First of all, there is no way to have an easy detail of your car. This information comes from a bunch of research and applications. I want to give this information out because I want to see ALL Mazda Proteges and Mazda3's kick ass when they are seen on the streets.
-First of all, look for shade to park your car under. Park under a tree, on the side of the house in the early morning or late afternoon, or buy a canopy are examples of shade. You want to avoid waterspots due to the sun, period.
-Within your washbucket, put of tablespoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent. I know, Dawn will strip down waxes. True, but right now, you're detailing your car and this is not a normal wash. Afterwards, I would recommend that you use a high quality car wash liquid. Anyway, dishwashing detergent does a great job in removing contaminants off your car. Also, use two buckets, one with soapy water and the other with plain water. This way, you use the bucket with plain water for rinse water only. You do not want to put dirty water back onto your car. I also use bulk terrycloth towels that you can buy at any car parts store. This is a long process, so prepare to use a whole lot of towels. Buy two sets to make sure. You will probably want to use a multiple spray nozzle as well.
-I start cleaning my car by washing the tire wells and the bottom of the side skirts first (the car skin only). I start off by using the hose with a hard stream to remove as much dirt and oil as possible. Then I scrub them clean. Why the wells and skirts first? They have the a whole lot of dirt on them and you will have a good chance to kick dirt onto your body by not cleaning them first. I feel that it is important to wash off the soap immediately so that you do not get residual soap stuck onto the skin of your car.
-Next step is your tires. I am staying with the lower extremities of the car because I do not want to kick dirt upwards. If you happen to kick dirt upwards, you will remove it when you wash the car later on. I use Wesley's tire cleaner for my rubber tires. You see dirt being removed on contact. I recommend using a brush to help remove dirt off my tires. To me, Wesley's tire cleaner is irritable, so be sure to wear rubber gloves when using this product. Use as directed.
-As far as rims, I've learned that by washing your rims by hand, you can see all the dirt wash away by doing it this way. There are products out there for washing rims. They are fine, but they don't remove everything. Just go the extra step to ensure a great job on your detailing. You may want to wash each tire, one tire at at time. That way, you do not have soap residue.
-Finally, you can wash your car. But dump out all the liquids that you used on your tires, wells and side skirtsbecause this water is very dirty. Now, start again. Use a tablespoon of Dawn liquid detergent in one bucket and fill the other bucket with plain water. With your hose, spray your entire car with a hard stream to remove larger contaminents from eventually scratching your paint. Then, use a spray mode to cover your car with water spots. This leaves a layer of lubrication so that you have less of a chance of scratching your car. At this point, you can start handwashing. I use one towel on each hand to speed up my process. I wash from top to bottom so that the dirt goes downward. I think it is important to do one part at a time to not allow the soap to dry. It is important that you touch every part of your car because if you are to see your car when it is dry, you will see the spots that you missed. This can lead to scratching your car in further steps. Now that you have finished your entire car, do a final rinse by removing the multiple spray nozzle and flow a soft stream of water cascading all over your car. This creates a sheeting action that removes water spots which makes it easier for you to dry your car
-A detailers drying step is my next step in drying my car. I spray a mist of detailers spray while the car is wet. At this point, I pull out my Absorber (a synthetic chamois that I use because it has its own carrying case which keeps the Absorber moist), spread it out as far as I can reach across the top of my car and pull it towards me. This allows the most surface area to be contacted by my Absorber as I dry my car. Squeeze it out and go to another section of your car. Once your car is done, make sure that you open all your doors and dry your door jams. Don't forget other parts such as door handles, mirrors, under your spoiler, your windshield wipers, your grill and so on. If you want to go further, you may want to us canned air to blow out water out of your door handles. After drying your car, go back to the rims and dry them out as well. If you didn't wash your rims well before, you will see a marking of dirt on your drying cloth or Absorber. If your see spots, use the detailers spray and then use a towel or a microfiber cloth to remove them.
-At this point, your car is clean. But, it will get cleaner once you do the next step. This step is the difference between a washed car and a detailed car. It is the...clay bar step. This step is where the most of your effort will take place. But it is worth every bit of it. You can find clay bars at most auto parts stores in the car wash section. I have three rules when using the clay bar. The first rule is - Do not drop the clay bar. The second rule is - Do not drop the clay bar. Third rule is use lots of the manufactures clay bar lubricant, which is basically detailers spray. By dropping the claybar, you will collect a rock or pebble and will scratch the paint off your car. One of my favorite things about the claybar is that it won't scratch your paint is used correctly. Anyway, claybarring is an easy but long process, so be patient and ust follow the instructions. You will notice that you will rub a section off your car and your towel will not slide easliy. Just flip your towel to the dry side while removing clay reminents off your car. This is why I suggested before that you buy plenty of towels. I think the coolest part is this step is seeing what you have removed when you performed this step. Touch your car and you will feel the car being as smooth as it can be. At this point, your car is CLEAN. Rub your car again with a micro cloth to ensure that your car is clean.
-After you have done this, sealing your clean car is the next step. Within the past couple of years, I've noticed that all the car detail manufactures have made synthetic waxes. I can't tell you that I have tried them all but they are awesome. They go by the name Maguiars NXT Generation, Eagle One Nanowax, and Mother's FX synwax just to name a few. Easy on and easy off is what I like so much about them. I used to go through the laborous step of using polish which would mean light strokes, practically brushing my car. Screw that, this takes too damn long. I just use the product as directed and I end up with a car that looks polished and with added protection. I prefer paste over liquid for a longer protection.
I use Mother's Back to Black on my trim. Meguiars PlastX on my headlights, taillights and license plate covers, and Meguiars Endurance Gel on my tires.
