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blue LEDz
11-15-2003, 01:44 PM
i think i've finally decided on what i want to do for a new front setup:biggrin: i'm going to build some kick panels and put some 5.25" components in them. i am probably going to try out the type R alpines, since they are $150 off onlinecarstereo. (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=12072)
i've found them for $140 on e-bay, but then add the $20 shipping it's cheaper from onlinecarstereo. as for extra mid-bass up front, i'm going to try a set of these 8's. (http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/w8-740c.htm) i can pick them up for $30 each, and they've got nice specs;)
to amp everything, i'm thinking about trying us acoustics. the USP200 for $50. (http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html) i'll start with one amp for the alpines and one amp each for the subs. so the alpines will be getting 65 watts each, and the subs will be getting 160 watts each. if the components aren't getting enough power, i can always get another amp and run 160 watts to each side:biggrin: so for a total of $360, i think i'll have a really solid front setup:p: it'll take a bit of fiberglassing, but once it's done it'll be sweet;)

Pimpprotege69
11-15-2003, 01:53 PM
With those 8's up front it will sound great. Drums will hit you in the legs hard.

asylum24
11-15-2003, 03:09 PM
Bout damn time you are listening to me and getting type R's :D

asylum24
11-15-2003, 03:10 PM
also on your power ratings... the type R's cant handle 160 watts only 140. so that might be bad yo

blue LEDz
11-15-2003, 03:22 PM
Originally posted by asylum24
also on your power ratings... the type R's cant handle 160 watts only 140. so that might be bad yo



hehe, you still have so much to learn young grasshopper:biggrin: just cause it says it can only handle 140 watts doesn't mean you can't feed it more;) not to mention they won't be recieving freq's below about 300-400 hz, so they won't be pushed very hard. and it's not like i'll have the gain all the way up on the amp, and the volume at the highest setting on the HU:p: it's all about proper adjustment;) and i chose the type R's cause the price was right, and i liked how they sounded in my friend's car.

blue LEDz
11-15-2003, 03:38 PM
i've ordered everything except the 8's right now, and i just bid on an audio control 4XS to control everything, since i can customize all the x-over points by changing out some resistors;)

asylum24
11-15-2003, 05:46 PM
I knew that you could do it but I didnt know that you were only goin to have it on those higher feq. only.... cuz I made a mistake(and so did the shop) by putting 150 to each and ran the HU at 20 vol. with a bass sweep and blew the speakers.....I didnt have to pay for the speakers but decided to hold off on the amp for now but since its only 300 and up then you should be fine

blue LEDz
11-15-2003, 09:13 PM
that's another problem, using sine waves and bass sweeps. regular music doesn't have the perfectness of them, so it will push the speakers/subs way harder than music;) you can crank a sub for 20 minutes at full volume with music no problem, but hit it with a sine wave and you've got a really high chance of burning it up after a very short period of time. i might run the components as low as 200 hz, but i'll have to do some testing to decide:biggrin: that's what i love about the audio control 4XS, i'll have a few resistor configurations to change the x-over freq's really easy and precisely:p:

asylum24
11-16-2003, 12:02 AM
coolio

walight01
11-16-2003, 09:16 AM
whats the benifit of using the 4xs over just a normal adjustable crossover unit that has knobs?

asylum24
11-16-2003, 11:02 AM
the word sounds more impressive (i dont have a clue)

I think its just another toy for blue to play with so that he will look cool to make up for his small pp ;)



jk blue!

blue LEDz
11-16-2003, 01:56 PM
Originally posted by walight01
whats the benifit of using the 4xs over just a normal adjustable crossover unit that has knobs?


i've always loved audio control products. they are extremely high quality;) and i decided to try it, because audio control uses an internal bank of resistors to set each x-over point. so if i want to change it, i don't have to worry about testing to make sure the x-over point is right, i just take the top off, and swap out the x-over module. that way i get precisely the x-over point i want. i really wanted one of their digital ones, but i'm not about to shell out $400+ for it:eek:

dafoo21
11-16-2003, 08:00 PM
how are the alpines? better or worse or compareable to CDT quality? and blue, where would u be putting the 8s? in the front or like in the middle behind the seats near the the back doors?

blue LEDz
11-16-2003, 08:31 PM
Originally posted by dafoo21
how are the alpines? better or worse or compareable to CDT quality? and blue, where would u be putting the 8s? in the front or like in the middle behind the seats near the the back doors?


