What caused my braking problem?

[loganss]

I've finally learned how to change my brakes. It's pretty easy and a lot cheaper for me. Silly auto parts stores that want to charge an insane amount and give you crappy parts.

I put the Bendix ceramic pads on there with the oem Beck/Arnley rotor.

As I was taking of the pads they were pretty hot. The guy that was helping me said they were hotter than normal. The outer edge of the rotor alnog with other parts were also pretty rusty. And the metal backing of the pads were bent.

The reason I changed the rotors and pads was before my car would shake when applying the brakes. It would be pretty bad above 40mph. Below 40 it would pulsate to a stop.

Since you guys have probably seen what the pads and rotor looks like after a long time can you tell me what's wrong with mine with the pics below:
Rusty Rotor Shot #1
Rusty Rotor Shot #2
Rusty Rotor Shot #3
Brake Pad Shot #1
Brake Pad Shot #2

After I replaced these the car brakes wonderfully. I'm just curious if it were the pads or rotors.

[95ProLeila]

Why didn't you just wait for them to cool off? Either way, be sure to break them in properly.

[loganss]

Why didn't you just wait for them to cool off? Either way, be sure to break them in properly.

Only time I had to get the guy to show me how it was done was after work. Time was a bit limited. These new pads don't get nearly as hot as those ones. After I drove to work this morning I touched the pad and it was just warm, no where near getting as hot as the other pad.

[Gro Harlem]

wtf? ur wondering why rust forms on mild steel rotors?

Oxygen + water + metal = rust...simple as that. Its perfectly normal. Your new rotors will look like rusty peices of **** in no time flat, just a matter of time.


DID YOU LUBRICATE THE CALIPER SLIDERS WHEN YOU DID THE BRAKES? I hope to christ you did, not doing that is half-assed and retarded. you'll kick urself later when your **** starts braking like azz and shuddering when applying the brakes.

More times when someone complains about their **** "shuddering when i apply the brakes", I see people cry "warped rotors" when its usually the caliper sliders being seized & pads not being applied evenly.

But if you redid the sliders and got those new pads & rotors, ur car should be fine for 50k+ miles

[loganss]

hmmm ... Guess I won't have that guy show me how to do anything anymore. I asked him about that slider thing and if we should do something w/ it and he told me it's fine. Probably what the mechanic also did last time I went to the shop.

Thanks Gro. I'll go back and just lube up those caliper sliders. No biggie.

This is my first time seeing the rotors after road use and yes I'm aware of the basic metal rusts logic. Just don't like assuming that stuff.

[beetle_orange]

is that metal slider the one that sandwiches the brake pads? any special lubricants or regular grease is fine?

[loganss]

is that metal slider the one that sandwiches the brake pads? any special lubricants or regular grease is fine?

I believe that's the one he's talking about. I'm just going to check the manual to see if it needs any special lubricant and if that doesn't work just go into Advance and ask which lubricant would be best.

[goldstar]

A special, high temperature lubricant is required for caliper pins. One such product is Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube. According to Permatex, it's designed for use on pins, sleeves, bushings and pistons.

Happy Motoring!

[95ProLeila]

IIRC there's anti-corrosive stuff you're supposed to use, but I could be wrong.

[loganss]

Man you guys are the best!!! I went to advance and found the Permatex lube.

I asked the employee for the lube and he had no idea what I was talking about. That's "quality" service for ya.

[Rac3rX]

Did the Lub Do the Trick?

I also got a puls when braking, its not noticeable untill I brake hard but anoying as the dash shacks pretty bad. THe side shaking has never had a Hit (23000 kilometers I put on her) I recently changed the brakes (A month ago, at Midas) and the pulse becan soon after. I figured the pads needed time to mate with the rotors (Rotors were not changed) as it squeeked for a few 100 clicks. Well the Squeek is back periodically, it had stopped for about 1000 clicks, and now its back, and the Pulse is still there.

I plan to head out to Midas this week to get it checked out, but what should I expect?

[Rac3rX]

Bump Any Help, If I can go in there talking like I know what Im talking about Im sure it will help.

[Rac3rX]

Bump

[loganss]

After I replaced the pads and rotor (w/o lubing the slinding pins) my pulsation problem was gone. I believe Gro was just stating that it was a bad move of the guy not to have told me to lube the sliding pin because that could've been a cause of the vibration. Because of Gro's advice I just lubed the sliding pins as a form of preventative maintenance.

I'm not sure exactly what my problem was. Maybe it was the sliding pins. From taking them out of the caliper assembly I could've knocked off any material preventing it from having the pads move properly. or maybe my rotors were slightly warped (I can't see it from the pics though). or maybe the pads just sucked. It could be a few things.

I also noticed the pulsation everytime I braked not just when I braked hard. It is odd that the pulsation for me also started after I took it to Monro muffler & brake shop to get the pads n caliper replaced (rotor remained the same).

[pigeon]

Bump Any Help, If I can go in there talking like I know what Im talking about Im sure it will help.

your rotors need to be replaced or turned, and then the pads need to be broken in properly to the newly made friction surface