I just hope to see a bunch of shiny Protege5's and Mazda3's out there. I dig these cars.
late
SHRED=SHiny+RED
-First of all, look for shade to park your car under. Park under a tree, on the side of the house in the early morning or late afternoon, or buy a canopy are examples of shade. You want to avoid waterspots due to the sun, period.
-Within your washbucket, put of tablespoon of Dawn dishwashing detergent. I know, Dawn will strip down waxes. True, but right now, you're detailing your car and this is not a normal wash. Afterwards, I would recommend that you use a high quality car wash liquid. Anyway, dishwashing detergent does a great job in removing contaminants off your car. Also, use two buckets, one with soapy water and the other with plain water. This way, you use the bucket with plain water for rinse water only. You do not want to put dirty water back onto your car. I also use bulk terrycloth towels that you can buy at any car parts store. This is a long process, so prepare to use a whole lot of towels. Buy two sets to make sure. You will probably want to use a multiple spray nozzle as well.
-I start cleaning my car by washing the tire wells and the bottom of the side skirts first (the car skin only). I start off by using the hose with a hard stream to remove as much dirt and oil as possible. Then I scrub them clean. Why the wells and skirts first? They have the a whole lot of dirt on them and you will have a good chance to kick dirt onto your body by not cleaning them first. I feel that it is important to wash off the soap immediately so that you do not get residual soap stuck onto the skin of your car.
-Next step is your tires. I am staying with the lower extremities of the car because I do not want to kick dirt upwards. If you happen to kick dirt upwards, you will remove it when you wash the car later on. I use Wesley's tire cleaner for my rubber tires. You see dirt being removed on contact. I recommend using a brush to help remove dirt off my tires. To me, Wesley's tire cleaner is irritable, so be sure to wear rubber gloves when using this product. Use as directed.
-As far as rims, I've learned that by washing your rims by hand, you can see all the dirt wash away by doing it this way. There are products out there for washing rims. They are fine, but they don't remove everything. Just go the extra step to ensure a great job on your detailing. You may want to wash each tire, one tire at at time. That way, you do not have soap residue.
-Finally, you can wash your car. But dump out all the liquids that you used on your tires, wells and side skirtsbecause this water is very dirty. Now, start again. Use a tablespoon of Dawn liquid detergent in one bucket and fill the other bucket with plain water. With your hose, spray your entire car with a hard stream to remove larger contaminents from eventually scratching your paint. Then, use a spray mode to cover your car with water spots. This leaves a layer of lubrication so that you have less of a chance of scratching your car. At this point, you can start handwashing. I use one towel on each hand to speed up my process. I wash from top to bottom so that the dirt goes downward. I think it is important to do one part at a time to not allow the soap to dry. It is important that you touch every part of your car because if you are to see your car when it is dry, you will see the spots that you missed. This can lead to scratching your car in further steps. Now that you have finished your entire car, do a final rinse by removing the multiple spray nozzle and flow a soft stream of water cascading all over your car. This creates a sheeting action that removes water spots which makes it easier for you to dry your car
-A detailers drying step is my next step in drying my car. I spray a mist of detailers spray while the car is wet. At this point, I pull out my Absorber (a synthetic chamois that I use because it has its own carrying case which keeps the Absorber moist), spread it out as far as I can reach across the top of my car and pull it towards me. This allows the most surface area to be contacted by my Absorber as I dry my car. Squeeze it out and go to another section of your car. Once your car is done, make sure that you open all your doors and dry your door jams. Don't forget other parts such as door handles, mirrors, under your spoiler, your windshield wipers, your grill and so on. If you want to go further, you may want to us canned air to blow out water out of your door handles. After drying your car, go back to the rims and dry them out as well. If you didn't wash your rims well before, you will see a marking of dirt on your drying cloth or Absorber. If your see spots, use the detailers spray and then use a towel or a microfiber cloth to remove them.
-At this point, your car is clean. But, it will get cleaner once you do the next step. This step is the difference between a washed car and a detailed car. It is the...clay bar step. This step is where the most of your effort will take place. But it is worth every bit of it. You can find clay bars at most auto parts stores in the car wash section. I have three rules when using the clay bar. The first rule is - Do not drop the clay bar. The second rule is - Do not drop the clay bar. Third rule is use lots of the manufactures clay bar lubricant, which is basically detailers spray. By dropping the claybar, you will collect a rock or pebble and will scratch the paint off your car. One of my favorite things about the claybar is that it won't scratch your paint is used correctly. Anyway, claybarring is an easy but long process, so be patient and ust follow the instructions. You will notice that you will rub a section off your car and your towel will not slide easliy. Just flip your towel to the dry side while removing clay reminents off your car. This is why I suggested before that you buy plenty of towels. I think the coolest part is this step is seeing what you have removed when you performed this step. Touch your car and you will feel the car being as smooth as it can be. At this point, your car is CLEAN. Rub your car again with a micro cloth to ensure that your car is clean.
-After you have done this, sealing your clean car is the next step. Within the past couple of years, I've noticed that all the car detail manufactures have made synthetic waxes. I can't tell you that I have tried them all but they are awesome. They go by the name Maguiars NXT Generation, Eagle One Nanowax, and Mother's FX synwax just to name a few. Easy on and easy off is what I like so much about them. I used to go through the laborous step of using polish which would mean light strokes, practically brushing my car. Screw that, this takes too damn long. I just use the product as directed and I end up with a car that looks polished and with added protection. I prefer paste over liquid for a longer protection.
I use Mother's Back to Black on my trim. Meguiars PlastX on my headlights, taillights and license plate covers, and Meguiars Endurance Gel on my tires.
I just hope to see a bunch of shiny Protege5's and Mazda3's out there. I dig these cars.
late
SHRED=SHiny+RED
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