IMO they are very close. the 6.5" CDT's for $150 are great, but they don't have such a good deal on the 5.25's:( the alpines fit the budget and i like how they sound;) the 8's are going in the front doors:biggrin: i'm deciding now if i am going to enclose them, or basically run them free air. i want to enclose them, so when i take my main sub out, they will play lower;)

asylum24
11-16-2003, 11:06 PM
yay alpine :)

blue LEDz
11-17-2003, 05:01 PM
just a side note, i'm going to start by running the components off the small us acoustics amp, so they'll be getting 65 watts each, but if that isn't enough, i'll hook up my autotek SX-4160 which will deliver 100 watts to each side;) and if that isn't enough, i'll get another us acoustics USP200 and feed each side 160 watts:biggrin: course if i want to go for total overkill i can bridge my autotek amp and run 320 watts to each side:p: and i'm also going to try running my clarion processor, EQS750, after the HU, and before the 4xs. the x-over on it will be turned off. i just want the extra 7 bands of equalization:biggrin: my HU has equalization at 60, 150, 400, 1k, 2.4k, 6k, and 12khz. add in the 7 on the processor: 30, 120, 250, 500, 1k, 5k, and 12kHz. the bass and mid-bass region will have great equalization, which will make it easier to blend my 10 and 8's together;) another benefit for running both the clarion and the 4xs is that my HU will put out about 3 clean volts (rated at 4 volts, but i measured 3 volts at the highest i run the volume), and the clarion will put out 6 volts max, which i've tested at over 5 volts. so the 4xs will get a nice clean 5 volts, for a cleaner boost up to it's maximum, which is 9.5 volts;) course i won't run it that high, except for maybe the sub amp:biggrin:

blue LEDz
11-19-2003, 09:12 AM
just an update, and my opinions on the companies i went through to purchase everything.

amps: www.thezeb.com
great service. fast processing and shipping. i ordered on a sunday and the delivery is scheduled for today, wednesday the 19th. talk about fast;)

router circle jigs: www.partsexpress.com
fast processing, but no e-mail informing me of shipment. i went on their site and checked my account to find out they'll be delivered tomorrow, the 20th. great fast service, i just wanted a shipping confirmation:biggrin:

audio control 4xs: www.ebay.com
to my supprise i bid on an auction from www.mainstreet-audio.com i had never purchased through them before, but if their service is as good as what i recieved on the auction, i highly recomend using them. the e-bay name was quigmeister, and here's a link to the auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3057987875&ssPageName=ADME:B:BN:US:1
that will be arriving tomorrow also.

alpine type R 5.25" components: www.onlinecarstereo.com
i went with them just so that i would know how well their service is, for when someone asks. i'm sure i could have found the components for less elsewhere, but for a little more money, i'd rather find out how good their service is. great service and fast e-mails. it'll be coming in friday, the 21st:biggrin:

resistors and diodes: www.digikey.com
i've purchased from them before, and great service as always;) they shipped my small order of resistors and diodes by USPS, so i don't have a tracking #, but it was shipped yesterday. i ordered the resistors for making my own x-over modules for the 4xs, and i ordered a few, along with some diodes to make a voltage divider, so i can use my laptop as an oscilliscope. once i get all my equiment in, i'll be able to use it as an RTA, oscilliscope, and SPL meter:p:

8" TB sounds W8-740C: http://www.nuera-acoustic.ca/products.html
i had a lot of questions for these guys, and all my e-mails were responded to within an hour or so. great service from these guys. my only gripe is that shipping and processing cost $30, which i didn't know at first. course they are the only 8's i was looking at that fit my needs, so i don't mind spending a little extra. they were fast to process and ship the speakers, but cause of where they are located (out of canada), i won't be getting them till the 25th:(

wiring: www.knukonceptz.com
who else would i go through?:biggrin: great service as always. payment is still pending at my bank for some odd reason, and i hope they will be shipping my order today.

