDs... at least not as quick

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have replaced all my instrument cluster lights with LEDs, so it's not impossible. The reason for the hyperblink is an LED doesn't put the same load on the electrical lines, so you need a resistor to simulate the load. This will also keep the LED lifetime, as the "hyperblink" kills the LED fairly quickly.

                    I have also changed out every bulb in my car with LEDs, except the headlights, of course. Those are Osram Silver Stars.

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                      #11
                      haha, im stupid sometimes, my apologies. I tried pulling out the front bulb this morning, but clearance was pretty much non-existant, should i take the housing out too? i know its clipped in along with the bolt on the headlight, is there anything else?
                      Also, the fast blinking will cause the LED to burn out quicker, how quickly would this occur?
                      glyph, that is some awsome work you've done, must've taken alot. have you gotten the needles to get a different color? the 3rd gen cluster doesn't look any different from the second gen one, at least aesthetically (sp?) I have my stock DX cluster and my LX one with broken gas and temp, if your interested i'd be willing to send one to you if you want to compare it or mess around with that...i have no use for them. Are the LED's in your reverse lights and lisence plate lights blue, or are they just a really bright white.

                      Mods:
                      JDM Headlights + Corners
                      JDM Tailights
                      1st Gen LX Black Wheels
                      Shaved Side Mouldings
                      Second hand 'High-Flow' Muffler
                      Cone Filter
                      KYB GR-2's + Perf Lowering Springs
                      E-Bay front strut bar
                      Gauge cluster swap w/ Tach + Indiglo gauges
                      40% Tint on side windows, 20% on rear
                      and the best custom 3rd brake light overlay...'ZOOM'

                      Comment


                        #12
                        To take the front signal off, unscrew it from the headlamp's housing first, then just give it a straight pull (parallel with the side of the vehicle) and should come right out.
                        "Probable impossibilities are to be preferred to improbable possibilities."

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by JZProwler
                          haha, im stupid sometimes, my apologies. I tried pulling out the front bulb this morning, but clearance was pretty much non-existant, should i take the housing out too? i know its clipped in along with the bolt on the headlight, is there anything else?
                          Also, the fast blinking will cause the LED to burn out quicker, how quickly would this occur?
                          glyph, that is some awsome work you've done, must've taken alot. have you gotten the needles to get a different color? the 3rd gen cluster doesn't look any different from the second gen one, at least aesthetically (sp?) I have my stock DX cluster and my LX one with broken gas and temp, if your interested i'd be willing to send one to you if you want to compare it or mess around with that...i have no use for them. Are the LED's in your reverse lights and lisence plate lights blue, or are they just a really bright white.
                          The LEDs will burn out in half the normal time (still a long time, though) according to what I've read.

                          Thanks. I just sanded the needles to remove the orange paint. That turns them a whitish blue with the lights on.

                          There are some differences among the third gen clusters, actually. I'll be happy to take them off your hands. I'll pay for shipping, too.

                          The lights in the back are super-white. Camera makes them look more blue than they really are.
                          My MAM SS Kit Install Thread | Gauge Customization kit - LEDs, icons, more! Sample:

                          Replacement Stainless Steel Hex Screws for your AWR swaybar! now 19mm AND 21.5mm!

                          99 ES 1.8 | Highlight Silver Metallic | shaved mouldings | DaveB's Brushed Gauge Rings | Llumar Tint charcoal 35 side, 20 rear; smoked mirror 18 moonroof | clear corners
                          JVC deck w/ Infinity Reference 5x7s and 6x9s, XM Radio via Custom Mount Delphi SkyFi | Rage Vigors 17x7 metal | Potenza RE750 215/40 rubber | Espilir springs
                          AWR 21.5mm Sway Bar w/adjustable endlinks & Trailing Links & Front/Rear Engine Mounts | Custom Fiberglass hood from Maz1.8T | 626 Wiper Stalk

                          C-17 Pilot--Jonathan--ProTuner

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by glyph
                            The LEDs will burn out in half the normal time (still a long time, though) according to what I've read.

                            Thanks. I just sanded the needles to remove the orange paint. That turns them a whitish blue with the lights on.

                            There are some differences among the third gen clusters, actually. I'll be happy to take them off your hands. I'll pay for shipping, too.

                            The lights in the back are super-white. Camera makes them look more blue than they really are.
                            there might be a small amount of people interested in modified clusters for 2nd gens if you could pull off a nice clean neat job

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                              #15
                              i'd love to make the needles in my cluster glow red , i'd deffinantly be interested

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