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    Speaker Mounting:

    Yeah... So recently I have bought new 5-1/4" Speaker to replace my ****TY.... WASTE of CARDBOARD (1994) DX speakers... The things rattle like sin... Anyway... I was looking at my Haynes Manual to learn how to take my inner door trim efficiently (cause its cold) and noticed that the OEM speaker only have 3 mounting screws... and like a little plate that houses the speakers snuggly.

    As you all know most aftermarket speakers have 4 mounting screw holes, Does that mean I'm gonna have to drill? no biggie but I just wanted to know if anyone else had this problem...

    Please, holla back... I'm bored and I wanna play with this car this weekend

    1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
    1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
    2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
    2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

    Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

    #2
    Most likely you'll have to drill a hole. I think one of my speakers only has 3 screws in it while most have 4. Try it. If it doesn't seem secure...drill a 4th hole in it. It's not a hard task and it'll only take a second. I'm not sure about the 1G though. My stock speakers were 6.5s

    <marquee>'97 Tan LX 5-speed-Clear corners, "poor mans" grill, 15in. Gunmetal/Polished Konig Holes covered with Dunlop GT Qualifiers, B&M short shifter installed and lovin it, custom leather black leather boot, MazdaSpeed Shift knob, Eibach Pro-Kit, Custom cold air intake Head Unit-Pioneer DEH-3500MP Speakers-Sony Xplod XS-V1621(3-way)6.5s(Front Doors) Infinity 652i(2-way)6.5s(Rear Doors) Pioneer TS-A6990R(5-way)6x9s(Rear Deck) Amps-Kenwood KAC-7201/Pioneer GM-X352 Subs-2-JL 12 W3s in Dual box, redone LED 3rd brake light(doesn't look like crap anymore). More I.C.E. on the way.</marquee>
    Formerly '90 White Miata w/ 2 8" Laser Blue stripes
    I hate the short nose crankshaft. It took my car away from me.

    Comment


      #3
      some speakers come with a **** ton of holes in them for any type of mounting, but if your's only have 4 holes, you can either secure it as best you can, or drill some new holes

      Comment


        #4
        Aaaaaaaaah drilling we will gooooo ,
        Aaaaaaaaah drilling we will gooooo ,
        Bout to Bust some holes in tha Pro,
        Aaaaaaaaah drilling we will gooooo ....

        Yeah... I said it....
        1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
        1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
        2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
        2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

        Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

        Comment


          #5
          lol, well.. even with the various aftermarket speaks available, the 3 hole design of your stock speaks is obviously offset in a way that an aftermarket speaker with only 4 holes, you can only get one in.. not the 2, 3, or 4 you would need to consider it 'stable'. my suggestion on this was just grab a cordless drill, a 1/4 nut driver, and some self tapping hvac zaps.. they may take a little careful drill work to keep the shaft from sliding off into the cone of the speaker, and a little bit of pressure, but no misdrilled holes, and a HELL of alot tighter fit than those dinky ****s they give you to screw the speakers in. good luck.
          peace
          also, i recommend this because if you become and Audiophile like a bunch of peeps on here are self-proclaimed, NOTHING beats the ease of hvac zap screws.. i can change my front speakers in and out in 10 minutes TOPS! just a matter of how you play the game

          Comment


            #6
            Good point... Ive never even heard of those Zap things your talking about? hmmm
            1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
            1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
            2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
            2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

            Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

            Comment


              #7
              Self-tapping hex-head sheet metal screws = "zaps"

              ~HH

              Comment


                #8
                This might help. You have probably done it already but for anyone else. These brackets http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XFEdugZ...peaker+adapter make it so you don't have to drill holes and some just adapt bigger speakers for smaller holes.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Well ****, who wants to PAY for stuff like that? Bust out the drill...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    When I bought my 5.25" speakers I mounted them on the same 'plate' (for a lack of a better word) that the oem speakers were mounted on. The one with the plastic shielding over it. Mount the speaker to the 'plate' and then it'll go in the same way as the oem speakers. I am no audio expert, but 5.25" is way too small. I ended up upgrading them to 6.5" half a year later and was much more happy with how they sounded. 6.5" fit just fine and if you're spending some money on speakers, you might as well get something you'll be happy with in the long run.
                    -------------------------
                    '91 LX
                    '03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
                    -------------------------

                    Originally posted by pigeon
                    well if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound

                    while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height

                    Comment


                      #11
                      hey identity...what kind of sound system set up you got going on in your protege? i've always wondered . seriously, those self tapping sheet metal screws are awesome as hell, no drilling involved and hold tight like a mother ****er. only downside is getting the speaker to center in the hole properly, cause eitherwise, you risk wiring dillemas, the magnet possibly just getting stuck to the door frame, or might buldge out of the door a little bit (found this VERY true with some power acoustic speakers). these are minor issues and DON'T happen if you do it right, but nothing beats the ease of self taping screws.
                      peace
                      p.s. they may walk a little if you don't have a STRONG magnetic tipped bit, so be careful

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by demoninvictus
                        hey identity...what kind of sound system set up you got going on in your protege? i've always wondered .
                        My deck is a 200watt Sony but I just got a JVC sh55 last week. I have 6.5" 3-way Xplods in the front. (sony does suck but at least they are better than the 5.25" I had prior). With a lot of cutting of sheet metal I managed to install 6x9's in the back. They are Pioneer 4-way. I also have 2 10's in the back, Pioneer IMPP 500watt each Amp is some generic brand, but is surprisingly good (1000watt). To be honest with you, it's too loud for me. I like listening to music loud, but with the subs on I can't do it for extended periods of time. I am not spending even a dime more on anything audio related anymore.......wasted too much money that could've gone for a good front mount intercooler and other turbo goodies Oh yeah, I sound deadened the entire floor, doors and rear deck also.
                        -------------------------
                        '91 LX
                        '03 Mazdaspeed Protege #235
                        -------------------------

                        Originally posted by pigeon
                        well if you're a fan of inaccuracy and uncertainty.... then by all means, go set your timing by feel and sound

                        while you're out there, you might as well adjust your air/fuel ratio by smell... and your tire pressure by ride height

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yeah... this thread is super old... ha ha.. but yea... i ended up drillin with the 5.25's... and they were better sounding than the busted cardboard ones that were factory in the dx's... anyway... i put 5.25's in the back and front... and it sounds better than before... but I am not happy with the sound like you said... I plan on upgrading again like you said... Peace Yall...

                          Ameen
                          1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
                          1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
                          2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
                          2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

                          Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

                          Comment

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