router: www.homedepot.com
i'm actually a bit disappointed with them. i placed the order the same time as all the rest, and all i've gotten is an order confirmation. my account hasn't been billed yet. it's not even pending like 3 of the others. i e-mailed them this morning asking WTF? and am waiting on a response. it said 2-3 days for shipping, and today is the 3rd day, and i still haven't been billed for it. and the only reason why i went with their online site, is that i haven't found a store that carries the skill plunge router i wanted:(

when i get home this weekend i'll take pics of what i have. then next weekend, i hope i'll have the rest and will be able to finish everything:biggrin:

blue LEDz
11-19-2003, 01:28 PM
let me change what i said about home depot. i am very disappointed with them:mad: i finally got a reply informing me that they were out of stock of the router i wanted, and the projected ship date would be in a week or 2:( needless to say i called them up and cancelled the order. i'll probably end up buying one at lowes or sears. i was looking at the combination base ones that have both fixed and plunge base attatchments, but they are $100, $30 more than i was planning on spending. course when you add up everything else i got totalling about $620, what's another $30 for the router upgrade:biggrin:

traitorhound
11-19-2003, 06:19 PM
cool cool stuff. . . ...i can't wait till i get my stuff done. . .won't be a while since funds have been diverted to the "paint the body kit" fund

blue LEDz
11-26-2003, 06:12 PM
the 4XS and 8's finally came in today:biggrin: i think it would have been a lot easier for this install to use some 8's with smaller magnets, but these ones were just too good to pass up;)

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/p4439b2d757e1ceb17bd8bf26c45afc7b/fa755454.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/p8ecfb8bc7b29c11d3ddf30566b3ac6ce/fa755450.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/pf32290dc7f8b62ca2801d9707a696724/fa75544d.jpg

here's proof that you can run two 10 guage power cables and a set of RCA's through the factory plug:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/pfcdd8d646cde8af18eb08f149a8e985e/fa75546e.jpg
it was a pain in the ass, but i think it'll look sweet having a big ass 8" sub and an amp mounted in each front door. and suprisingly this is the only injury i've sustain so far:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid90/p563292732f13f20a85cbd756dee04754/fa755457.jpg
i took a nice chunk out of my knucle, as you can see by the center dark part. it was a gusher, though:biggrin:

asylum24
11-26-2003, 11:56 PM
beautiful.. make sur eto post some fiberglassing pics :) gotta start my 'Top Secret project' soon

walight01
11-27-2003, 04:42 AM
its just not fair :(

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 03:20 PM
Originally posted by walight01
its just not fair :(



you have a wife and kids, i have my stereo:biggrin: and what the hell were you doing up at 4:42 in the morning? new baby keeping you up?:p: hehe, i got in at 3 AM. i went out with my friend's from high school, and my buddy jager:biggrin:

i'll be taking some pics, just not a lot, since i'm not going to make a how-to on this one. if you need a how-to, then don't try it:biggrin:

asylum24
11-27-2003, 03:27 PM
i dont need a how to... i jsut want to see pics so i can see your progress.... u hav eno faith in me yo

Intruder
11-27-2003, 04:22 PM
Hey blue, I have a few questions for you. I hope you don't mind! :)

First - how do you make an oscilloscope out of your laptop? What hardware do you need and what software do you use?

Second - because of your recommendation I bought a set of those mis-colored CDT components for $150 from TheZeb in hopes of increasing my mid bass in the front. Unfortunately that did not happen. They sound the same as my Alpine type S speakers did before I replaced them with the CDTs. Is that due to my weak HU? I have an Alpine 9807 (I just purchased a 9815 and am expecting to receive it next week). Even at average volumes, with the bass set to max I hear distortion/clipping. What do I have to do in order to get a good, clean sound out of them?

People keep telling me that I need a powerful amp if I have high power speakers, but I don't see why. I mean, I won't be able to push the speakers to their extremes but shouldn't they play just as nice at lower volumes (less power)? Please explain. :)

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 04:44 PM
in order to use a laptop as an oscilliscope you have to make a voltage divider. it steps down the voltage, so you don't harm your sound card;) check this out:
http://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=022079

you can't expect to get much performance out of a good set of components without amping them. i would recomend getting a small 2 channel amp for them. that will greatly improve their output and lower freq performance;) i picked up 3 of the USP200 amps that are $50 off the zeb:
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html
they have no built in x-over, so you'll have to use the high pass on your HU set at 80 hz or higher;) you don't need a powerful amp, you just need more power than your HU. figure your HU will put out maybe 20 clean watts. that's not enough to get clean low freq output out of anything. step up to at least 50 watts rms, and you'll notice a huge difference:biggrin: i was amazed at the difference from running 100 watts to my blaupunkt components, to now running 320 watts to each side:p: and because that, i decided to use my autotek amp to run 100 watts to each 5.25" and 100 watts to each tweeter of my new alpine type R setup;)

