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Diff lock removal and Transfer pump connection

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    Diff lock removal and Transfer pump connection

    When you get rid of the diff locking transmission in the protege, how do you connect the transfer pump? In the GTR, there is a "Fuel pump" unit in place of my diff lock unit. Is there another way to connect that transfer pump?

    I i just leave the connections in the diff lock unit for the fuel pump, PWR and GND, would the pump work?

    #2
    WTF? Pix man, pix.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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      #3
      ok i'll get pix of the unit tonite. Meanwhile here is a pic of the diagram i'm talking about

      Click image for larger version

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      Click image for larger version

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      The circled connections connect to each other

      I'll take a picture of the mystery box when I get home, it's located under the drivers seat.

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        #4
        okay, there are 2 boxes. we're going to assume you mean the 4wd motor and fuel transfer pump box. don't ditch that box, it has the brains for the transfer pump. if you remove it, it will not work. the whole "10 sec timer" thing it does? yeah, that's in the box. if you've got a neat EE friend, have him/her build a timer function if you really want to ditch the box. That's what I'm doing.
        No car! I soldz it. Now I have a truck. I like it, but apparently it has a hard time keeping up with a slightly modified 4WD protege with half the hp. Neat.

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          #5
          Here is a picture for those actually interested.
          Click image for larger version

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          The module is located under the driver's seat

          I guess i'll have to remove the additional wires and just keep the 3 or 4 that I need for the fuel pump to work.

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            #6
            I did that in my pro. I think there were 6-8 wires left (can't remember, in Australia and can't check). do you plan to remove the entire wire run, from the tranny to the module? cause now I don't think its worth it, I'm worrying I might have removed needed wires. eh. guess standalone and a fresh wiring all around!
            No car! I soldz it. Now I have a truck. I like it, but apparently it has a hard time keeping up with a slightly modified 4WD protege with half the hp. Neat.

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              #7
              You can unhook all of the wiring for your diff lock in the engine compartment and leave the wiring for that box inside and your transfer pump should still work. For info I have an escort gt main harness in my engine compartment and have the fuse pulled for the diff lock switch out of my fuse block and my transfer pump still works. also I am running a J-spec GTX tranny as well. I still have that box under the seat hooked up though. Hope this helps
              Jaosn
              Last edited by jasoncsprotege; 07-14-2007, 12:50 AM.
              Yes Its 4wd woot woot
              sigpic

              My Vb Gallery

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                #8
                I have the JDM transfer pump box. It has four wires going into it. They should be the ones at the four corners of the USDM 4wd box. The ones in the middle aren't important.
                1990 Protege 4WD
                GT-X BP26 swap [AT->MT]|Cup holder cut to fit|Synthetic gear oil|Synthetic brake fluid|Corksport SS brake/clutch lines|Mazdaspeed HV oil pump|GT-X front STB|Corksport type I rear STB|Matching full-size spare wheel|Homebrew Brass shifter bushing|Speed Source brass shifter cable bushings|EDM headlights/corners|FMIC|EDM cabin vents

                1 3 5
                ├┼┤
                2 4 R


                Seeking: Canadian 4WD seatbelts.

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                  #9
                  Thanks guys.

                  I swapped for the JDM tranny and got rid of all the wiring for the diff lock. I just kept 4 wires at the box: power, GND, and 2 wires for the pump. Didn't try it yet but should work find.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    have you tried it yet? success?
                    No car! I soldz it. Now I have a truck. I like it, but apparently it has a hard time keeping up with a slightly modified 4WD protege with half the hp. Neat.

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                      #11
                      Nope, was away on vacation and now have to work on the other car, my parent's festiva that blew the brake lines. I'm waiting to get my manual full power under dash harness to swap for mine which is all cut and spliced. Then, i'll add the additional wires for the difflock and 4 wire TPS and try it out. I'll let you know, hopefully after next weekend.

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                        #12
                        fired the car last nite, seems the transfer pump works as I can hear it. So basically you can get disconnect the wiring clip that attaches the the joint box. It only contains diff lock junk. The 4X4 unit is powered by one wire and grounded somewhere in the back.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by jasoncsprotege View Post
                          You can unhook all of the wiring for your diff lock in the engine compartment and leave the wiring for that box inside and your transfer pump should still work. For info I have an escort gt main harness in my engine compartment and have the fuse pulled for the diff lock switch out of my fuse block and my transfer pump still works. also I am running a J-spec GTX tranny as well. I still have that box under the seat hooked up though. Hope this helps
                          Jaosn
                          We did the same thing to my buddys 4wd. It has a protege lx harness and it will have a gtx trans. Its still running the stock US trans right now but will be swapped soon.
                          1990 Protege 4wd: BP05 forged internals, Mild ported head, GTR intake manifold, Gates racing timing belt, GTX transmission, Stage 3 clutch, 60trim T-3 turbo, Custom down pipe,3" Stainles exhaust, , Walbro fuel pump, RB-Performance fmic kit, HKS bov, Aurfa coilovers, F&R drilled slotted rotors, 16" BBS wrapped with Advan Novea tires, EDM glass headlights with HID's, Familia front and rear bumpers.


                          Boosted 1990 4WD
                          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32462


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