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traitorhound
10-26-2003, 08:55 AM
hey guys,

i recently sold my 2 10in kicker compVR's and one of my jensen amps (didnt' have the same clean sound as i had when i just hada single sub). Now im looking to get rid of my other jensen amp (as i have an amp rack taht had 2 matching amps for my mids and then the subs)

im working on a really tight budget and i was looking at gettting some new power acoustic gothic series amps as they would go with my matching them (i already have a power acoustik 2.4F digi cap and one of their EQ's) so what i plan on doing is getting their 4 channel amp for the mids and highs and then get the same power 2 channel to power a single FUBR 10.
that can all be had for around 250 USD

can someone recommend anything that would be better?

(maybe 5 channel amp or other comparable stuff for the same cost)

im not really particular for the brand (just hate it when peopel bash the jensen (i had to start somewhere)

Ive heard good things about the Lanzar Vibe amps and i liked the sound that my first sub made (10in Visonik (bottom end sub) in .88 sealed box)

As for the sub box i want to eventually build one of those boxes taht hihisilva made a tutorial about (can't wait till that is back up so i can make it available offline) but for now it'll just be a normal run of the mill sealed box


thanks for the help guys,

-rich

blue LEDz
10-26-2003, 09:28 AM
are you saying that for $250 you can get both amps and a fubr sub?:eek: depending on the amps, that's a helluva deal:biggrin: i haven't used any of the PA amps except the class D amps. installed the A1200DB in a friend's car, had an A1700DB powering my old MOFO15, which is now in another friends car, and i'm now using an A3000DB to power my brahma10:biggrin: when it comes down to it, power is power;) there is much debate and arguing about whether there are really SQ oriented amps. when it comes down to it, a watt is a watt, and if the amplification side of an amp changes the sound, then something is truely wrong with the amp:biggrin: between the PA and lanzar amps, both are good amps for the money. post the amps, and prices you are getting on them, and i'll see if my distributor has them in stock, and what the wholesale price is;)

traitorhound
10-26-2003, 09:40 AM
for the sub (i know it'll be grossly underpowerd but im content with that much power, if you got a better suggestion then give it :biggrin: )
http://www.discountave.net/ovpowaccaram2.html

for the mids and highs
http://www.discountave.net/ovpowaccaram6.html

then the FUBR 10 is like 80 shipped online. . .i know best buy carries it now for 70+tax free ship but i have a friend that can hopefully get it for me at best buy discount so that will put it around 250 and then all i would need is a box for it

the lanzar is http://www.millionbuy.com/lnzvibe530.html
for this i would have to find a different sub i suppose since it doesnt say if its 1 ohm stable. .. and i would hate to see 150rms to the FUBR. . .correct?

i think the power acoustik amps might even be cheaper at million buy but i know discount ave as i have bought from them before and they have free shipp on everything

also. . there are some clearance audiobahn subs at thezeb.com
are they anygood. . .price is a pretty good deal as of now
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/specials_subwoofers.html

EDIT: im glad someone here appreciates the "cheaper" brands. .man if i had the money it would to go higher end stuff but honestly sometimes i think it's way overatted. . ..i loved how the singe 10in visonik i had with 150 watts sounded. .and it was only a 40 dollar sub. .i love the way autotek stuff sounds. . ...but i can't finda place locally to get GS redline (same brand. .just looks cooler but you probably already knew that)

blue LEDz
10-26-2003, 09:51 AM
not bad choices for the money;) i'll check with my dist. and see what they can do, but i don't think it'll be much better if at all.

traitorhound
10-26-2003, 09:55 AM
cool. .thanks, now all i gotta do is take measurements of my current amp rack and see if all the new goodies will fit

this is off topic. ..but what in theory shoud sound better?
a single 10 with 300watts or 2 10's with 150 each?
both in correctly sized sealed enclosures

casue im wondering why i liked the sound of one sub better (hence why im going back to it, or maybe its cause i just didnt' like how kickers sound)

blue LEDz
10-26-2003, 10:10 AM
it all depends on the sub;) say you have a single sub that needs 600 watts to really move it, and you have a 300 watt amp hooked to it. you won't push it anywhere near it's limits. course if you have 2 subs that need 150 watts each, and you have 300 total going to them, then you would be pushing them just right:biggrin: it's all about matching the amp and sub(s):p: so if your single 10 had an rms of 300 watts, and you gave it 300 watts, it would probably sound better than two 10's that have an rms of 300 watts, but you only give them 150 watts;)

traitorhound
10-26-2003, 11:08 AM
hmm. . maybe ill rethink my thoughts on the sub then. ..as i don't wanna build a new amp rack. . i live in an apartment right now and don't have a garage to work on stuff

