Couple Post GTX swap issues.

[Foescort]

Everything has been fine but for two wierd problems

1. The engine runs ice cold! If it warm outside the temp gauge will hit mid range but if its cold like it has been lately the temp gauge stays planted at the bottom. This is bad, it means no heat, and the effiecientcy of the engine is ****. Any ideas?

2. In higher gears (normally) around 3K rpm if i accelerate fast it will cut back really bad, almost like the gas just stopped completely. IF i let off and continue to drive, it will be ok. Anyone had this problem?

[ScOrTGtC]

yeah im having the same exact problem with the Guage....

[elscotto80]

Replace the termostat/waterpump, coolant lines.

[Foescort]

Yea, not only is it the gauge but, the whole engine runs cold. IF i turn on the heat in the cab, there is hardly warm air coming out.

[Foescort]

understand the thermostat but, the coolant lines and pump?

[D323]

understand the thermostat but, the coolant lines and pump?

could be clogged

[Lex]

your cutback problem is boost cut. What VAF are you using and how much boost do you run? The spring may be too loose on the VAF or you're running too much boost. Remember that at 3k rpm in a high gear you are loading the engine the most so you are making the most boost. What ECU are you running?

[Maz1.8T]

Your temp problem is the temp sensor under the t-stat housing. The one that is 1 wire only, not the one directly in the t-stat housing.

Why is it? I have an EGT BP in my Mazda and when I swapped the engine the temp was reading WAYY high but the engine seemed normal and didn't boiled.

Happens that the sending unit (sensor) for the gauges is different for the Mazdas and the Ford.

Get the correct one in there and you'll be OK!! But your engine is running OK, it's the gauge that is reading way off.

[Foescort]

your cutback problem is boost cut. What VAF are you using and how much boost do you run? The spring may be too loose on the VAF or you're running too much boost. Remember that at 3k rpm in a high gear you are loading the engine the most so you are making the most boost. What ECU are you running?

Its all stock, stock boost, GTX VAF, bp 55 ecu. everything is stock, even to the intake box.

I am also having trouble with cold starts. I have never had an issue with the motor not wanting to start, yet when it gets to 40 degrees it just wants to flood rather than starting. During the day at about 60 there is NEVER a problem. Also having issues with running way rich during normal use. Maybe cause its trying to warm up? or maybe because i have a high performance fuel pump?

[Lex]

the high flow pump will cause it to run a little richer .... but nothing too extreme.

[Foescort]

All problems solved, loose charge pipe. Still runs a bit cold though.

[Maz1.8T]

All problems solved, loose charge pipe. Still runs a bit cold though.

Did you change your temp sending unit like I said???

[D323]

All problems solved, loose charge pipe. Still runs a bit cold though.

lol, that happens alot to people on here it seems.

[redfox]

in a 7 day period my piping comes apart at the silicone connectors ATLEAST once even with t bolt clamps. its just something you learn to live with....if your thermostat is dead it cannot close, if the thermostat cant close then the water flows freely throught your motor preventing it from warming up. change your thermostat (like $12 at autozone) and you will once again have heat...

[Lex]

I have never had any of my piping blow off although boosted people have always told me about it.

I use t-bolt clamps and pretty stiff silicone couplers (not the flimsy ebay ones)