Intruder
11-27-2003, 04:51 PM
hmm... I don't have a crossover in my 9807, but the 9815 that I just bought has. I assumed that the CDTs own crossover limits the freqs. that go to each component. Isn't that the case? Here's what the CDT website says about my set: Frequency Response: 60-20kHz

The 6.5" CDTs are rated at 90W RMS. Are you saying that the 60W RMS the USP200 can output is enough for my components? :)

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 04:57 PM
the cross over that comes with components is only a high pass for the tweets. that's one of the reasons why i decided to not use the alpine x-over, and use my 4xs to set my own x-over point. this way it'll cut the higher freq's from the mid range driver, and the low freq's from the tweeters. and no, there is no built in high pass for the 5.25's either, so if you played say a 30 hz sine wave through a 100 watt amp, you would destroy the components:( you could actually just use some bass blockers (small inline capacitors) to prevent too low of freq's reaching the components;)

the 65x2 that the USP200 puts out will be a huge improvement over what your have now, but 100 watts would still be better;) course the more power you run, the more careful you have to be to make sure they don't see too low of freq's. ask asylum, he killed a set of type R components;) the way i look at is that to get a 100x2 amp, you'd have to spend around $100. so it all comes down to what you can afford:biggrin:

Intruder
11-27-2003, 05:08 PM
All I want is good and clean sound. I won't know the difference between 65W and 100W until I hear it. :) So, what do you suggest?

Let's say I go for the USP200 (I'd rather go for a USP Tactical (http://www.hkpro.com/video/USP45%20Tactical.mov) though :biggrin: ). Can you explain briefly how do I go about installing the amp, hooking up the speakers and implementing a protection (bass limiter)?

Intruder
11-27-2003, 05:11 PM
On a side note, I found some neat programs that you can use. They're all free! :)

- a sine wave generator
- real time spectrum analyzer

All you need is a microphone (for the spectrum analyzer) and a soundcard.

Check 'em out: Sound Card Audio Tools and Toys (http://www.techmind.org/audio/)

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 05:53 PM
i'm a fan of overpowering everything, but if you don't play it really loud, why bother? if you just want good sound, but don't want to worry about damaging your speakers, the USP200 will be fine;) as far as installing the amp, i'd just put it under one of your front seats. velcro or screw it down. this install kit will leave you with extra cable, but it's easier to get than peicing what you need together;)
http://www.knukonceptz.com/detail.asp?product_id=KOLAK8

i'll check those programs out;) i've got true RTA and winscope on my laptop now:biggrin:

Intruder
11-27-2003, 05:56 PM
Cool, what about my rear speakers? I still have those Alpine Type-S 6x9s which are rated at 50W RMS, 200W Peak. :rolleyes:

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 06:05 PM
keep running those off the HU;) no need to amp them:biggrin:

Intruder
11-27-2003, 06:07 PM
Originally posted by blue LEDz
keep running those off the HU;) no need to amp them:biggrin:

really? why not? :) (just because they're only supposed to be rear fill?)

asylum24
11-27-2003, 06:19 PM
i blew those R's cuz I ran them at like 175 watts each at a volume of 20 out of 35 (which is louder than I listen to, I usually dont go past 18) for around 30 minutes or so... sounded great till we froze the cones... then we checked the max on the speakers and it was 140(oops) so thats why they blew...

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 06:20 PM
Originally posted by Intruder
really? why not? :) (just because they're only supposed to be rear fill?)


yep:biggrin: think about being at a concert. do you face the stage, or the away from the stage?;)

asylum24
11-27-2003, 06:30 PM
haha pwnd!




ok not really but I hadnt said that in a while so i did.

Intruder
11-27-2003, 07:17 PM
Originally posted by blue LEDz
yep:biggrin: think about being at a concert. do you face the stage, or the away from the stage?;)
I don't know man... :(
I mean - yeah, I face the stage, but in my case, I hear my rear speakers better than I hear the front ones and having all four sounds the best right now.