blue LEDz
10-26-2003, 03:52 PM
EDIT: im glad someone here appreciates the "cheaper" brands. .man if i had the money it would to go higher end stuff but honestly sometimes i think it's way overatted. . ..i loved how the singe 10in visonik i had with 150 watts sounded. .and it was only a 40 dollar sub. .i love the way autotek stuff sounds. . ...but i can't finda place locally to get GS redline (same brand. .just looks cooler but you probably already knew that)

i missed that earlier:biggrin: granted i wouldn't mind running all top of the line stuff, and i could financially afford it, but i'd rather spend my money on more important stuff;) i love autotek equipment, and they are by no means a cheaper company, just not well known;) GS redline is no longer a part of millenium group, and they might not be around at all anymore:( you'll probably want the SQ sub with the amp you are getting, since the fubr has a stronger motor and needs more power;) the SQ has lower xmax, but half the magnet, so it will be much more efficient with lower power;) you might want to look into the class A/B series. they are the same power and probably have the same circuit board, but are cheaper, even though they are newer amps:confused:
2 channel for the sub, $75 (http://store.yahoo.com/discave/a5powacclasa.html)
4 channel amp, $100 (http://store.yahoo.com/discave/a6powacclasa.html)
specs on the class A/B amps (http://www.poweracoustik.com/products/amps/classD.html)
specs on the gothic amps (http://www.poweracoustik.com/products/amps/gothicseries.html)
specs on the fubr (http://www.poweracoustik.com/products/subs/fubr.html)
specs on the SQ (http://www.poweracoustik.com/products/subs/sq.html)
SQ 10 is only $80 (http://store.yahoo.com/discave/sqpowac10car.html)

traitorhound
10-27-2003, 08:39 AM
from looking at power acoustics stuff. .i was looking at the class a/b amps too. ..does that mean sincea ll the specs are the same (even the amp size so i would also think they same circuit boards) taht they are just he same amps in different casing.

but i have decided to move one step up since the next step higher for the sub is onlyl ike 10 dollars more and gives anotehr 150 rms to get 450rms to the sub

that is only 100 shipped for eitehr model of the PA 820 amp
but it doesn't say whether or not it is 2 ohm mono stable so i dunno if the SQ sub would work better than the FUBR then since the FUBR would be running at 4OHM on the amp to get 460rms wheras the SQ (if the amp isn't 2 ohm mono stable) would only get 360rms. ... ..:confused:

hmm. ... .you know what i just thought . my stuff is going to be inside a covered amp rack anyway. . .it doesn't need to look good. ..since that doesn't mean sounding good. . ..heh

but i was just checking out the LT series now and they have a 2 channel that puts out 560 rms mono and i think the price is a misprint but i hope they honor it. .. .hmm. . they have the same dimenions of the others but more efficient?
link: http://store.yahoo.com/discave/ltpowac2chan1.html

and then i would get the 4 channel from the same series to still keep the matching theme

http://store.yahoo.com/discave/ltpowac4chan.html

then the fubr at cost (40 something, that's why i wanted the fubr originally :biggrin: ) puts me around 280 but tha'ts cool since ill have better stuff

blue LEDz
10-27-2003, 06:09 PM
yeah, all the amps have the same circuit board, so the series doesn't matter;) get which ever fits your budget and power requirements:biggrin: where you getting the fubr for so cheap? that's about what i'd pay for it:p:

traitorhound
10-27-2003, 06:26 PM
best buy discount...my friend works there. ..but if that falls thought you wanna get it for me and then hook it up at promazda?

blue LEDz
10-27-2003, 06:31 PM
Originally posted by traitorhound
best buy discount...my friend works there. ..but if that falls thought you wanna get it for me and then hook it up at promazda?


i'll have to call my friend and have him check with our sales rep on if they have one in stock, but i don't see it as being a problem;) i'll try to remember to call about it tomorrow:biggrin:

traitorhound
10-27-2003, 06:37 PM
sweet. ... thanks man

cuase if i get it from my friiend. . i still have to wait for is 30 day evaluation period to end so he can get the BB discount

and that time frame of 30 days started like last week. ....so it maybe faster to get it from you. ..LMK if you got it

blue LEDz
10-27-2003, 06:53 PM
yeah, i hated waiting the 30 days when i started working at BB:( course after i got it i spent more than i made;) i'll try to check on it tomorrow, and see what kind of deal i can get. BB might be cheaper, since PA probably hooked them up with a quantity discount, but it can't hurt to check;)

traitorhound
10-28-2003, 10:51 AM
Hey Brian. ...you think you can get me the amps at cost too?:p:

heh it was worth a shot

-Rich

blue LEDz
10-28-2003, 04:37 PM
Originally posted by traitorhound
Hey Brian. ...you think you can get me the amps at cost too?:p:

