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    Need help

    OK. I'm all out of ideas. I can't figure out what's wrong with my car.

    The car starts, but stalls immediately afterwards.

    If I give it more gas (partial throttle at start), it will rev up at the start, but die immediately again.

    While the engine is running during that short period of time, it does not respond to throttle input. I can hear the intake trying to suck in air, but, the motor itself does not respond and stalls.

    I changed the coil, the plug wires, I checked all the spark plugs. There were a few iffy looking vaccum hoses, but I plugged them one at a time to check, and everything was the same.

    When I pulled out the spark plugs, they all smelled like fuel, so it seems to be getting fuel.


    These are the last few weeks I have with my car and I want to be able to savour them before winter storage. I can't do that if my car won't run.


    So. What do you guys suspect might be the problem?

    PLEASE HELP.
    Last edited by Bizob; 10-28-2003, 08:15 AM.
    Bob


    www.midnitemekanix.com

    #2
    Anyone?
    Bob


    www.midnitemekanix.com

    Comment


      #3
      To me, it just sounds like a huge vacume leak. If you have timing, fuel and spark and its atleast starts, but wont idle, I see a vacume leak somewhere. Will it run if you keep giving it gas, just not below 1500 RPMs?
      JordyB
      '88 Mazda 323 GTX
      '91 Ford Escort BPT

      Comment


        #4
        Check the plug going to the MAF, make sure its in good. Thats kinda what it sounds like to me.
        2013 Dodge Dart Aero

        Comment


          #5
          Even if I hold the gas to the floor, after the original startup, nothing will keep the engine running. I checked the plug to the MAF, I can see it opening when I press the throttle, and when the engine stops, I can hear it clank shut.

          Someone suggested that it might be the ignition circuit.... That it works when the key is in the strat posotion, but once it goes into the on position, the circuit is no longer closed. I'm going to check that as soon as I'm done school tonight, but that sounds like it might be complicated.

          I'll let you guys know. Any other suggestions or ideas would still be appreciated, thanks.
          Bob


          www.midnitemekanix.com

          Comment


            #6
            Pull a plug wire and put it next to the motor and crank it to see if you are actually getting spark.

            Start with pulling the one that goes from the coil to the distributor.

            Check that the intake hose that goes from the VAF to the throttle body is not broken.

            Do you have access to a different VAF to try swapping it?

            I also assume that you are not seeing any ECU codes, right?

            Comment


              #7
              I think it is your VAF meter. Try this...remove the filter and airbox, and try holding the VAF open while you try to rev it at startup. The car should run and rev like normal.

              if it does run, that means it is definitely your VAF.

              If not, I'd guess your distributor or something like that. But by your description I'm almost convinced its your AFM.
              93' Noble Green MX-ZE (sold )
              02' Graphite Grey WRX Stage 4, 286whp
              05' Pontiac Vibe daily driver, lowered/tinted/rims

              Comment


                #8
                my parts car after trying to revive it did the same thing, never found the solution, but try the VAF swap if you can,
                look at your coil to see if its all cleaned up, clean up the rusty parts (ill try and get a pic for you of what im talking bout)
                sounds dumb but look at your fuses
                check for spark
                check to see if everything is plugged into the bottom of the fuse box inside the engine bay
                No more protege, Mx-3 now...Only known BP powered Mx-3 in Nova Scotia

                Comment


                  #9
                  this was what i was thinking



                  clean up these plugs, and conectors the one closest to the strut tower should be taken off and sanded lightly to remove the battery caused corrosion, the add some dieletric goo to it the reatach it
                  heres a better angle



                  you can see the corrosion on the mounting bracket
                  Last edited by Semtex; 10-27-2003, 08:53 PM.
                  No more protege, Mx-3 now...Only known BP powered Mx-3 in Nova Scotia

                  Comment


                    #10
                    did you pull the timing belt covers and check the timing belt, See if it skipped a few teeth..

                    otherwise, I would go with what Wil said. Kinda makes the most sense to me.
                    photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

                    dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

                    Comment


                      #11
                      It's wierd, the MAF was opening and closing just fine, so this makes no sense to me, but it was the MAF.

                      I took off the U code MAf and put the S code one from the SOHC on it and it works.
                      Is there a performance difference between the U and the S MAF?

                      Last time I had put a cone filter on my first (of 3) S coded MAFs, the mechanic told me the cone filter messed up the MAF.

                      Then When I did my head swap, I left the stock airbox on the U coded MAF for a while. A few weeks after I first installed my cone filter on the U coded MAF, I started getting weird throttle responses sometimes. And now the MAF went bad completely, just like the first S coded one had.

                      Is there any chance these aftermarket cone filters really are messing up my MAFs? I use a filter adapter and everything, so I don't see why it would do so much harm....

                      Thanks for all your help guys, I really appreciate it as always.
                      Bob


                      www.midnitemekanix.com

                      Comment


                        #12
                        u might be getting water/road debris in ur maf maybe? im not sure

                        Comment


                          #13
                          you could possibly have an intermittent short in the wiring, causing the VAF to blow out. It could be the IAT sensor, or just the fact you got 2 ****ty VAFs....If you have an FSM, check the service guide to test the VAF connector.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            At the moment I got both, a 'U' code VAF form a DOHC and a 'B' code VAF from a 2nd gen RX-7 that I am trying to get rid of. If you need one, let me know!
                            -------------------------
                            '91 LX
                            '03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
                            -------------------------

                            Originally posted by pigeon
                            well if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound

                            while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height

                            Comment


                              #15
                              How much do you want for the RX-7 one?

                              I really don't need it now 'cause the car is going into storage in a few days and I'm flat broke, but if you can make me a good deal, I'll get it now rather than pay more later...
                              Bob


                              www.midnitemekanix.com

                              Comment

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