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The science of cylinder honing

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    The science of cylinder honing

    OK dudes,

    I'm sorry but I couldn't decide on a better section for this. Since it's related to my swap I am posting it here.

    I have to hone the cylinders of my BP, and the local machine shop is charging me $108 for that. But I'm cheap and I want to do it myself to save some cash.

    I was wondering if anyone has done it and can share some insight. I'm looking for something like a guideline.

    I rented a honing tool from Autozone (it's never been used before), and I have a power drill. I also have "Honing Oil". The only thing I don't have is the knowledge of performing the honing.

    Help??




    #2
    Basically, this is what I have to work with:



    Does anyone have anything to add to the above instructions?

    Comment


      #3
      subscribing to this post....i'd like to know how to do it myself....i'll probably still have a shp do mine, but it would be nice to know and to practice on a spare block
      1997 U-13 Nissan Altima

      Comment


        #4
        As already stated, it's undoubtedly better to have a machine shop do the job, but if you're absolutely determined to do it yourself, or if it's a process you'd like to learn, check out the following reference:
        Machinery's Handbook, 26th Edition, by Oberg, Jones, Horton and Ryffell, section on Honing Process, pages 1196-1199

        You will find information on amount and rate of stock removal, a formula for rotative speeds, the proper abrasive stones to use for honing (silicon-carbide for cast iron) and other related information. However, after reviewing this section in my handbook, I've concluded that I wouldn't attempt this job unless I were an experienced machinist.

        In any case, good luck.
        Last edited by goldstar; 06-05-2005, 11:24 AM.
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          #5
          hahaha. ^^^ all that teknikal stuff is why the machine shop gonna do mine. its gonna suck having to get 6 cylnders done though...
          1997 U-13 Nissan Altima

          Comment


            #6
            good luck man...
            The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

            Comment


              #7
              just think of the honing tool as your penis and the cylinder as a vagina.... yeaaaaaaa you got it.

              Comment


                #8
                OK man. I returned the POS hone and the honing oil, and I went back to the machine shop to get the honing done there.

                The guy at the parts counter was pulling figures out of his ass when he gave me a quote last week. The guy at the machine shop said that the whole thing is going to cost me about $80. $30-something for the honing and $45 for a hot tank. They actually tank it twice - before they hone it and after.

                Last week I thought I was gonna have to pay $108 for the honing and $45 for a hot tank, and it seemed a lot. But at $80 it's not a bad deal at all. I'm glad it worked out that way.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Intruder
                  OK man. I returned the POS hone and the honing oil, and I went back to the machine shop to get the honing done there.

                  The guy at the parts counter was pulling figures out of his ass when he gave me a quote last week. The guy at the machine shop said that the whole thing is going to cost me about $80. $30-something for the honing and $45 for a hot tank. They actually tank it twice - before they hone it and after.

                  Last week I thought I was gonna have to pay $108 for the honing and $45 for a hot tank, and it seemed a lot. But at $80 it's not a bad deal at all. I'm glad it worked out that way.
                  glad it worked out to be so cheap for ya d00d.
                  The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I was planning on it. I've had the paint for a while. Will one spray can be enough?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by TheMAN

                      yup, thats wthe type we use at work, we arnt a machine shop, but when we do some of the cheaper rebuilds, we use those type of tools to hone it some.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Honing is easy... basically all you need to do is de-glaze the cylinder walls and possibly remove some minor scoring.
                        using the ball type stones, all you need to do is hold the drill straight, and spin it slowly enough so that when combined with a steady up and down motion you are left with a 60 degree crosshatch ("X" pattern of light scratches seen on the cylinder wall after honing) keeping drill RPM's down also helps to eliminate "hopping" when using the 3 stone type hone, which can dammage your bore...
                        when the walls look "hazed" your done!
                        Don't spinn the drill to fast or the angle of your crosshatch will be to "flat" or "horizontal".
                        Make sure to remove your oil squiters so they don't get dammaged, and its also good to cover or remove the crank.
                        Wash your block out with warm soapy water when done to remove abrasive residue.
                        '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
                        Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

                        '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

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                        Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by TheMAN
                          using water to wash engine parts is the last thing you want to do... it's easy to **** up the honing process if you're DIYing.... wrong speed and not straight motion can **** **** up... and since you're using a handheld drill and not an actual bench honing machine, you'll almost certainly not get it done evenly on all the cylinders

                          my point is, it's more trouble than it's worth... getting it done by a machine shop is the best way... being a cheap bastard causes problems sometimes.....
                          I washed mine out with carb cleaner, blue shop towels, and new oil... but the Manual says to use warm soapy water... go figgure.
                          and in most cases, as long as there is no excessive damage, you need not hone more than to de-glaze. So if you are at least somewhat mecanically inclined, and your not a complete ass-clown, it really isn't too difficult to do a good even job.
                          my machinist would have done it for 20$ but since I have done it before, I just did it myself. Car has been running AWSOME since the re-build!!!

                          So basically it can be done right at home, but for most it will be easier to have it done by a professional
                          '91 Mazda Protege GT/ Completely re-built engine w/.020 head shave, intake/exhaust P&P & 3 angle valve job, 2.25 full custom exhaust, RX-7 AFM, K&N Cone, 18* Timing advance, exhintake cam mod w/Fly'n Miata adjustables, Custom short shifter, CenterForce clutch, lightened flywheel, HAWK pads on all 4, Motegi Racing 8 spoke 16"s w/205/45/ZR16 rubber, VentShade window visors, lower lip spoiler, 4" driving lights w/halo's. MX-3 center console & Black carpet swap w/2 layers dynomat type insulation.
                          Soon to come... Garret T25 turbo, DSM injectors, GTX ecu (Needed) SAFC (Needed) FMIC (Needed)

                          '91 Toyota Soarer GT-TL/ Stock 1JZ-GTE, K&N drop in filter, Gewalt Evolution deep dish 17"s, Nardi steering wheel

                          sigpic

                          Do not be conformed to this world, but be transformed by the renewing of your mind!

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