heh it was worth a shot

-Rich

i'll see what i can do;)

blue LEDz
10-28-2003, 05:34 PM
**** **** **** ****!!!! i just typed a nice long reply detailing everything, and i put in too many damned smileys, so it all got erased:mad: anyways here's the deal. the fubr's are getting discontinued, so my dist. doesn't have any, and won't get any. all they have are the FBX's. the LT amps will have to be shipped from the texas wharehouse, so shipping would suck, and the price is cheaper online, since you don't pay tax. the class A/B is available, and in stock at the orange city wharehouse, so i can pick them up, but they'd be $5 more than if you got them through the online site, since taxes and my friend's 5% is added on to the order. my rep recomended going with hollywood sound labs. i've been very happy with their equipment, and i've used it in my car, as well as a ton of installs:biggrin: but if you go with a hollywood setup, i'd highly recomend going with a single 4 channel amp for your fronts, and bridge the rear channels to the sub. and don't bother amping your rear speakers, since they aren't very important;) here's the amp page:
HVX400.4 (http://www.hollywoodsoundlabs.com/HSL2003/products/EXAMP.htm)
you could get that 4 channel and the HVX300.2 for your rears, *if* you really need to amp your rear speakers:biggrin:
i'd highly recomend excursion subs.
x2-1080D (http://www.hollywoodsoundlabs.com/HSL2003/products/EXSUB.htm)
i've seen these sub in plenty of competitions, and i know they can take a beating:p: it'll be a bit more than a fubr, but it's got a much more efficient motor, so it doesn't need as much power.
i can get prices on the hollywood stuff tomorrow, if you're interested;)

traitorhound
10-28-2003, 08:26 PM
alright. ... .well then now it all depends on price. . . .i would like to amp the rear speakers too. ..but cause i have them. ...heh

but now if it turns out that way then i wanna see price differentials on both of these and keep to my first said price of the amps to be around 200-220 USD if possible to keep the rear speakers powered (i don't have a head unit so that was why i had the rears on an amp)

traitorhound
10-28-2003, 08:30 PM
orange city? as in orange city next to deland?

blue LEDz
10-28-2003, 10:22 PM
sorry, didn't read the computer setup you've got;) i'll get some prices tomorrow and let you know what i think is the best route:biggrin: yeah orange city is next to deland, and i'm from deland:40oz: my friend's shop is in deleon springs, just north of deland.

traitorhound
10-29-2003, 01:03 AM
Originally posted by blue LEDz
sorry, didn't read the computer setup you've got;) i'll get some prices tomorrow and let you know what i think is the best route:biggrin: yeah orange city is next to deland, and i'm from deland:40oz: my friend's shop is in deleon springs, just north of deland.

yea that's waht i thought. . . i did one of my training scuba dives in deleon springs right off of US 17. ...it was actually a pretty crappy dive but i got certified that day

blue LEDz
10-29-2003, 07:19 AM
Originally posted by traitorhound
yea that's waht i thought. . . i did one of my training scuba dives in deleon springs right off of US 17. ...it was actually a pretty crappy dive but i got certified that day


yeah, i worked out there at the restaurant for a few years and the boat rental place for a while:biggrin: cool job;) my friend said that the cave collapsed a few months ago. no one in it, thank god;) you aught to check out blue springs for diving. i heard it's really cool. that's down in orange city;)

blue LEDz
10-29-2003, 02:44 PM
ok, got some more info for ya:biggrin:

first off, hollywood is now out of the question for amps. they have a **** ton of their speakers and a bunch of subs left, but no amps. apparently they had too many of them returned with problems, so they are not going to carry hollywood anymore, not even their subs:( and hollywood subs were the first i used in my car, so it's a bummer. but on the bright side, if you do want a hollywood sub, i can get you a pretty good deal. the edge subs back in the day were just over $100 at dealer cost. now i can get an ED-1024D for about $90, your cost. or i could get you an X2-1080D for $80. the edge is a serious sub, and it'll take a beating;) IMHO a much better sub than a FUBR.
secondly, my rep gave me a ton of info on the new crunch products, hold on, i know most everyone know's crunch is ****ty. for those of you who don't remember, back in the day crunch was a great company that put out very high quality products. then the same group that owns some cheaper brands like pyramid bout them out. their products went to **** for the later part of the '90s up through recently. they have been bought out by maxxsonics, who has maxxsonics, hifonics, and now crunch in their group. the first thing they did was redesign their products to the same high quality specifications as back in the day, and rehired most of the designers. anyways, the end product is the crunch we have today. their 3 lines out now are all high quality and very reliable. so that brings up the option of using crunch for your system. if you wanted to keep it small and economical, they've got a sweet 5 channel amp that puts out 100x4 at 4 ohm, and 300x1 at 4 ohm. info on the amps. (http://www.maxxsonics.com/crunch/content_amps_maxx.html) or you could pick out a 4 channel amp and another amp from their lineup;) i can get you the 5 channel amp for $185.
here's my recomendation to keep your cost to a minimum, while still having a loud system:
4 channel amp: BLX480 from the specs above. should be about $130.
2 channel amp: BLX2250. i'll have to make sure both amps are in stock at my dist. this one is 1000x1@4 ohm, so you'd need to run the sub in series to get 8 ohm, and about 500 watts to it;) this one should be about $130 also.
sub: fubr10, since you said you can get it for $40.
grand total = about $300
this way you'll be pushing the fubr with more power, and later on you'll be able to run the amp at 4 ohm mono, if you change subs, for more power:biggrin:

