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    Replacing freeze plug while engine is in car

    I have a leaky freeze plug. It's the plug closes to the accessories (passenger) side of the engine. From under the car, I can see the plug. I can get my hand on it also. I can probably put a 3/8" extension on it, hit it with a hammer and get it to turn, and pull it.

    What I am concerned with is getting the new one in there. Has anyone here installed a new freeze plug while the engine is the car? Were you able to get a good straight-on shot at the new freeze plug to press it into the block properly?

    Also, where I can buy freeze plugs? I can't seem to find any parts outlets that sell them. I guess the dealer is the only choice.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by Boston; 11-16-2003, 06:49 PM.


    "Mazderati"
    91 LX DOHC 5 speed V8 stocker
    Pioneer DEH-550MP, Infinity 6002i's, Pioneer 6x9s
    Uniden PC76XL w/ Astatic Road Devil & 5' Wilson Silverload

    1982 Jeep Wagoneer Brougham
    AMC 360 V8, 4-speed, 4x4

    #2
    I think i may have had to replace that very one. Mine was just below the head and closest to the water pump.

    You will need to remove the exhaust manifold and probaly the PS pump. Those little suckers are not easy to put in, you must tap on them evenly to seat them in correctly....i ended up poking it right through into the block and had to remove the water pump, timing belt and all that ****...i was lucky and fished it out. This happened a few times again, but i got good at getting it out....

    I suggest you get the part from the dealer, i found a bit too small and a bit too big at all the major parts chains...and had a biyatch of time...so i suggest you get the proper part right off the bat.

    Now, since it dosen't freeze by the beach in cali, i JBwelded the plug to the block. It'll never move now I had to do this again at the track on race day this past October at Buttonwillow. On my way up there about 25miles out, i blew the plug right beside the oilfilter/cooler. Got a trialer ride to the track, removed alternator, mixed up the JBweld and blammo, drove home sunday night and it's been good as new since. I did end up having to co-drive as i did NOT want to have to pull the alt on the side of the freeway cause i didn't give the JB enough time to set up... anyway, this is a use at your own risk piece of advice.

    Comment


      #3
      OK, thanks!

      I have an appointment with my mechanic for Tuesday, so maybe I'll just leav eit to him. I do whatever I can on my own vehicles, but somestimes the headaches are better left to the professionals

      That way if he pokes it into the block, he can remove the waterpump and timing chain. I'll just pay for the new parts to install while he's soaking up the labor costs cuz he had to take them off anyway


      "Mazderati"
      91 LX DOHC 5 speed V8 stocker
      Pioneer DEH-550MP, Infinity 6002i's, Pioneer 6x9s
      Uniden PC76XL w/ Astatic Road Devil & 5' Wilson Silverload

      1982 Jeep Wagoneer Brougham
      AMC 360 V8, 4-speed, 4x4

      Comment


        #4
        This can be done by you at home if the mechanic price sounds too high. I just had to do it on my 98 Ford Escort just one week ago. It happened to me quite a few years back in my 84 Camaro too. A mechanic did it for me back then with a metal plug but I did it this time myself. Rust ate through the freeze plug of this recently bought Escort. Not using enough, or any, antifreeze/coolant can rust the plugs and a hole develops. My current mechanic suggested an alternative he uses that has not failed yet. You replace the plug with a rubber version so you don't have to hammer in anything. Don't think it's stupid. He was right and it worked like a charm. He gets a chisel and just pushes the old one in the cavity and just leaves it there. He then puts the rubber one in. I, however, don't recommend that. He told me if I didn't want to do it that way then go through the hell and get pliers and pull it out. What I did was look for a tool online but only a full tool kit came out for mostly installing metal plugs. More surfing found me the tool for ONLY removing the old plug. Here's a link to the tool you can buy online. You will have to enter your zip code:



        You will not find it in auto parts stores but you will find the rubber freeze plugs in stores. I found another identical tool made by Snap-On and after contacting 12 different Snap-On drivers, I found one that had it. It's a little more expensive but not enough since I would have had to of waited 13 days to get the first one. That one is $8.29 plus shipping and the Snap-On model was $15.55 plus tax here locally.

        As far as the plug itself goes, the rubber one works by using the one that is closest to the size of the hole and then tightening the screw in the middle. No hammering, no yanking, no grief.

        I managed to fit a drill in there and make a new hole because the rusted one was too big already and I needed an area with less rust. Get a rough or wire sponge, whatever, and scrape off any rust from the hole's wall so the new plug will not slip off with the rust nor keep the new plug from going in. I can't tell you how well this worked out without a single drop of coolant leaking out driving from Miami to North Fort Lauderdale and back and everywhere else since.
        Last edited by mannydingo; 11-17-2003, 12:15 AM.

        Comment


          #5
          Awesome! Definitely great info for the future. That looks like a simple solution. I already have the appointment with my mechanic for tomorrow, so I'm just going to keep it, let him do a flush and fill and he can worry about all that. I'll get my car back sooner that way and with less work on my part.

          Thanks for the info!


          "Mazderati"
          91 LX DOHC 5 speed V8 stocker
          Pioneer DEH-550MP, Infinity 6002i's, Pioneer 6x9s
          Uniden PC76XL w/ Astatic Road Devil & 5' Wilson Silverload

          1982 Jeep Wagoneer Brougham
          AMC 360 V8, 4-speed, 4x4

          Comment


            #6
            Glad you like it! It's good when all that writing is appreciated. :-)

            Comment


              #7
              (just so it's clear, this is a flame for your mechanic)
              lets think about that for a second....

