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    Strut Bar

    Got a new strut bar on yesterday that I ordered from ebay around a week ago. Went on pretty simple, only thing is I had to delete my cruise. But tht is in the works to be put back on as soon as the rain breaks.

    Here is the only picture I have of it now.



    For $25 I have to say it was a steal. I had to drill one hole in each plate before mounting seeing that the older Pro's had the 4 bolt setup. I would recomend one, it was a 15 minute job with drilling the holes.
    This is my BP. There are many like it but this one is mine. My BP is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my BP is useless. Without my BP I am useless. I must drive my BP true. I must drive straighter than my enemy, who is trying to beat me. I must beat him before he beats me.

    #2
    Nice! I was thinking about getting a strut brace for my car. What about those carbon made? I love the simplicity and durability of carbon.
    Garage: Mazda Protege 1995, Z5 engine, MTX, P/S, no A/C, no ABS.

    PM me if you need: comprehensive Autodata information; Mazda's 2nd generation workshop manual; Mazda's Z5 overhaul workshop manual.

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      #3
      do you notice a difference in how the car handles? or rides? simple cheap, but useful? just wondering.
      sigpic

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        #4
        I bought one from a member a while back. An ebay one as well. Maybe the same one. I had the guys cut the bracket so that it fit right. Cornering is much smoother.
        Attached Files

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          #5
          Originally posted by sanblaster1 View Post
          I bought one from a member a while back. An ebay one as well. Maybe the same one. I had the guys cut the bracket so that it fit right. Cornering is much smoother.
          COuld I get a close up picture of the way your Cruise mounts before I go cutting on mine, to get a generalized idea of how to make it stay sturdy. Please?

          And yeah, it feels a little tighter, I havent really opened it up in a turn or two yet, the rain hasn't slacked off here and I have a REALLY bald tire on one corner. Working on a budget sucks, but its better than working without a budget. Edit, I REALLY need to clean my underhood are also, sorry guys, I am that slob. x.x That and the ****ing rain...
          Last edited by superscort93; 12-14-2007, 04:58 AM.
          This is my BP. There are many like it but this one is mine. My BP is my best friend. It is my life. I must master it as I must master my life. Without me, my BP is useless. Without my BP I am useless. I must drive my BP true. I must drive straighter than my enemy, who is trying to beat me. I must beat him before he beats me.

          Comment


            #6
            with a strut bar, in the BHA's, you could put the power down much sooner while exiting a corner

            saved a lot of wheel spin/hop on my car

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              #7
              Originally posted by superscort93 View Post
              COuld I get a close up picture of the way your Cruise mounts before I go cutting on mine, to get a generalized idea of how to make it stay sturdy. Please?

              Yeah, I'll see if I get a chance this weekend.

              Comment


                #8
                Is an uninstalled strut bar shorter than distance between cups? Let me put it another way - is it effective only in cornering (not letting struts to become off in corellation to each other) or does it pull struts together already if it's just installed?

                Has anyone figured out how to place the rear strut bar? Which would be better, low or high? If you wanna install the high rear bar you must place it right below the rear window? So it is probably visible.
                Garage: Mazda Protege 1995, Z5 engine, MTX, P/S, no A/C, no ABS.

                PM me if you need: comprehensive Autodata information; Mazda's 2nd generation workshop manual; Mazda's Z5 overhaul workshop manual.

                Comment


                  #9
                  The strut bars "lock" the strut towers in place. So whatever your alignment is set at, will remain true under hard cornering because the chassis is unable to flex. It doesn't actually "pull" anything together, or make any changes. It just prevents unwanted changes.

                  As for the rear strut tower bars, check out this thread.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    interesting thread there pigeon best of luck pulling together the support you need
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                      #11
                      Dirty Pic
                      Attached Files

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                        #12
                        Hey Santos... is that bolt in the lower right hand corner of the picture one of your upper strut mount bolts??

                        The brackets from the strut bar isn't allowing it to be fully seated against the strut tower, and that could be farking with your alignment

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                          #13
                          that cutout design for the end-plate is horrible, you truely want the full circle design. it would give optimum ability to redrill holes anywheres.
                          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by pigeon View Post
                            Hey Santos... is that bolt in the lower right hand corner of the picture one of your upper strut mount bolts??

                            The brackets from the strut bar isn't allowing it to be fully seated against the strut tower, and that could be farking with your alignment
                            Yes. What do you recommend? Just removing the bolt? I'm not pulling or anything. At least it doesn't seem like it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by bpt323 View Post
                              that cutout design for the end-plate is horrible, you truely want the full circle design. it would give optimum ability to redrill holes anywheres.

                              I'm not spending $200 on a strut bar Ryan. I have bills to pay.

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