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Mazda 3 2004

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    Mazda 3 2004

    Does anybody knows what size speaker will fit in the stock doors as I would like to upgrade the four of them.

    Also how difficult is it to remove the factory radio as I want to install a RF MP3/CD changer so I need to get back there to run it through the antenna.

    Hopefully when a new mounting plate comes in I will then change the deck that can control the changer and remove the FR adaptor.

    Thanks
    Last edited by M3turboca; 12-16-2003, 03:28 PM.
    I also drive a AA Turbo Bmw E36/M3 setup last Dynojet 248c 369rwhp & 354ft/lbs at 10.5psi.

    #2
    no info that i know of, yet looking at the brochure, it looks like a dash kit will be a ways off for putting in an aftermarket HU, so i'd look into good line output converters from david navone.


    as for the front speakers, they look like 6.5's. all i can see is the door from the brochure, but it does look like a round speaker, rather than the current 6x8/5x7 crap we've got it comes with 4 or 6 speaker sound system, so i assume the 6 speaker one is just added tweeters up front. speakers won't be your problem, the HU will, though.

    for adding a changer, i'd just get the 6 disc changer option for it. the HU looks like it'll be a pain to get out. it's goin to involve taking all the A/C controls and center vents

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      #3
      Thanks for the reply.

      I got to go ask the service dept how to remove the radio so I can add a RF ch changer that I picked up today.

      The dealer add the options and they want too much money for the 6 disc Rip Off $600+

      Yes in the door it looks like 6 1/2" damm but how do I remove the panel I want to upgrade the speakers right away.

      I can live with the factory head unit for now and want to add a single 10" sub.

      Want to install the rf changer this week
      I also drive a AA Turbo Bmw E36/M3 setup last Dynojet 248c 369rwhp & 354ft/lbs at 10.5psi.

      Comment


        #4
        for adding a sub, look into line output converters from david navone.


        as for removing the door, i can't tell you how to do it, since i've never even seen one in person, yet. basically you can try the top down method. remove every bolt, screw, fastener from the top down, then pull on the arm rest/handle to see if that pulls off to reveal more screws. also remove the triangle at the top forward most part that covers the bolts for the side view mirrors. pull on the door release handle to see if that comes loose. then pull on the bottom edge of the door. most doors have fasteners on the back side along the bottom, which should just pop out. once the bottom is pulled loose, you should be able to see if there is anywhere that is still hanging up. if it's not hanging up, then push from the bottom upwards on the door panel to get it out of the grove between the window and the metal behind the door panel. once it's loose, unplug the wiring harnesses and manuever the door release handle through the hole in the panel and the panel should be totally free to set somewhere else i hope that helps

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          #5
          6 x 8 speakers in all doors

          Dropped off the car to get 20% tint all around and my friend who does the tinting removed the door panels for me and yep its all 6 x 8 speakers all round the cheap dual cone ones.

          He does this to tint the car below the rubber felt where it seal the window.

          The car is well insulated to keep road noise down on each of the door there is a hard plastic covering 80% of the door panel that is screwed down with a padding lined against the door panel to plastic to keep noise and vibration down. pretty good for a cheap car

          Crap and I ordered 5 sheets of this it's like dynomat and very light weight 1/2 the weight of a normal sheet. My brother that lives in Miami is bringing it up for me. I think I will remove the front seats and do the floor in the spring as i want the car quiet

          I will line the trunk and the rear deck there.

          They sell cheap subs for car and home

          Last edited by M3turboca; 12-16-2003, 06:03 PM.
          I also drive a AA Turbo Bmw E36/M3 setup last Dynojet 248c 369rwhp & 354ft/lbs at 10.5psi.

          Comment


            #6
            that's good that they invested in more insulation i'd swap the 6x8's for some components

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              #7
              I would love to

              But I lease the car for 4 years that way I can get a new car through my business.

              So I dont want to cut up the doors.

              I think that I might put the liner on the door and then screw back the plastic sound panel over it in the spring to reduce noise even more ??
              I also drive a AA Turbo Bmw E36/M3 setup last Dynojet 248c 369rwhp & 354ft/lbs at 10.5psi.

              Comment


                #8
                give me a few weeks and i might have some adapter plates and baffles made of MDF and fiberglass to mount components and tweeters in the stock 6x8 hole i have from the 20th of dec to the 4th of jan off from the army, so i'll be home working on a few projects, and that's one of them

                what do you mean by putting a liner on the door? if you want to reduce road noise even more, you can get some thin carpet padding an use some double stick tape to hold it to the door, till the panel's on, and that will reduce some of the road noise

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                  #9
                  geez is it just me or does anyone else thing of road head when u read road noise?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by asylum24
                    geez is it just me or does anyone else thing of road head when u read road noise?

                    get cock off your mind, and you won't be thinking about giving road head when you read road noise

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Liner

                      Blue what I meant by liner is the dynomat type sound damping sheet that I ordered.

                      I ordered 5 sheets. I think it should work much better than carpet padding as it bonds to the surface damping the resonance and vibration of the door.

                      Since the door is insulated already I will do the floor boards in the spring.

                      I noticed that under my hood there was no insulation but the model that I drove had it so I ordered one from Mazda on Tuesday with the clips.

                      The car is pretty quiet but I want it silent.
                      I also drive a AA Turbo Bmw E36/M3 setup last Dynojet 248c 369rwhp & 354ft/lbs at 10.5psi.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        dynamat doesn't do much for noise blockage, it just reduced sheet metal vibration.

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