Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

rear brake job from hell

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    rear brake job from hell

    I figured it would be a 45- 1 hour job. Guess I was wrong. I decided to tackle the passenger side first, so I jacked the **** up took the wheel and everything off and it was all going fine until I tried to take the rotor off.
    The rears have been on my car since I bought it in August 2001 and who knows how long before that and I've put nearly 100,000 KM on the car since then. Talk about seized to the ****in hub. I figured it would be easy, I grabbed a rubber mallet and started hitting. No luck. I grabbed my old man's torch and heated the **** up for a little bit while I had a smoke and then tried hitting the ****. At this point I had no means of transportation to a parts store to get some penetrating oil, and WD-40 was all we had. It didn't work anyways. I decided to get a metal hammer and bash the ****. THree hits into it my rotor broke roughly between the tophat and the disc so I still couldn't even get the rotor part itself off and I still had to get the ****in **** off my hub eventually.
    I tried heating it some more, hitting it, etc..... no luck. I decided to do the other side and come back to this one later so the other side mostly went off without a hitch until it was time to put the **** back together and I waas adjusting the parking brake, about half a turn of teh adjustment wheel, I felt the **** strip, and I thought, ****, nice ****in work idiot. So, I went to the other side, pulled out the adjustment wheel from there and ****ed with the **** until I got it partially adjusted.
    It was dark by this time and I still had to go back and deal with the other side I tried hammering a bit more, but to no avail. Luckily I had a 32mm socket from changing a wheel bearing a while backso I ended up taking the ****in hub right off and bashing the piece of rotor off with a sledge hammer.
    The **** went mostly alright after that, but now I need some ****in adjustment gears for my rear calipers and probably new calipers in the near future.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by midnightblue97; 06-25-2005, 01:15 PM.
    Ryan The middle child is always ignored
    BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
    Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

    #2
    I didn't have a bolt that would fit.
    Ryan The middle child is always ignored
    BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
    Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

    Comment


      #3
      even if it didnt break in half, that rotor was ****ed hard

      is your brakes still making those weird noises you were complaining about?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by pigeon
        even if it didnt break in half, that rotor was ****ed hard

        is your brakes still making those weird noises you were complaining about?
        Nope. NOt doing it anymore



        Originally posted by TheMAN
        and that gave you the excuse not to scavenge a bolt from some other place of your car or go to the store to get it? instead you actually wasted more time and effort in getting that **** off and now ended up having to buy a new rotor
        Yes.
        I bought new rotors an hour before that anyways.
        I was waiting to install the new pads with new rotors.
        Ryan The middle child is always ignored
        BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
        Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

        Comment


          #5
          Here, you or the moderator can save this pic to your desktop and then edit the first post by removing the first picture and replacing with this smaller version of your same picture. I will then remove mine. I don't know why but I felt like helping out there. I know the moderator can do it but it's easier if he/she doesn't have to bother with the resizing part. It may still be a bit too large but not by too much.
          Attached Files
          Last edited by mannydingo; 07-03-2005, 11:23 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            i hope you greased teh caliper sliders....ALWAYS GREASE THOSE ****ERS every time you have the caliper off!
            93' Noble Green MX-ZE (sold )
            02' Graphite Grey WRX Stage 4, 286whp
            05' Pontiac Vibe daily driver, lowered/tinted/rims

            Comment


              #7
              i did. i alaways do because they're always really ****ing sticky when I take the **** off. I usually do it twice a year regardless. Fall and spring.
              Ryan The middle child is always ignored
              BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
              Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

              Comment


                #8
                Random useless fact:
                On the first gens, a bolt that fits in the rotor hat bolt hole and is quite useless is the battery tie-down J-bolt.
                My ClubProtege.com Feedback Thread


                MOSI Race Dynamics
                - Aftermarket Parts Sales & Services MOSI Race Dynamics Feedback Thread

                Comment


                  #9
                  Rotor screws weren't present on the car I was working on.

                  The battery tie-down J-bolt is useless while changing the rotors.
                  My ClubProtege.com Feedback Thread


                  MOSI Race Dynamics
                  - Aftermarket Parts Sales & Services MOSI Race Dynamics Feedback Thread

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X