Anyway, I am going to order the USP200 in a second. I'm also ordering some of those bass blockers (http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/lightningaudiocrossovers.html) and I just wanted to get your approval. ;) Would you recommend something else instead? I'm also ordering the amp kit from knukonceptz.

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 08:20 PM
wait till you amp your front speakers;) it's a common mistake for people to think that rear speakers are more important than front ones, since typically rear speakers are larger than fronts, so more bass comes from them. if anything, get some mid bass 6x9's for the rear for added mid bass, if the components still aren't enough after being amped;) i personally like how 5.25" components sound over the 6.5's, but the 5.25's don't have enough mid bass:( course that's why i'm putting the 8's in the doors:biggrin: the 8's will be mid bass, the 5.25's will be mid range, and the tweets will be the highs:p: i've got the x-over chips made for my 4xs, so when the sub is in, the 8's will play 80 or 90 hz up to 200 or 300 hz, the 5.25's will handle the 200-300 up to 3.5 KHz, and the tweets will have above that;) i might set the low pass for the 5.25 and high pass to the tweets up higher, but i won't know where till i try them:biggrin: get the 85 hz bass blocker. that will do just fine for the components.


asylum, did you have a high pass x-over on the components? i'm going to be running 200 watts to each side;)

Intruder
11-27-2003, 08:22 PM
Allright, I'm ordering.

Intruder
11-27-2003, 08:31 PM
Hey blue, thanks a lot man! :) I have a new question now - what's the recommmended freq. range for my sub? I checked the eD site but found nothing. What freq-s is your sub playing?

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 08:46 PM
i'd keep it under 100 hz. i typicall don't try for over 110-120 hz at most out of a sub, but it all depends on the box. my first 6th order BP i had the low pass set at about 80 hz. the enclosure i have now i have it set around 110 hz. see how your components sound amped, and blend the sub in with them;) you don't want it to play any higher than it has to, so the lows are cleaner:biggrin:

Intruder
11-27-2003, 08:58 PM
cool :) what about the sub-sonic frequencies? my tsunami 1100d has two filters/crossovers - one is the subsonic filter and the other is the low pass crossover. I figure I'd have to set the low pass to 100-110Hz, but what about the sub-sonic filter?

Intruder
11-27-2003, 09:03 PM
blue, by the way, did you build (and test) that voltage divider?

blue LEDz
11-27-2003, 09:19 PM
you'll have to tune the subsonic by ear, but you'll probably need it set in the low 20's, if at all;) if you have a test tone CD, you can play a low freq note, like 20 hz, and turn the subsonic to 30 hz. play the 20 hz wave on reapeat, as loud as you play your system. then carefully lower the subsonic filter to the point that the sub bottoms out, or gets close to bottoming out. then turn up the subsonic filter a little, so you will never get it to bottom out;) a pure sine wave is as powerful of a clean sound wave as you can get, and it's the loudest thing you can run through a speaker. regular music will rarely have the purity and amplitude of a sine wave, so you won't need to worry about damaging your sub. and if by some chance it does, the subsonic filter will protect the sub from bottoming out.

no, i haven't built the voltage divider. i'm trying to decide how i want to make it, so i can have different ratios for different things. like my HU will need to step down about 4 volts. my 4xs will need to be stepped down from about 6 volts. then the USP200's will need a different step down, and so will my autotek amp and power acoustik amp;) i might make it so i have steps for 50, 75, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, and 2500-3000 watts:biggrin:

Intruder
11-27-2003, 09:29 PM
Well, I thought that those diodes "clamp" the voltage to 1.8V and won't let anything more than that go to your sound card even if it is much higher than the 25:1 ratio.

edit: but then clipping will occur and you won't see anytihng that is higher than 1.8V. so basically this setup will work for anything that fits in the 25:1 ratio. If you want to use it for anything that won't fit, just use a 50K resistor in place of the 24K and then your ratio will be 50:1 :) You could put all this in a small plastic box and have a common ground but several inputs with different ratios. Don't worry about the wattage because your input impedance is so high that those resistors will get very little current. Just pick a couple of resistors that you think will fit the voltage ranges for your different amps and just connect them to the point between R1 and R2. Then use the other ends for your input.

asylum24
11-28-2003, 04:32 AM
Originally posted by Intruder
Well, I thought that those diodes "clamp" the voltage to 1.8V and won't let anything more than that go to your sound card even if it is much higher than the 25:1 ratio.