now for the cheapest possible solution, get the 5 channel amp for $185, and one of their CMX10's for $45. here's specs on the sub. (http://www.maxxsonics.com/crunch/content_subwoofers_blkmaxx.html) or you could get the square 12 in the box for $75. so $230 for the 5 channel amp and 10, or $260 for the enclosed 12;)

traitorhound
10-29-2003, 02:58 PM
alright. . .sounds good for the 5 channels..... ..

ok if we were to go to this manufacturer. ... .what if i get a 4 channel and a 2 chanllel (for the sub) that was around 10x10in. . ..i know that'll give less power for teh sub again but 10 x 10 shoudl allow both of the amps to fit in reasonably the same way that my previous setup did but with more power

how about hte same 4 channel amp you described but the sub amp be one step lower to be 10x12in any price on that.. .i think i like the idea of 2 amps as there are more wiring options for the sub

traitorhound
10-29-2003, 03:01 PM
ah crap. . .i like taht sub. . .but i already got my gf (lol shes awesome and has a woodshop at home) to build me a sealed box taht's .66cf (cause i was assuming the fubr). . .any recommendations on that one? would that 10 be alright in that box being a little too small?

decisions decsions. . ........ahhhhhhh

blue LEDz
10-29-2003, 03:15 PM
i wish the fubr's were available in single 4 ohm configuration. anyways, the smaller 2 channel, the BLX2200 would be about $120. the 5 channel would be the most economical way to do it, and running the CMX10 in your sealed box should be fine, just put some polyfill in the box;) either setup, the 5 channel and crunch 10, or the 4 channel, 2 channel, and fubr10 would be nice. the fubr would be louder, though;)

traitorhound
10-29-2003, 03:19 PM
i thoguth the fubr's were dual 2 ohm. .so they could be run as a 4 ohm load

EDIT: guess not. ..i could have sworn that it used to say dual 2 ohm sub

athought everywhere except for best buy advertising it as a dual 2 ohm sub

http://www.poweracoustik.com/fubr.htm
it says dual 2. ..but the newer version of the PA site now says dual 4

blue LEDz
10-29-2003, 06:03 PM
you know, i'm not totally sure. i remember it used to be dual 2 ohm also. have your buddy that works at best buy check the box for one;)

traitorhound
10-30-2003, 12:10 AM
hmm.. ..maybe i may just cop out and go the cheaper route. ..it just sucks right now not having subs at all in my car. . ..i got the mid bass still there but. ..there isn't that heart stopping vibration anymore. ...lol

i was just checking out thezeb.com and they have clearances on the 2001 audiobahn line up. . .any 10's that are any good from them. ..only 60 bux too

ive been looking at other brands too.....one thing that came to mine was KOLE Audio. ..same exact specs and amp sizes as Power Acoustik.....same manufacturer?

only they are like 10% cheaper in every aspect in price.....

i know ive heard of Kole Audio before cause i saw them in orlando at WATTS IN A BOX if youve ever gone to that store and all their reps recommended them as being some of the best stuff they carry. (their top brands were audiobahn, power acoustik, visonik, kole) and then they had the garbage crap that they even told me not to buy (which i already knew not to get it : boss, legacy, soundstorm)

blue LEDz
10-30-2003, 02:33 PM
i've never been a huge fan of audiobahn, since for their regular prices they are WAY overpriced and overrated, but the high excursion one for $60 is their best deal;)

i don't know anything about kole audio, except that they are a new line from the group that owns power acoustik, farenheit, and sound stream. they are probably cheaper, since they want to promote the new line:biggrin:

visonik is a partner company with MA audio, along with mobile authority. mobile authority is the cheap brand, visonik is the mid lever, and MA is supposed to be the top end.

