so i was trying to see if using a diode to isolate a capacitor to each headlight would actually work, and while it does work, it doesn't work for long
i used a 1/2 farad capacitor and with my crude testing, it showed to be about .5 farad. it dropped about 7 volts in half a second with about an 7.5 amp load. but that means it dropped from 15.82 volts to around 9 volts with only a 100 watt H3 halogen bulb hooked to it. current draw averaged at 7.5 amps. so i'll guestimate that at 1/4 of a second the voltage had already dropped to below 12.8 volts, where normal car batteries run at. and that was only with 100 watts. so the whole 1 farad per 1000 watts is total crap. 1 farad by my test would have lasted 1/2 a second to drop below 12.8 volts. now divide .5 by 10. that means that a 1 farad cap would keep the voltage up above a regular battery for UNDER .05 seconds
i wish i had real test equipment, but i make do with what i've got
course here's the kicker, i tested out my batcap 300 also. i just hooked it up without checking the voltage. after over a minute of the bright ass light blinding me i disconnected it. i charged it back up, and actually checked it this time. it dropped about 1.47 volts in 15 seconds. it went from 11.92 to 10.45 volts. and i figured the amperage to be about 9 amps, since the voltage was lower than with the cap, but i may be mistaken with my logic for that. anyways, by that calculation the batcap is equal to about 92 farads. BUT that's in a lower voltage area. i couldn't get the batcap over 12 volts. i'm going to test it tomorrow in my car, but if it doesn't run over 12 volts on it's own, it's worthless
also, once it hit 15 seconds for testing, every 15 seconds following the first the voltage dropped .2 volts each time. that's where the battery properties come out. the capacitor went completely dead, while the batcap kept putting out juice, even if it was at a low voltage.
to recap: capacitors are worthless. batcaps's could possibly be worthless, unless mine is just dying
i used a 1/2 farad capacitor and with my crude testing, it showed to be about .5 farad. it dropped about 7 volts in half a second with about an 7.5 amp load. but that means it dropped from 15.82 volts to around 9 volts with only a 100 watt H3 halogen bulb hooked to it. current draw averaged at 7.5 amps. so i'll guestimate that at 1/4 of a second the voltage had already dropped to below 12.8 volts, where normal car batteries run at. and that was only with 100 watts. so the whole 1 farad per 1000 watts is total crap. 1 farad by my test would have lasted 1/2 a second to drop below 12.8 volts. now divide .5 by 10. that means that a 1 farad cap would keep the voltage up above a regular battery for UNDER .05 seconds i wish i had real test equipment, but i make do with what i've got course here's the kicker, i tested out my batcap 300 also. i just hooked it up without checking the voltage. after over a minute of the bright ass light blinding me i disconnected it. i charged it back up, and actually checked it this time. it dropped about 1.47 volts in 15 seconds. it went from 11.92 to 10.45 volts. and i figured the amperage to be about 9 amps, since the voltage was lower than with the cap, but i may be mistaken with my logic for that. anyways, by that calculation the batcap is equal to about 92 farads. BUT that's in a lower voltage area. i couldn't get the batcap over 12 volts. i'm going to test it tomorrow in my car, but if it doesn't run over 12 volts on it's own, it's worthless also, once it hit 15 seconds for testing, every 15 seconds following the first the voltage dropped .2 volts each time. that's where the battery properties come out. the capacitor went completely dead, while the batcap kept putting out juice, even if it was at a low voltage. to recap: capacitors are worthless. batcaps's could possibly be worthless, unless mine is just dying
the voltage drop over the diode was .3 volts, BTW. that i did test
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