edit: but then clipping will occur and you won't see anytihng that is higher than 1.8V. so basically this setup will work for anything that fits in the 25:1 ratio. If you want to use it for anything that won't fit, just use a 50K resistor in place of the 24K and then your ratio will be 50:1 :) You could put all this in a small plastic box and have a common ground but several inputs with different ratios. Don't worry about the wattage because your input impedance is so high that those resistors will get very little current. Just pick a couple of resistors that you think will fit the voltage ranges for your different amps and just connect them to the point between R1 and R2. Then use the other ends for your input.


of course that makes since and all :rolleyes: gee blue why didnt you figure that one out gosh you dumbass....


(wtf did he just say)

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 08:08 AM
Intruder, i was thinking about making a bit more complicated and have a rotary switch to select the different resistor values:biggrin: the diodes will be the same, and i'm making it with 2 inputs, one for RCA's and one with alligator clamps for amp outputs;)

Intruder
11-28-2003, 11:11 AM
Originally posted by blue LEDz
Intruder, i was thinking about making a bit more complicated and have a rotary switch to select the different resistor values:biggrin: the diodes will be the same, and i'm making it with 2 inputs, one for RCA's and one with alligator clamps for amp outputs;)

mmm... nice! :biggrin:

Intruder
11-28-2003, 11:57 AM
hey blue, I guess you've done plenty of experiments with your sub's position, so I'm gonna ask you this -- is there a difference in SPL when your sub is facing you as opposed to facing the other way?

asylum24
11-28-2003, 12:06 PM
yes there is. louder if it points the rear

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 12:09 PM
if you are going to have the sub face you, you need to isolate it from everything behind it. i'm planning on doing that for my next SPL box. it'll be at the front of the trunk, and the trunk will be sealed off from the rest of the car. otherwise it sounds better and can be better for SPL facing the rear;) i usually always face mine to the rear, but for pure SPL purposes it's generally better having them face forward, so they are closer to the mic:biggrin: for a general daily driving box, you lose 3 dB when you face your box forward:( to face a box forward, it has to be either a sealed box, for SQ, or a ported box, designed for SPL in mind;) either way it can be a gamble, if not done properly.

Intruder
11-28-2003, 04:44 PM
Originally posted by blue LEDz
it has to be either a sealed box, for SQ, or a ported box, designed for SPL in mind;) either way it can be a gamble, if not done properly.

hold on, I thought that ported boxes are for SQ and sealed boxes are for SPL. :confused:

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 06:10 PM
Originally posted by Intruder
hold on, I thought that ported boxes are for SQ and sealed boxes are for SPL. :confused:


huh?:confused: not in the least. sealed boxes are actually the worst for SPL:biggrin: typically SQ guys like the roll off of a sealed box, but i personally hate it. i think a low tuned ported box has better over all response, and more even output, therefore making them a better choice for SQ;) course then you have to factor in transient response, delay, and port velocity (ie port noise). i'm fairly certain that every major SPL winner is using a ported box. course we're talking a HUGE ported box, with a port area around the size of the sub, and high tuning, say around 55 hz or greater.

Intruder
11-28-2003, 06:58 PM
that's what I thought... I remember you telling me that I want a ported box because it would sound nicer, and at that time I also checked out a few pre-made designs and didn't like their sound. the general observation was that ported boxes (not the plexiglass window type) sounded better to me than the sealed ones... so I've always thought that ported is for SQ :) and my design was a mix between SQ and SPL.

I generated some sine waves with a various frequencies and the ones that sound more like the bass I want are around the 50-60Hz range. Let's say I want to tune my eD box to 55Hz. I'd have to build a new box but how does that fit with the driver I already have (e12K.44)? Is this something unusual (tuning the sub to 55Hz)? I feel like 30Hz is too low. :)

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 07:20 PM
if you tune your box higher, it will sound like ass in the lower freq's, not to mention the sub will bottom out at a higher freq. try turning the bass boost on your amp up. it should be a boost at 45 hz, but it'll increase around it also;) tuning it high to 55 hz would only be for SPL purposes, and not for daily driving. what HU do you have? some HU's come with a built in 7 band EQ, like mine, and it has adjustment at 60 hz. or you could look into getting an EQ. they usually have adjustment at 60 hz. an audio control EQX would be a nice thing to have, from their new lineup, but good luck finding one for under $150. from their older stuff, i found this on e-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3061406534&category=3290
the reserve has been met, so i don't think the price will go much over $60. you can run the front channels to the USP200 for your components, and the rear to your sub amp:biggrin:

