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    Problems with the car

    First of all, I've posted this over at protegeclub.com and it seems like there isn't anybody over there anymore and I'm not barely getting any responses. So here it is... maybe somebody can help me out here.

    Alright I'm pretty upset with my car. Me, my dad, and my friends have been looking at it, messing with it, trying to do everything to make it work correctly... but it isn't. Here are my main issues right now: after about 10 minutes of driving the air/fuel ratio will go over to lean and stay there for the remander of the driving session, the car tends to hesistate between the 2k-3k rpm range... usually when just driving normal speed, and now for some reason my boost controller isn't controlling my boost at all!

    The only thing left to try to resolve the air/fuel readings is buying a new O2 sensor. Because when it says its running lean... it still seems rich because you can smell the fuel, plus I get crappy gas milage. We have messed with the Haltech and played around with the ignition timing at those rpm levels as well as fuel and everything.... and we can't totally resolve that. Even though we have been playing around with the vacuum lines... the line from the wastegate to the boost controller is fine and should be working right like before... but it's not. In turn... the turbo wants to spool up real quick and pull like hell. Plus now I hear my wastegate a lot louder than before, and less of my BOV..... weird stuff.

    I would really appreciate some help and wisdom from you guys.
    Last edited by SpoolinPro93; 09-03-2003, 10:55 PM.
    -Robert
    '93 Protege Turbo LX 5-speed


    -GTX VJ-20 turbo w/ custom downpipe, Haltech E6K Kit w/ 3Bar MAP sensor & O2 sensor (Engine Management System), .040 overbored pistons with slightly raised compression, Resurfaced cylinder head & valve job, GReddy Type-S BOV, Turbo XS boost controller, 450cc injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 22"x9"x3" FMIC, full 3" exhaust w/ Catco Catylic converter & Summit Turbo Muffler, ACT Clutch Kit (stage 2), Uretheane shifter bushing, Triple Gauge Pod w/ Boost, Air/Fuel Ratio, and Oil Pressure gauges, Falken Azenis Sport 195/60HR14 tires on steelies.

    #2
    You would probably get a better response to this in the "forced induction" forum. But have a free bump on me.
    2013 Dodge Dart Aero

    Comment


      #3
      A) yes check your O2

      B) check your engine coolant temperature sensor... (it will be down and right from the disty and has more than one prong..

      C) you are running a wastegate AND and BOV??? you only really need one of these. the vaccum lines must be somewhat more complicated thay what the have to be.
      When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?

      Originally posted by goldstar
      Yes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.

      A Protege driver named Brock
      Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
      So his engine he goosed
      With much too much boost,
      And drove a rod through his block.

      Comment


        #4
        Well I fixed the spark knock by putting the timing back where it should be on the according to placement of the distributor. The engine temperature is fine. Okay so if I don't need the wastegate, can I disconnect the vacuum line from the wastegate and see what happens? I didn't want to try this because I thought the wastegate controlled the boost as well as relieved pressure. :shrug:
        -Robert
        '93 Protege Turbo LX 5-speed


        -GTX VJ-20 turbo w/ custom downpipe, Haltech E6K Kit w/ 3Bar MAP sensor & O2 sensor (Engine Management System), .040 overbored pistons with slightly raised compression, Resurfaced cylinder head & valve job, GReddy Type-S BOV, Turbo XS boost controller, 450cc injectors, Walbro 255lph fuel pump, 22"x9"x3" FMIC, full 3" exhaust w/ Catco Catylic converter & Summit Turbo Muffler, ACT Clutch Kit (stage 2), Uretheane shifter bushing, Triple Gauge Pod w/ Boost, Air/Fuel Ratio, and Oil Pressure gauges, Falken Azenis Sport 195/60HR14 tires on steelies.

        Comment


          #5
          Were you able to get rid of the rich smell when you shifted your timing?
          2002 Silver ES 5-Speed
          1983 F-150 351W

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by SpoolinPro93
            Well I fixed the spark knock by putting the timing back where it should be on the according to placement of the distributor. The engine temperature is fine. Okay so if I don't need the wastegate, can I disconnect the vacuum line from the wastegate and see what happens? I didn't want to try this because I thought the wastegate controlled the boost as well as relieved pressure. :shrug:
            Robert,

            Don't touch those vacuum lines. What I suggest doing is running a line from the wastegate to the intake manifold so you run stock boost for now.

            Now since you've moved the distributor I hope you have adjusted the Trigger Angle in the haltech software to correctly match? You will need to "ZERO" the timing again so that everything is correct. If you need help on that just PM or e-mail me.

            Also, the lean condition may show on your gauge but what does the Haltech read for Air/Fuel mV? When you are cruising the gauge should fluctuate and the haltech mV should go from 100-860mV fluctuations.

            Sometimes the Closed Loop control can be disabled if you have made changes to a map, press CTRL-O and check to see if the feature is ENABLED. If not, enable it so you can get that function working again.

            Lastly, find someone with a wideband o2 sensor to hook up and get your car tuned, I don't want you blowing another motor! If you want to arrange something I can fly out there and tune it.
            -Braden
            '05 WRX

            GTX Groupbuy is Closed! However you can still pick up a GTX motor for only $925!!! PM me for order details!

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