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    struts?

    Hello everyone! I'm new to the whole mazda scene, just got a 97 off my parents for an early graduation present. I have some strut bars, I know how to put the front one on but every tutorial i see shows the rear one in the trunk, but i dunno where to install the rear one on my mazda. Does anyone know?

    #2
    First you need to take off the rear cover inside the passenger compartment, the thing that has the speaker grilles. Then you will see that you have some metal cutting to do before you can install the rear bar. Its nothing that a dremel and a cutting disc can't take care of though.
    Ryan The middle child is always ignored
    BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
    Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

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      #3
      i found them but it seems like a lot to do with a dremel. do i have to remove the whole metal piece? is there an easy way to do it that I haven't figured out?

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        #4
        Ryan The middle child is always ignored
        BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
        Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

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          #5
          Uh guys, I have an idea on installing these bars.

          Most of the cheap strut bars that you can buy will be three piece right? So why not disassemble the bar into three pieces first. Then set the end pieces of the bar in place over the strut mounts. Then just use a holesaw bit on a drill (something like 2" diameter or maybe even smaller) to cut a clean hole where the bar would have to pass to connect to the end pieces.

          I don't know if this can be done because I haven't removed anything from the back of my car yet. I'm just unclear as to why exactly everyone is taking away so much material from an area that actually helps keep things stiff? Is it to insert the end peices of the bar because they can't be inserted any other way? Or does the material only need to be cut just so the bar can pass?
          1998 Mazda BHALP SE - Rain Forest Green Mica

          Pacesetter short shifter ; Depo tails (thanks beetle_orange) ; Custom CAI nearing completion ; CF hood on the way ; Brembo blanks & KVR pads to be inst. (thanks Pigeon) ; Goodridge brake lines to be inst. ;

          Much more to come...

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            #6
            I had to remove a bigger portion just like the other guy on the link because the metal on the end of the bars that you screw down sticks out too far and hits the metal... i got my neighbor to help drill holes and stuff and get everything in...

            never trust streatbeatcustoms.com they sell strut bars for an 88-98 protege... what a joke

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              #7
              Originally posted by Shaun32390
              Most of the cheap strut bars that you can buy will be three piece right? So why not disassemble the bar into three pieces first. Then set the end pieces of the bar in place over the strut mounts. Then just use a holesaw bit on a drill (something like 2" diameter or maybe even smaller) to cut a clean hole where the bar would have to pass to connect to the end pieces.
              Three piece bars for the most part, suck.
              A one piece solid bar is much better, but must be made to exact fit, whereas, a three piece bar is of course, adjustable but that adjustability is more to compensate for the manufacturer wanting to be able to churn out bars that will fit, or almost fit (with a bit if work) several different cars.


              Originally posted by Shaun32390
              I don't know if this can be done because I haven't removed anything from the back of my car yet. I'm just unclear as to why exactly everyone is taking away so much material from an area that actually helps keep things stiff? Is it to insert the end peices of the bar because they can't be inserted any other way? Or does the material only need to be cut just so the bar can pass?
              It needs to be cut to put the **** in, and that metal is rather thin in that area, I wouldn't imagine it provides much structural support. If anything it would probably be there to help with the rear deck not to keep the chassis any stiffer.
              Ryan The middle child is always ignored
              BP powered 97LX Touring Edition
              Vibrant strut tower brace, KVR front brake pads, Tungsram Megalicht H4 headlight bulbs, Phillips Halogen H3 foglight bulbs.... 91 GT rims w/ 195 60 14 Yokohomo Mirada GTX sport

              Comment

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