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Batcaps? will they help?

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    Batcaps? will they help?

    Ok here is my system rundown.

    Kenwood KVT910DVD
    2 Accele 5 inch Headrest Monitors
    Kenwood DVD Changer
    Kenwood KTCSR901 Sirius Tuner
    Polk Momo 6.5 Components (fronts)
    Polk EX3 6.5 Components (rears)
    JBL BP600.1 (sub amp running at 2 ohms)
    JBL P80.4 (4 channel amp)
    2 Infinity 1230w Subwoofers (Ported box)
    Monster Cable 1 Farad Capacitor
    Optima Red Top Battery
    1/0 AWG Monster Cable Power and Ground Wire going into the cap and 4 AWG wire going into the amps

    I have a really serious problem with my lights dimming, I mean a real problem. It is bad. Now I have upgraded the main ground from the battery to the frame with some spare 1/0 and also a ground wire I found on the other side of the engine bay. What should I do? I am thinking of the batcap 300 or 400. will this help at all. Should I do the batcap and do all new ground points in the engine bay as well. I know I may not get rid of the light dimming completely but I want to help regulate my voltage. Right now it is constantly changing drastically and I am afraid of hurting my battery or alternator. Please help with any advice.

    Thanks

    Here is there site Batcap
    Check out my car here!!

    #2
    headlight dimming is not a sure sign of problems. if it gets drastically worse over a period of time, then something is wrong. if you have a 2.0L, their alternators seem very slow to react to a voltage drop, worse than my 1.6L that has a smaller alternator. the only real way to know if it's really that bad is to use a voltmeter. course i belive rider69 had almost the same setup, the bp600.1, and the p80.4 along with another amp, and had no headlight dimming. he also had a street wires 1 farad cap. the batcap may help, but it sounds like there might be another problem. once i get my brahma back, i'll be doing some extensive testing with my batcap 300, and i'll post on if it think they are worth it or not

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      #3
      get some 4 gauge wire if you don't have any 1/0 left and run a new power wire from the battery to the fuse box and from the battery to the alt.
      '02 classic red p5
      currently enrolled in AA.

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        #4
        i was told that too, but how much is involved in getting to the alternator? have you done this yet? If anyone has please post a how-to or pics of what will be involved. From the battery to the fuse box will be easy enough but getting to the alternator will be fun I assume.
        Check out my car here!!

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          #5
          i've looked into doing it, just don't have any$$$. if you put the car up on ramps, the alt is pretty easy to get to. the wires are pretty easy to see and get to, i'm just not 100% sure which one to replace, i haven't looked close enough.
          '02 classic red p5
          currently enrolled in AA.

          Comment


            #6
            Blue!

            Hey blue thanks for answere my question on the other post, i read it and everything. I'm just wondering b/c my headlights and dash light dim when my system hits there is some dimming?? should i just start w/ a red top battery????
            02 Pro5
            Eibachs
            Kartboy shortshifter w/ bushings
            E.12k.14 sub w/
            2150 US Acouctics
            Some what tinted

            Comment


              #7
              Re: Blue!

              Originally posted by Lenny
              Hey blue thanks for answere my question on the other post, i read it and everything. I'm just wondering b/c my headlights and dash light dim when my system hits there is some dimming?? should i just start w/ a red top battery????

              basically all that is "needed" is proper wiring, and a good battery you need to ground the battery directly to the motor, you need another cable running from the alternator to the fuse box, and you need to make sure the amp has a good ground in the back proper wiring and a red top is sufficient for most systems. the next proper upgrade would be the alternator, which in most cases is not feasible. i'm starting to really believe that the 2.0L engines have the worst alternator ever built well, it's not so much the alt, but that it's controlled by the ECU. that means that when the voltage drops, first one lead has to read the voltage and send it to the ECU. then the ECU processes it and goes "oh ****, we need more power". then it goes through a different line to the alternator, which then has to take what the ECU sends it, and then finally it kicks into high gear to produce more power i'd venture to say the process of a normal alternator is a lot faster for it to crank up to high gear i'm not positive on it, but with all the problems the 2.0L has with dimming, it makes sense to me:p:

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