Intruder
11-28-2003, 09:05 PM
The TSUNAMI 1100d amp I have doesn't have bass boost. My HU right now is an Alpine 9807, but I got a 9815 which I have not received yet. My current HU doesn't have an EQ but has a bass boost which I can adjust (center frequency - 60, 80, 100 or 200Hz). I think the 9815 has a better EQ plus a HP/LP crossover, so I'll check it out when it gets here and I install it. The EQ on eBay is really nice, but I might not need it if my new HU has a good EQ. Do you think so?

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 09:24 PM
i was looking at alpines website for info on the HU you have coming. it should be able to do exactly what you need it to do. it says it has parametric EQ adjustment from 20 hz to 20 Khz, at 1/3 octave steps. if it works like a normal 1/3 octave EQ, you'll be set. otherwise it does have a plus or minus 14 dB at 60 hz boost;)

Intruder
11-28-2003, 09:29 PM
what do you think about my new HU? :) would you buy one?

blue LEDz
11-28-2003, 10:12 PM
Originally posted by Intruder
what do you think about my new HU? :) would you buy one?


HELL YEAH!!! :biggrin:
i wanted to try the JVC i got, and while i love it, i'm still keeping my eye out for a good deal on a top of the line alpine;)

Intruder
11-28-2003, 10:19 PM
hehe, that's good to know ;)

asylum24
11-29-2003, 02:03 AM
blue u need the f#1 status HU :) so waht if its 3k... just steal your friends wallet ;)

blue LEDz
11-29-2003, 08:10 AM
Originally posted by asylum24
blue u need the f#1 status HU :) so waht if its 3k... just steal your friends wallet ;)


dude stop giving me bad ideas:biggrin: (reaching over and grabbing ski mask)

walight01
12-01-2003, 12:56 AM
its still not fair. I love my family, good thing my car is a part of my family :biggrin: hopefully I can start my spl setup in a few months since i landed a nice paying job, just have to keep from putting money into other things, IE: lowering srings, dishwasher, new porch, paint job, blablabla.

any updates blue on the install

asylum24
12-01-2003, 01:04 AM
he cant type he accidently fiberglassed his hand to the door ;)

walight01
12-01-2003, 01:19 AM
that would make since ;)

blue LEDz
12-01-2003, 08:34 PM
Originally posted by asylum24
he cant type he accidently fiberglassed his hand to the door ;)


lol, that's a good one:biggrin: actually i've gotten pretty far with it all. it took a lot longer for the fiberglass to harden, since it was cold:( i almost doubled up on hardener, and it still took forever to harden. i was sitting outside with a blow dryer for a while:rolleyes: anyways, all the wires have been run into the door for the amps, i've made the mounting plate for the amps, so they'll be bolted to the door. i've got the passenger door cut to where it needs to be to fiberglass it in, so it's flush with the amp, and transitions into the pod for the 8. the wood piece that the amp mounts to will be bolted to the metal door panel, and so will the pod for the sub. i've got the chips made for the 4xs, and still trying to decide if i want to use the x-over that came with the type R's, or use the 4xs and run more power to them:biggrin: the kick panels are almost done. all the fiberglass is finished, and now it needs a little sanding and bondo;) i might sell the kick panels and type R's to buy some components that can handle more power:biggrin: and possibly the TV for my dash:p: aside from the front stage, i got sick of not having a sub, since the brahma is still off for service:mad: so i quickly built a box for the 8's. it's .65 cu ft, tuned to 36 hz, and each 8 is getting 100 watts. it actually sounds awesome. my friend's thought i put in some 10's. other than that nothing else going on.

