Ok, I have a issue. just recently installed subs with cap. Well, when playing it loud for several minutes, the mids and HIs (regular car speakers) just cut in and out but the sub continues to play. its strange, I have never seen this before. Could it possible be that the wires on the speakers are wired inverted to the Head Unit? Meaning the positive is wired to the negative wire coming from the Head unit. Also could it be that too much power is being pushed through the speakers. I know the front is infinity speakers but, I think they are some cheap infinitys. Anyhow let me know what you guys think could be the problem. Thanks alot!!!!
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DO WHAT YOU DO!!!
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not enough power in the headunit to power the mids and highs. Thats what it sounds like to me.
Whats the wattage on the speakers? and what the wattage on the headunit?
I would just need a little more info before i can be sure but thats what it sounds like.. -
Originally posted by 95Protege View Post
Ok, the head unit 45wx4. The speakers I dont know. Even if the headunit didnt have enough power to push out, wouldnt this be seen even at low volume levels? B/C right now this problem only occurs when playing @ high volume levels.
what about too much power? What would be some smpytoms for that?
Appreciate your help!!!!
Also some FYI, the HD and Subs were in another car that worked fine!DO WHAT YOU DO!!!
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It is not enough power so what its doing is cutting the power to the speakers to keep the radio from burning up. Mine does the exact same thing cause i got boston acoustics that are rated more power than the head unit provides causing it to cut out.
If i leave it on low volume its fine but when i turn it to max it cuts the volume off then i have to turn the radio off and back on to reset it..Comment
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Speaker Questions?
Originally posted by 95Protege View Post
So how come this doesnt happen to all speakers? I mean arent most speakers rated higher than the HD? So when it says 45 watts by 4, does this mean that it is pushing 45 watts to each of the speakers? If that is true then most speakers would be rated higher than what the unit can produce?
Are you saying that the Ohms level is to small causing it to allow more wattage to be sent to the speakers, in turn causing them to draw more power from the HD, which cutts itself off and on to prevent itself from overheating or burning itself up? what kind of HD do you have? THis one is a cheap Sony?
So what would be the best solution to this problem, so that the HD doesnt have to be turned off and back on? Buy a different HD or what?DO WHAT YOU DO!!!
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When you speakers stop playing does the deck still have power? Does the deck screen flicker or fade at all? Does your deck have a setting where your can turn the built in amplifier on and off? This could be happening for alot of reasons but it could be slimed down if you know did your components start acting up before or after you put in your system. We'll go from there...A green glow and bass does not mean UFO's are comin. Its just me
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Yes the Deck still has power...subs still play when problem occurs. Nope no screen flicker. I dont know if it has the option to turn the built in amp off... its not that technical of a HD. Well we dont know if the componets were working fine before, the compents were never pushed that high! I talked to him today and he said that lately it hasnt been doing it. let me know what ya think.DO WHAT YOU DO!!!
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Well I should have checked your thread reply before sending you a message back lol. Disregard that then. If it wasn't a power issue then it might have been wiring. A guy with the same problem came by yesterday and his neg and pos wiring was wrong. Once we fixed it it played fine though. If it does it again later just check all the wiring again.A green glow and bass does not mean UFO's are comin. Its just me
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One thing that's being overlooked here is the fact that even though the head unit is 45x4 watts, that's not RMS and since it's a cheap Sony, it's only able to push 17watts RMS at the most, but I don't think that's your issue, I ran Polk components through my head unit and Polk 2 channels in the rear and never had this issue and those speakers are rated at 50watts RMS and 110 total for both sets, the only problem I had at high levels was heavy distortion. The 2 channel speakers are still ran through my head unit without issues, but I've amplified the front components.
I think your problem may be with the AMP setup and at the very worst the battery or alternator in the car, you may be drawing more power than the car can deliver without seeing any real affects from your car other than the speakers cutting out. Have you tried creating the same scenario at night with the system up and the head lights on to see if you get heavy flickering or less pep in your cars acceleration? If you don't notice anything like that then my suggestion is to check your AMP setup, it can play a huge role in your stereo performance even if it's just running a Sub, so I'd start there. If you find that it's nothing more than crappy speakers, then may I suggest an Audiobahn 2002T AMP, it's a 2 channel amp with 50watts RMS, but a total power of 500watts and the one I own has held up really well in my system and will run you around $60 on Ebay, just make sure you get it brand new.
Good luck with your problem.
Matt
Looking for an Interplay Bumper!!!!Comment
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First of all your caps are doing nothing. Get rid of them/sell them.
What you need to do now is upgrade your engine, - battery, and alternator grounds. Then upgrade the wire connecting the alternator to the + battery cable.
Once you've done this, take the deck out and ground the deck to something that's not the factory harness, then run a new fused power cable to the deck as if it were an amp (well it is). Keep the factory remote wire and other wires the same.
If you do this it will probably fix your problem, unless your deck is malfunctioning on its own or the issue is one of the deck's output channels are grounding on something (look at the speaker connections).
Also mixing the + and - won't do anything other than cause wave cancellation.Comment
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I think he's fixed it....A green glow and bass does not mean UFO's are comin. Its just me
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He had a cap that was really weird. The place he got it said it was .5 farads and the actual cap said 1.2 on it. It came in a really discounted amp kit deal all for like 70 bucks. Probably no good(random all over it). So he should be getting a new cap hopefully.Originally posted by 1967cutlass View PostA green glow and bass does not mean UFO's are comin. Its just me
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No, hopefully he doesn't get another cap because they are a complete waste of money. Caps are like putting a band-aid on a gunshot wound. Upgrading the wiring under the engine bay will help more than any capacitor ever could.Originally posted by Badger3114 View PostComment
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Message him as soon as you can though. He needs some help and we haven't talked in a while
A green glow and bass does not mean UFO's are comin. Its just me
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Why are caps such a waste of money? I thought the purpose of them were to basically boost the amperage between the amp and the battery when a lot is need at one time? Is this not correct? As of right now, the same setup is in the car and he has not reported any issues out of it lately. Everything is OK. He is though going to change out the HD for something better. Do you guys have any input on what is a reasonable HD for a reasonble price. Myself, l like Apline head units, but I know they can be a little pricey. What about Pioneer? They seems to have good quality but at cheaper price than the alpines. Thanks alot for all you guys help. OH yea, if he did decided to get a better cap, against what was said, who makes a decent one?DO WHAT YOU DO!!!
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