              You said he leaves the old plug INSIDE the block....this to me is a great example of a DUMBASS. It will surely create a slow point or block off near completely the flow of coolant....there's not much room in those passage ways as it is...and if it where to get sucked into the waterpump...well, now it becomes a much more involved problem. Your mechanic would be surely liable for the damages.

              Although the rubber grommet seems like a good idea, depending on it's material.

              I had no problem at all getting the old one out. I drilled a hole and used a mini metal saw blade cut a slit to the edge (being very careull NOT to cut into the block. Then with a set of pliers, i peeled it out. Then used a magnet to get all the fine shavings out of the block. took about 10mins.

              Comment


                #8
                Cool. If I didnt have the appointment and had more time while it's light out, I would do it myself. I'll probably do it next time.


                "Mazderati"
                91 LX DOHC 5 speed V8 stocker
                Pioneer DEH-550MP, Infinity 6002i's, Pioneer 6x9s
                Uniden PC76XL w/ Astatic Road Devil & 5' Wilson Silverload

                1982 Jeep Wagoneer Brougham
                AMC 360 V8, 4-speed, 4x4

                Comment


                  #9
                  MazdaRacer, I agree with you 100% about not leaving the old plug inside. It has worked for him but I would not chance it even though the chances of a problem are slim. You have to remember, it all depends on the car. The Protege, as well as other cars, aren't as difficult to remove the old plug from. Some cars are literally a nightmare and if you would want a metal plug in, and ofcourse to remove the old one, nothing short of lifting or lowering the engine out of its place will do. You know, I changed many cars' water pump. Most have been a breeze without removing much. I did it on the Protege and it was hell. What might be easy for you on one car can be hard for me while a difficult job for you can be a breeze for me. My mechanic is not a dumbass. Some cars are not worth the work and expense of doing it the "right" way. Just out of curiousity, I called to find out how much it would cost if the engine had to be raised/lowered/removed to replace the plug. The answer was no less than $350. The price at the dealership would not fall below $600 and could be as much as $850. We know dealerships are way out of proportion price-wise.
                  The plug I removed, for example, from my 98 Escort had nothing in front of it. The one next to it, if it goes bad, will require removal of the starter and who know what else. My mechanic has been a blessing to our home by solving loads of problems for free. Even with a MAJOR problem I had that he worked on for two days, he told me I owed him nothing. I paid him that time anyway. Certain jobs require cutting corners due to a car's age, mileage or value. I'm sure you realize that. Anyway, the way I did it risked nothing since I took the plug out. It's easy on this car with the tool Without it, it would have been loads more work.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    One more thing, you said:

                    "I had no problem at all getting the old one out. I drilled a hole and used a mini metal saw blade, cut a slit to the edge (being very careull NOT to cut into the block). Then with a set of pliers, I peeled it out. Then I used a magnet to get all the fine shavings out of the block. took about 10mins."

                    Come on, 10 minutes? Even with how easy mine was, nothing, nothing takes 10 minutes that is more involved than ,say, changing your oil. Heck, sometimes changine oil and filter takes more than 10minutes on some cars. There is a minimum of a half an hour for almost anything.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by mannydingo
                      Come on, 10 minutes? Even with how easy mine was, nothing, nothing takes 10 minutes that is more involved than ,say, changing your oil. Heck, sometimes changine oil and filter takes more than 10minutes on some cars. There is a minimum of a half an hour for almost anything.
                      yeah, but you aren't Darryl.
                      When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?

                      Originally posted by goldstar
                      Yes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.

                      A Protege driver named Brock
                      Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
                      So his engine he goosed
                      With much too much boost,
                      And drove a rod through his block.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Maybe you're right. I'm not Super Darryl !!!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ok, well let me clear that up, it took 10 mins AFTER i removed the PS pump and exhaust manifold. But i do agree, i have spent many a HOUR on a 10 MIN job in the past...lol

                          I only speak of the Protege, not other cars. If he cuts corners when ppl are paying him, what corners does he cut when they aren't ? I'm sure he's a decent mechanic for you, but a blocked coolant passage can fry and engine, warp a head....on any car, not just a Protege.

                          oh BTW, it's D-Supa

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Like you said, a blocked coolant passage is a possibility but I stuck my finger in there just out of curiousity of how much rust was inside. There wasn't. It was only on the plug due to its material. The space is not large enough for the old plug to completely block the passage but it can reduce some of the amount of liquid moving through there--at least on this car. I imagine it's about the same with most. I also find it next to impossible for it to move around as far as the water pump, etc. It's like too much room for blockage but not enough room for plug movement. It's the type of space that makes it that way. It's like very flat for movement but a lot of space from top to bottom for liquid movement. The round shape of the cylinders would keep the plug from moving from left to right. If anything, it would only move up and down. Anyway, looks like that's the end for this topic. Thanks for the observations. ........ Jorge

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hey, my name is Darrell!


                              "Mazderati"
                              91 LX DOHC 5 speed V8 stocker
                              Pioneer DEH-550MP, Infinity 6002i's, Pioneer 6x9s
                              Uniden PC76XL w/ Astatic Road Devil & 5' Wilson Silverload

                              1982 Jeep Wagoneer Brougham
                              AMC 360 V8, 4-speed, 4x4

                              Comment

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