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To bleed the line you need 2 people ... just like for brakes. One person will pump the pedal while the other person will be bleeding off the clutch cylinder which is located at the front of the tranny - it's right across from the radiator. It is very much like a brake bleeding job. It took about 20 mins of pumping for me. Good luck and I can't wait to hear how it turns out in the end.
Is all your piping already done?
Does your compressor inlet pipe (off the VAF) almost touch the rad fan? I have that problem.
To bleed the line you need 2 people ... just like for brakes. One person will pump the pedal while the other person will be bleeding off the clutch cylinder which is located at the front of the tranny - it's right across from the radiator. It is very much like a brake bleeding job. It took about 20 mins of pumping for me. Good luck and I can't wait to hear how it turns out in the end.
Is all your piping already done?
Does your compressor inlet pipe (off the VAF) almost touch the rad fan? I have that problem.
Thanks man. The piping gets done monday and then its to the dyno for tuning. The intake pipe does actually touch the fan. Not the actual blades but the motor. Another problem is that the tube coming off the intake to the throttle body kinks because its so tight of a bend. Im going to have to get a brass elbow or something to keep it from kinking. Can you please explain more about the clutch bleeding?? Ive never done breaks or a clutch. So its one guy in the car pumping while the other loosens the nut on the tranny??? Then once fluid starts coming out tighten the nut back up?
Good luck dude - what are you getting tuned on the dyno - what kind of management are you running?
Essentially ... here is what one site shows about it:
The clutch cylinder like I said is on the tranny, towards the front of the car.
Ask a friend to sit on the driver's seat.
Make sure that the clutch fluid reservoir is full. Fill if necessary.
Let him slowly push (by counting 3-5 seconds) the clutch pedal until it bottoms out.
Let him maintain the clutch pedal on the floor until you give a signal to release it slowly.
Now slowly loosen (screw counter-clockwise) the air bleed valve until a squirt of bubbly fluid emerge.
Re-tighten the air bleed valve.
Give a signal to your friend to release the clutch pedal slowly.
Repeat process (around 5 to 7 times) until you notice that the squirt that is coming from the air bleed valve is clear brake fluid and the clutch pedal feels tight.
Make sure to tighten the air bleed valve.
Fill the clutch fluid reservoir to the maximum level.
Another thing - be careful with that pipe - mine touches too, you will have to put something between them or the fan motor will eat through the plastic pipe
Another thing - be careful with that pipe - mine touches too, you will have to put something between them or the fan motor will eat through the plastic pipe
Good luck dude - what are you getting tuned on the dyno - what kind of management are you running?
Essentially ... here is what one site shows about it:
The clutch cylinder like I said is on the tranny, towards the front of the car.
Ask a friend to sit on the driver's seat.
Make sure that the clutch fluid reservoir is full. Fill if necessary.
Let him slowly push (by counting 3-5 seconds) the clutch pedal until it bottoms out.
Let him maintain the clutch pedal on the floor until you give a signal to release it slowly.
Now slowly loosen (screw counter-clockwise) the air bleed valve until a squirt of bubbly fluid emerge.
Re-tighten the air bleed valve.
Give a signal to your friend to release the clutch pedal slowly.
Repeat process (around 5 to 7 times) until you notice that the squirt that is coming from the air bleed valve is clear brake fluid and the clutch pedal feels tight.
Make sure to tighten the air bleed valve.
Fill the clutch fluid reservoir to the maximum level.
Close the cap of the clutch fluid reservoir.
Im using the SAFC 2 and MSD BTM with stock escort ecu and harness. Ill try bleeding the clutch line today. Also Repainted the valve cover since it got pretty chipped up from install. Next is engine bay
first the supplys you need....NEW brake fluid, a small rubbber tube (i just cut a chunk out of the tube that goes tot eh washer sprayers), a friend, and the lower half of a clear bottle
steps:
1) locate and fill your brake fluid resivoir...make sure to keep refilling it with the NEW brake fluid every 3 or 4 times you open the bleed valve
2) fit the ruber tube over the bleeder valve
3) place the other end of the ruber tube in the lower half of the clear bottle
4) have your friend pump the clutch 3 or 4 times and then hold it on the floor
5) open the bleeder valve, then close(doesnt have to be as tight as you can just snug so it wont leal)
6) repeat steps 4 and 5 untill there are NO more bubbles visible coming out of the ruber tube on the bleeder valve.
7) clean up your mess, tighten up the bleeder valve
NOTE:
the clutch may still feel a bit soggy after bleeding but should stiffen up when you pump it, and even more after the car is started.
also note that if you have an ACT clutch you MUST ajust the clutch for it to disengauge all the way...
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