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**zerocover** · 07-06-2006, 03:54 PM

Yeah you dont push in the back.
There should be a he screw somewhere. Wish I could be more help but I have drums.

**nicodeemus** · 07-06-2006, 06:13 PM

thanks zerocover. I'll get back under there and see if I can find a screw or something. I've never heard of that before. Most of the time you can just clamp a c-clamp to it and "vice" the piston back in.

**Luzer** · 07-07-2006, 11:35 AM

The rears have the e-brake mechanism, and can't be pushed in. You have to screw the pistons back in. I have not done the brakes on my P5 yet, but on other cars I've worked on the piston either has a slot for a large screwdriver, or you need a special tool that fits the impressions on the piston. The tool is available at any auto parts store, usually for under $10.

**nicodeemus** · 07-07-2006, 01:49 PM

Thanks Luzer. So I'm guessing that the slot is in the middle of the piston right? I'm going to try it right now. thanks again!!

**nicodeemus** · 07-07-2006, 09:23 PM

Well, I got my brakes done. Thanks for the help guys. My pistons didn't have a "slot" or anything in the middle of them. I had to use a pair of pliers to crank the piston back in. It sure was a pain in the ass trying to get it adjusted properly. The first time I tried I had backed the pistons back into the cylinder too far. My brakes worked fine, but the E-brake wouldn't engage. I pulled the calipers off again and cranked the piston back out a few rotations. It took some trial and error, but I finally got both of them adjusted so that the E-brake worked. I was just going to tighten the cable, but that wasn't the issue.

For those of you that are going to do this yourself, just a quick tip...clockwise goes into the cylinder, counter-clockwise brings it back out. Don't crank the piston all the way in. You'll end up with E-brake issues.

**waldo** · 07-29-2006, 02:15 PM

I had the same experience this morning with my '03 P5. I gave up and put the old pads back on. After I read your post, it confirmed what I had heard about the possibility the pistons had to be screwed back in. I did not want to go the plier route as you did, so I called O'Rielly Auto Parts to find out if a proper tool was available. First they ask if the piston was keyed for a tool, which it is not. They then ask if there was a bolt on the back of the caliper that did not appear to do anything, nothing being attached to it. There is. They told me this is just a plug, and when I remove it ther will be an allen headed screw behind it for adjustment. It's too hot to mess with it anymore today - will report back if it works

**waldo** · 08-02-2006, 09:18 PM

I had more trouble with my password tonight than I did replacing the rear disc brake pads on my P5. Only took only an hour to do both sides, and I sprayed a new coat of red paint on the calipers and disc hat during that time. Only tools you will need are the lug wrench and jack from the car, something to support the car safely with the tire off, a 4mm hex key, and a 14mm socket with rachet. I also use a shot mallet as a poor man's impact wrench, it really saves the knuckles. You don't need to really beat on your tools. just a couple of raps with the mallet usually will losen the nuts/bolts easily, and you don't draw blood. I put the car on the jack, took the tire off, and supported the car on a couple of 4x6's. The screw to back off the piston is directly behind the piston, on the back side of the caliper, under a 14mm plug. I took the plug out first, and backed off the 4mm hex head adjuster a half a dozen turns. Then I backed off the 2 14mm bolts that hold the caliper on. The caliper should slid off, and the old pads should pop out with a minimum of pursuasion. The rotors will also slide off at this time if you feel the need to run to the machine shop to have them turned. There is not a whole lot of room in the caliper to get your fingers in there to put the new pads back in, and they should go in easier than they do, but a little messing, and a few well chosen words get the job done. If the caliper does not slide back on easily, you may have to back out the piston a little more. Bolt the caliper back on. I adjusted the piston back tight to the rotor. A little more than a quarter of a turn makes the difference between free spinning, and not turning at all when you get it adjusted where it should be. I have to assume ther is some automatic tensioning device involved to take up the slack as the pads wear. This is all to make the emergency brake work, so take your time. put the plug back in, check all your bolts aree tight and put the tire back on. When both sides are done take a careful test drive. My e brake does not seem as tight, but I expected I would have to make adjusments after everything seated, and got back to the position it shoud be in. It will be a simple matter to play with the adjuster this weekend. Midas wanted $150 to do the job, pads were $40 (wagner premium lifetime guarantee), and when I knew what I was doing it only took an hour, and 2 beers
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