if those are the top brands at watts in a box, that's pretty sad:(

just let me know what you decide to go with;)

traitorhound
11-01-2003, 09:21 AM
hey blue you know if they numbers on those crunch amps are RMS numbers. . .i dunno if they do the BS number like the power acoustic and the other companies do where you have to go searching for the RMS figures but ive been looking around the site and could really find any.. ..as of now it's between i think the 2 crunch amps (or the single 5 channel, dunno if 100 watts extra to the sub is going to make that much of a difference, more power is cooler though), or the kole/power acoustick amps (since the kole is cheaper and has the exact same specs leading to beleive the same circuits again

blue LEDz
11-01-2003, 07:42 PM
the numbers on the amps are rms ratings, from what my rep told me. i might not be at the promazda meet, so i won't be able to hook you up:(

traitorhound
11-03-2003, 01:38 PM
alright. . .well ive made my decision. . .i got the 4 channel class a/b power acoustic amp in the mail. . .and then im going to save up for the A1800DB for after christmas. ......and i figure i would either mate that amp with a 10in MOFO (BB discount again) or that audiobahn at thezeb.com. .....sound like a good plan?. . .hmm mofo don't like sealed box.. .. i want a sealed box for smaller size. ....

lol. . .well since i totally changed my budget to save up for next year i guess eithter the fubr or the mofo if i wanna stay with PA.....

blue LEDz
11-03-2003, 05:52 PM
nice:) i had the A1700DB from the first year they offered the DB series. that's why i got the A3000DB now;) the mofo can take a beating. i had my 15 running off the A1700DB in a transmission line box for almost a year, and it's been in my friend's car for another 9 months;)

traitorhound
11-03-2003, 06:03 PM
now i just need the money for that class d amp.. .or are there any otehr recommendations now since im going to spending $$ on this now. . .Power acoustic seems to be pretty cheap on this stuff too

blue LEDz
11-03-2003, 06:18 PM
power acoustik is IMO the best of the cheap brands;) they have turned their company around in the past 3-4 years. they used to put out nothing but crap, so they got a bad rep. but since farenheit partnered up with them, quality has gone way up. not to mention the group that owns them owns farenheit and sound stream also;)

traitorhound
11-06-2003, 11:43 AM
i guess im going to have to get new wiring too eh?

as of now i have a 4 gauge running back to my dist block with 2 8 gauge outputs with an 80A fuse at the terminal.

i actuaally went out and saw the amp this weekend (i went to watts in a box just to look at stuff (retails for 400usd) for the amp there) and it has 3 30A fuses on it and i would suppose the other amp im getting would have a single 30A or 2 30A fuses on it. . ..hmmmmmm what to do?

and i would suppose knuconcepts would be the place to get 2ga or should i sport for 0 ga. . ..cause i would suppose everyone is going to tell me that 4ga isn't enough for what im going to run....

im going to have the money for the amp in like a week (if rebate checks come in the mail then im set). . i have 240 right now and my friend owes me 40 so that'll be enough to get it from discountave.net (it's really weird that htey have two sites: discountave.net and discountavenue.net) one of them isn't an authorized dealer for their stuff and then they are authorized for all the PA associated brands but they sell them at higher costs.....is there really a difference if they are the same site (address lookup is the same along with phone numbers and billing sheets)

Lenny
11-06-2003, 08:12 PM
I'm wondering about getting a cap and what I'd need. I'm running the e12k.14 w/ the us acoustic 2150 about 450watts.. What would I need if anything????

traitorhound
11-06-2003, 08:18 PM
you could go with a 1.0F cap IIRC you should have like 1farad per 500 watts or something. . .. correct me if im wrong

it really does help brighten up the sound. . .at least i noticed it when i first put my cap in. . . .the sound came in with so much more detail and came in clearer. . .and the other side effect was that my headlights dimmed a lot less when fully cranked

Lenny
11-06-2003, 08:46 PM
alright thanks

blue LEDz
11-07-2003, 07:45 AM
traitorhound, i'd go for 1/0 cable. it's only $2.25 per foot, and it's a matter of safety when you are running higher amp load;)

Lenny, caps are worthless, till you've upgraded your alternator, battery, and have proper wiring;) all they are is an extra load that will reduce the life of your alternator. your first upgrade should always be a better battery with higher CCA's and higher reserve capacity. i don't have the formula in front of me, since i'm on my friend's computer, but i've done the calculations, proving that a capacitor can only help for a tiny fraction of a second. i mean we are talking less than a 10th of a second in most cases. richard clark did a test with a 2000 watt system and a 10 farad cap, i think, and the voltages where extremely close. the best noted part was that with the cap, the voltage did not get as high as without it, and the higher the voltage, the more output from the amp;) so the cap actually hurt the system in that aspect. once i get my brahma back, i should have my new clamp meter to do current testing, and i will hopefully have my SPL meter by then also. i'll be doing an extensive test comparing my system with a batcap 300, with a 1 farad cap, and with nothing, to see which setup has the highest wattage from the amp, and which has the highest SPL:biggrin:

traitorhound
11-07-2003, 09:16 AM
cool. ....ill do the 0 gauge. . ... i gotta get new fuse holders and dist blocks. . .eh. . .lol. .... ...actually never mind. . .im just gonna get rid of my dist blocks and use my cap as a dist block.. that seems simple enough. . .makes stuff a little simpler too

would it be safe to run the 1800db for a little while on the 4 gague as long as i keep it at 4 ohms and above. .. right now i have an 80A fuse on my battery. . . should that suffice? i would supposed that going down to 2 ohms and 1 ohm will bring my power draw super high and MAY melt the wires or blow teh fuse so i won't be cranking it. . .. .300rms from that jensen i had was almost beginning to be too much for me. . .but i know after a while im going to love all this power i have sitting behind me and try to crank it . .so ill be safe later


then its time for the yellow top (unless theres a different recommendation for that, i remember reading about hte sprial cell and whatnot). . ive been on the stock battery still. . . .and i know its gonna die soon. ....cause it's been drained once and my inverter gives me the low voltage warning at idle every once in a while to i have to drive around to charge it back up



on anotehr note. . .sucks that you can't make it this weekend. . that would've been cool

blue LEDz
11-07-2003, 05:26 PM
yeah it's safe to run the 1800DB off the 4 guage at higher impedance;) i know my amp will suck down about 150 amps at 1 ohm, so your's should be a bit over half that. say about 90 amps at 1 ohm. course running at 4 ohm is about 1/4 what my amp will do, so we'll say about 40 amps is what it'll need. 40 amps and a length of 18 feet will only need 4 guage cable;)

unless you play your system a lot with the car off, a yellow top is worthless. get a red top:biggrin: it's designed to be the starting battery for a car. yellow tops are great, if you have it isolated for the system, but other than that, the red is a better all around battery;)

yeah, i'm bummed about having to miss the meet:( but when it's a matter of me against the army, i'm gonna lose.

traitorhound
11-07-2003, 06:34 PM
yea so i went to the local audio shop today and told the guys there some stuff that i wanted to do. . .they recommended me to get a treo SS (i figured since they are big on that and treo is probably the best stuff they carry) but it seemed that he was knocking on the the PA amp that i wanted and said that it would only realistically only give out 700 at most. . .i wouldnt' know never hearing it. . .. .but are they that overinflated?

blue LEDz
11-07-2003, 06:47 PM
there was a guy on carsound, that is a very reputable member, that bench tested the same amp i have, and showed it put out about 2250 watts, and it's rated at 2300 watts. in a review from a magazine it was tested right about the same also. all car audio shops bash pretty much every brand they don't sell;) the owner of the shop where i used to get my car metered for testing talked **** when he first saw my MOFO 15 and A1700DB amp. then i hit a 147.2, and he shut the **** up, and left the shop:) my friend's an installer there, and he said the owner was pissed;) he was even more pissed when on his same meter again i hit a 151.2. that's louder than his personal competition vehicle that has a pair of 15's only doing about 148:)

traitorhound
11-08-2003, 02:59 AM
so i would suppose the amp im getting is going to be around 1300 rms if it was ever benched at 1 ohm eh. . good deal. .heh

anyways. . ..i found out how my friend would get the best buy discount for me. . .since its' only available online. . .. i would have to pay full retail for it first (totally gay) and then when it comes in he would have to buy and return it so i could get the discount. . ...hmmm. . .so that means i need like 500usd for that amp up front. . .that's pretty insane. .. .but i guess if what he says is true that i can get it for like 220 . . .hell yea. . ..im still not sure if i want a fubr or a mofo. . .maybe ill try a fubr first and then ill move up to a mofo when i want a ported box. . . .i really only like the fubr right now since it can be used in a sealed box (i kinda want something really small right now). . .i know the mofo will probably blow me away if and when i get it in a ported box. ...at the shop i went by today they were like ported is the way to go nowadays. .. as opposed to last year when i posed the same question they said sealed was still good. . . ..or maybe cause last year i was using my crappy jensen stuff (man they knocked on me hard for that. . . .bastards. . )

traitorhound
11-16-2003, 05:54 PM
any word on the amp deal blue?

blue LEDz
11-16-2003, 08:27 PM
Originally posted by traitorhound
any word on the amp deal blue?