Intruder
12-01-2003, 11:30 PM
got pics, man?

blue LEDz
12-02-2003, 06:42 PM
Originally posted by Intruder
got pics, man?


naw, i didn't have much time, so i wasn't worried about pics. and now i'm back up in SC, and my camera is in FL:rolleyes:

Intruder
12-03-2003, 12:14 AM
aww, that's too damn bad... :( I wanted to see what your amp mounting plate looks like and how you mount it to the door and all that...

blue LEDz
12-03-2003, 10:49 AM
Originally posted by Intruder
aww, that's too damn bad... :( I wanted to see what your amp mounting plate looks like and how you mount it to the door and all that...

it's a piece of 3/4" MDF a little larger than the amp, and it's secured with bolts;) i'm going to spray each door with sound dampening before i finish mounting everything:biggrin: i'm going to have bolts coming though for the enclosure for the 8's, with wing nuts on the inside. i want those as secure as possible. everything will also have industrial strength velcro securing everything, which i hope will help with the rattles, so it absorbs some of the vibration:p:

Intruder
12-03-2003, 03:00 PM
aww man, I have to do something similar to my doors. every piece of the door rattles. those plastic things that attach the panels to the doors are worth nothing. I've removed the panels so many times that their holding strenght has diminished tremendously. :) I don't know how to proceed. Even my side mirrors rattle like crazy. All I have to do is rev the engine to about 1200rpm and the mirrors rattle. And when the music is playing the mirrors rattle even without the subwoofer.

blue LEDz
12-03-2003, 03:08 PM
check this out:
http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1551
glyph made a nice how-to on silencing the 3rd gen door panels:biggrin:

Intruder
12-03-2003, 03:21 PM
Cool, thanks for pointing that out blue.
I don't know if you remember, but I had my doors covered in Brown Bread. Apparently it reduces road noise, but failed to get rid of the cracking plastic noise produced when the panels rub against other parts of the door - that's my problem.

Here's a picture:

http://www.pixelmaths.com/martin/bb_06.jpg

blue LEDz
12-03-2003, 05:16 PM
for where the plastic meets anything else, whether it be plastic or metal, either use extra brown bread, if you have some left, or get some really soft weather stripping. i'm going to put weather stripping all around my door panel, and where the top and bottom half screw together;) i'm going to have to do something, cause i know the 8's are going to rattle like hell:biggrin:

Intruder
12-03-2003, 05:20 PM
it rattles where the door panel meets the mirror howsing (or whatever it's called) on the inside of the door. how am I supposed to put brown bread on that? :biggrin: it's in plain view and I can't do anything about it man... My dad has a '01 Mercury Cougar and his doors are SOLID. I wish the Proteges had such good construction, but then it wouldn't be a Pro.

Intruder
12-05-2003, 03:08 AM
Hey blue, how long do you usually wait for knukonceptz to ship you items? I ordered my stuff a week ago and the status is still "awaiting payment". I remember last time wasn't quick - it took them 2 days to ship, but not a whole week like now.

I'm also waiting for a word from eD. They should have received my e12K.44 on the 1st or the 2nd (guaranteed by UPS). They told me it takes a day or two to inspect it. It's been 4 days now and still nothing from them. I hate this **** man...

Intruder
12-05-2003, 02:03 PM
Blue, where the hell are you man? :biggrin: Too busy with your new install, huh? :) I got an email from eD and knukonceptz. They have shipped my stuff on the 1st -- both of them. eD tells me that they sent me a brand new driver (for free) :biggrin:. I should be getting all the other stuff on Monday, and I'll probably start my own "new front stage" thread. ;)

blue LEDz
12-05-2003, 03:07 PM
sorry, my laptop has been messing up:mad: i had to recover it today:rolleyes: anyways, when i ordered from knu last time it said awaiting payment till about the same time i recieved it:biggrin: i wish adire was working as fast as ED:mad: it's been well over a month, and i still haven't heard from them:( i'll be calling them today.

Intruder
12-05-2003, 03:12 PM
good luck with the brahma, blue...

Intruder
12-09-2003, 05:06 AM
Santa came to my house today - dressed in a brown uniform. :biggrin: I got my USP200, my CDA-9815, the Kables and the bass-killers. Let's see how long it takes me to properly install all this.

blue LEDz
12-09-2003, 11:21 AM
santa is going to come again for me:biggrin: i'm ordering 6 of the TB Sounds 8's, and the new termlab USB SPL meter today;)

walight01
12-09-2003, 11:30 AM
you guys officially SUCK!!! Santa is bringing me a "IOU" this year.

blue LEDz
12-09-2003, 11:31 AM
Originally posted by walight01
you guys officially SUCK!!! Santa is bringing me a "IOU" this year.


lol, i might let you play with my new toys:biggrin: