my pile of junk is starting to pay off

[poop]

well as some now i picked up a pretty cheap egt , that was in need of some TLC, well today i went to do a brake job , an dlow and behold. staunless braided lines for brakes and clutch, kyb gr2's that need replacing ,energy suspension control arm/sway bar bushings/end links, and it looks liek a biger rear sway bar ? also when i pulled the brakes off the pads looked like ebc greens ?.. i was reallly stunned, not bad for a 500 dollar ebay job.this car is really paning out to be a nice car the motor pulls really strong, also its a 91 but it s got the adjustable trailing arms ?


total cost of car with taxes and everything so far
91 egt = 500.00
inspection,tags,title,taxes = 150.00 < out of state ? >
4 new rotors/brake pads = 130.00 < autozone >
4 new tires = 300.00 < falken ziex 512 ,205-50-15 >
oil /tranny-fluid change = 45.00 < redline syn in trany/castrol gtx engine >

total cost ? 1125.00

[elscotto80]

ok?

[Denis]

Sounds like some one might have acually took care of it. Wish I could have said that about my 91gt.

[jitb37]

i was told by a var buidler that the auto zone blanks rotors are just as good if no better than the brembo blanks.. i wish i cuold find a nice Egt.. I only bought m pro b/c i couldnt find a EGT..

[ne3ek]

i was told by a var buidler that the auto zone blanks rotors are just as good if no better than the brembo blanks.. i wish i cuold find a nice Egt.. I only bought m pro b/c i couldnt find a EGT..

well he lied to you because i warp the **** out of those in seconds


I bought the more expsensive duralasts and they went 2-3 weeks before warping.

[SgtRauksauff]

If you're warping them that fast, you might not be bedding them in properly. And, chances are, you're using a bad pad compound, too.

Most times, "warping" isn't actually the metal of the rotor being bent, it's an uneven distribution of the friction material from the pad across the rotor.


--sarge

[SPENONE]

NIICE..ive seen the escort of EBAYNESS..and its hawt!..lol

[ne3ek]

If you're warping them that fast, you might not be bedding them in properly. And, chances are, you're using a bad pad compound, too.

Most times, "warping" isn't actually the metal of the rotor being bent, it's an uneven distribution of the friction material from the pad across the rotor.


--sarge

well on my 89 crx i have the $11 rotors, and the $14 pads I never beat that car (because it's slow as ****.. well sometimes i do ) and during break in im sure to just brake softly wfor the first hundredish miles.. meaning no slamming on them or pumping them.

MY 90 crx has the duralast gold pads and rotors.. I was gentle on them for the first 80ish miles? raced a couple times.. and dorve normally after that. I slammed em pretty hard one day when some car merged in front of me not paying attention and since then they've been warped... and pretty bad

On the escort i had brembo blanks and some bendix pads (semi metalic i think) and i would beat the crap out of those brakes and they felt smooth everytime. this was also before i knew about proper brake bedding.

That's enough for to switch back to brembos.

[SgtRauksauff]

I just got the cheap ~$17 rotors from a local parts place, threw on my hawk hp+ pads, and spent about 15 minutes bedding them in. Next day drove to work and back, then a 7hr trip to michigan to Gingerman Raceway, Beat the brakes all day long in a lapping day (way over 100 miles on track using them hard), then drove back home, and back to work the following week, followed by an autocross the next weekend. At gingerman I used the brakes enough to have to bleed twice, but not a speck of warp at all to this day... that was back in October sometime I think...

That reminds me, properly torqued wheels (and re-torqued after heatup) will go a long ways towards making sure your brakes stay straight. you'd be surprised by how much uneven or over-torquing (commonly done at tire shops that just use a torque stick on an impact wrench) on a rim will affect this brake system.

--sarge

[bmikedaman]

Just a quick word on bedding brakes, its important, and you should check with your pad maker for instructions, if they dont have one you can get a generalized recomendation on the net with a quick google search. Basically it consists of slowing from high speed, driving for a few minutes to cool, and repeating. The biggest things are you want to bring the temperature up evenly and in steps, and you MUST keep moving so you dont transfer a bunch of heat from the pad into the rotor in one spot, thats what kills rotors is uneven heating.