oh damn bro, i forgot:( sorry, i'll try to call on it tomorrow;)

traitorhound
11-16-2003, 10:03 PM
cool

thanks

blue LEDz
11-17-2003, 02:18 PM
well, my distributor is out of stock on the amp right now:( they've become way more popular than they imagined:biggrin: once they get them back in stock, it would cost you about $275, which covers my friend's percentage over wholesale cost for taxes and his cut. they don't have any of the amps coming in this week, and next week they are closed for thanksgiving, so it'd be at least 2 weeks to get more in:( you could purchase it from etronics (http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?stk_code=powa1800db&svbname=309) it's $250, and regular ground shipping is $15, and 3-day express is only $25, so you'd get it for the same price, and have it a lot faster. i'd recomend doing that, since i'll be doing some army training for the first 2 weeks in december, as long as they get the paper work through, so even if they do get more of the amps in stock after thanksgiving, i won't be around to pick it up for you:( sorry bro.

traitorhound
11-17-2003, 02:51 PM
alright thanks man. . that's cool

traitorhound
11-24-2003, 09:25 PM
alright i ordered the a1800db from www.discountave.net

weird how they have another site www.discountavenue.net which is an authorized version of their site and sells stuff for like 5% more but i bought it where it was cheaper. . .it was 269.99 shipped (they do free ground. . too bad its coming from CA)

but now ive been rethinking my sub decsion since i didn't go cheap on the amp anymore. ... .. any thoughts?

i still kinda like the fubr just for the price i can get it at (maybe two since im going for show now also


im also contemplating on not even putting speakers in the rear doors since they don't do anything anyway and just bridging my amp to just power the fronts. ...any thoughts on that or should i have some kind of rear fill still?

-rich

blue LEDz
11-25-2003, 06:47 AM
the mofo's are dual 2 ohm, so they'd be getting the most power out of the amp. to go with the fubr's, you'd need 2 to run the amp at 1 ohm;) since you get the fubr's for so cheap, i'd go with 2 of them:biggrin: i run rear speakers, cause when i have someone in my back seat, i feel bad if all they hear is the bass;)

traitorhound
11-30-2003, 01:13 AM
ok... .. .for 150 usd. . . .. 2 fubr's or 1 mofo 10?


i also found a mofo 12 for 140 shipped at buy.com with 10 dollar coupon that ends tommorwo night

. . .. .a single 12 is the largest sub i will go. . . i dont want a 15 in my trunch. . .so my config is going to be either:
one 10
2 10's
1 12

or is there a better sub for the money. . i wanna spend like 150-200 on the sub/subs for the a1800db

600rms @ 4ohm
1100 @ 2ohm
1400@ 1ohm

i dunno if its 1/2 ohm stable

blue LEDz
11-30-2003, 07:36 AM
i was basing going with PA cause of the prices your friend can get you, but the MOFO 10's and 12's don't have a ton of excursion. the 10 is only .5" and the 12 is .7", 13mm and 17mm. the fubr's at least have .6" on their 10" model, 16mm. but you can get that from a K-series from ED;) of the PA's, i'd go with the 2 fubr 10's. it'll be your cheapest route, and have the most output:biggrin: there's not a whole lot else in that price range that i'd recomend to be better than the 2 fubrs;)

traitorhound
11-30-2003, 10:59 AM
turns out my friend isn't coming through for me so for the moment im looking eslewhere. . .i have until dec 19 to actually recieve the subs (my car will be in the shop till then. . .meh)

how aoubt the high excursion audiobahns that i showed you a while back. . AV1000X: i just looked at the specs for that it said 24mm xmax and those are 60 each

blue LEDz
11-30-2003, 12:32 PM
i'm never one to recomend audiobahn, but they should be on about the same SQ level as the fubr or mofo's, so i'd say go for it:biggrin: more excursion will allow it to play deeper also. plus the price is right;)

traitorhound
12-03-2003, 11:16 AM
sweetness. . well i went with the fubr's finally. . ..friend actually came through and he looked up the sku and it will scan at 54.95 for 1 . ..so i got 2 :)

they dont stock them in store though so i gotta wait for it. . but since i don't have a car till the 16th it don't matter

now on to buying 0 ga wire

i actually got my friend to buy my 4 ga that i had in my car so that will help lessen the cost for 0 ga and ring term/breaker deal

i wish they still have some kompressed 0ga

do you door sills not go down all the way or did you run the wires elsewhere

blue LEDz
12-03-2003, 11:50 AM
the BB here in charleston stocks the fubr's:confused: and for about $120, you'll be very satisfied;) did you compare your friend's prices for the RF amp kits to knukonceptz? i know the RF kits are cheap as hell with the discount:biggrin:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/detail.asp?product_id=KOM10S
http://www.knukonceptz.com/detail.asp?product_id=KOM10BL
they have the large compressed cable;) unless they are out of stock, and didn't take them off their site:( i've run 4 guage under the door sills, but the 1/0 cable is under the carpte:biggrin:

traitorhound
12-03-2003, 12:23 PM
i didn't see any RF wiring kits that suited my needs at the store. . .the largest they had that i was able to see on the shelves was 4 ga . . ill have to check up on that. . . .hmm. . .under the carpet you say. . ill have to look more into that

blue LEDz
12-03-2003, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by traitorhound
i didn't see any RF wiring kits that suited my needs at the store. . .the largest they had that i was able to see on the shelves was 4 ga . . ill have to check up on that. . . .hmm. . .under the carpet you say. . ill have to look more into that


when you pull up the door sills, you'll see the factory wire loom, with fasteners securing both the loom and the carpet. i broke all but like 2 of them, but they can come out without breaking them, i just didn't have the patience:biggrin: you'll also want to remove the bottom seat belt bolt, and possibly the seat. the panel covering the piece between the 2 doors can be slid up, or completely removed. once you've got it all unfastened and what not, the carpet pulls away with no problem;)

traitorhound
01-26-2004, 02:11 PM
alirght. . .like two month later. . .i finally got my fubr's. . .. .. ..woo hoo

well now i have another predicament now blue . . . . they are in fact DUAL 2OHM subs so i would either wire 1 sub as a 1 ohm load to the a1800db or 2 of them to give it a two ohm load. . ..i plan on building a ported box according to their specs and just wondering what you would do with that. . .. .if i do 1 sub it will get the amps 1400rms to 1 sub and the 2 ohm load will give 650rms to each sub

what would you do?

blue LEDz
01-26-2004, 10:21 PM
alirght. . .like two month later. . .i finally got my fubr's. . .. .. ..woo hoo

well now i have another predicament now blue . . . . they are in fact DUAL 2OHM subs so i would either wire 1 sub as a 1 ohm load to the a1800db or 2 of them to give it a two ohm load. . ..i plan on building a ported box according to their specs and just wondering what you would do with that. . .. .if i do 1 sub it will get the amps 1400rms to 1 sub and the 2 ohm load will give 650rms to each sub

what would you do?


i'd run the 2 subs. there isn't a large enough power difference between the ratings;) if it were more substantial, i'd just run one, if the sub can take the power. i was only running 1200 watts to my mofo 15. so 1400 on a single fubr will be a bit much. they're rated 1800 MAX, not rms. i doubt you'd be able to really hear the difference between 1100 watts and 1400 watts;)

RacerX
01-29-2004, 06:23 PM
hey guys,

got a question...what size amp would be a good one to power my solo baric l7??? I was looking at visonik but I don't know how good they are??? Also has anyone heard of DHD??? I had one of there amps before...it could hold the power to my RF 12's ...but it made a loud popping noise when it turned off!!!! OTher wise it was sweet. I need the amp to at least push 800. Any suggestion?

blue LEDz
01-29-2004, 07:53 PM
hey guys,

got a question...what size amp would be a good one to power my solo baric l7??? I was looking at visonik but I don't know how good they are??? Also has anyone heard of DHD??? I had one of there amps before...it could hold the power to my RF 12's ...but it made a loud popping noise when it turned off!!!! OTher wise it was sweet. I need the amp to at least push 800. Any suggestion?


what is the exact model of L7? visonik is ok, but they are sister companies with MA audio and mobile authority. mobile authority is the cheapest of the 3, visonik is supposed to be the middle, and MA is supposed to be the higher end competition equipment. too bad that all 3 are sub par:( the MA amp rated at 4400 watts won't even put out half that :bash:

RacerX
01-30-2004, 04:06 PM
it is the solo baric l7 2ohm dual voice coil.

traitorhound
03-06-2004, 08:50 AM
all i can say is wow about the 2 fubr's and the a1800db. . . ..im still in break in stage and its just nice clean bass. . . not overbearing (yet at least). i wanna turn it up but i can't because im still in break-in, and 2 my circiut breaker won't let me. .so meh. . .i figured since i had a 140A breaker i would be fine with my stuff. .the a1800db has 90A of fuses and my other one has a 40A fuse and my carputer is 10A. ... .so that's 140A. that leads me to believe that my breaker wasn't really a 140 A fuse since i owuld have blown some fuses eh if my breaker needed a reason to reset.

or is this a new problem that i am not aware about?

Rider69
03-07-2004, 09:18 AM
If your breaker is tripping then there is something amiss in the wiring. If you are not blasting your system, then there is somethign else drawing the current to trip the breaker and that could only be a short somewhere.

traitorhound
03-07-2004, 09:49 AM
it only trips when i turn up the volume

blue LEDz
03-07-2004, 12:48 PM
it only trips when i turn up the volume



the problem with breakers is that they trip closer to their rated amperage. a fuse will allow 2 to 3 times the rated amperage through it for short bursts before popping. the PA amps are very power hungry. the A3000DB will draw over 190 amps at full power, even though they say 150 amps. course that draw is at 1/2 ohm for burps :thumb: