Need microtech help

[svenspeed]

installed running, got it smoothed out. Is there any way that you can get a map from someone else or a log file that I can see so that I can compare tunes. I am running a GTR.

Also it has been said that there is already a base map for that engine at least the GTX. If so does it automatically change to it when I set it up for 4 cyl or is there somewhere that it is more specific. Any help would be appreciated as the book really sucks.

-STEVE

[swalltr207jg]

no way of really getting a log file that I know of, u can just compare paramaters, this is one of the frustrations I have with it, as well as the turn around time when getting an upgrade or such, I have one installed on my car if you have any questions send me a pm..........if you got it from a microtech dealer for the correct engine it should be set up with a basic map that will get your car running.....however its very basic and if you have differences like different sized injectors it'll throw the whole map out on the rich side......the basic map is very rich to start with

[svenspeed]

I ended up getting mine from CS. They aren't a whole lot of help though, although they did let me borrow the laptop adapter. As for the current situation I had it idling smooth and took it out on a minor run although my TPS will not read past 12% and I can never get it to zero out. That is one problem. The other is I was in the config menu today set it at 00 for the test everything started clicking like crazy... Well now I get no flashing light from the distributor saying that I have no spark or whatever. On the ecu error screen everything checks out but RPM and it just says error. I wish that it would say more than that. So my thoughts were that it burned something up in the dist. and I need a new TPS. Am I correct on this one? I am only running a single coil from the ign. output 0. Also meaning I am using the factory ignitor and condensor. Could one of these two things also cause the RPM fault?

I really need help on this as it seems there really isn't a whole lot out there.

Current setup:

Microtech LT10S

GTR Rods
GTR Intake
GTR Turbo
GTR 460cc inj, running high impedance... Can I run low with MT?
Weisco 9.1 pistons
AEM Uego wideband/gauge
AutoMeter EGT gauge/sensor
Med/Large IC 2.5: piping
HKS SSQV BOV
Spec Stage 3 clutch
Fidanza aluminum flywheel (stock one was warped thought I would try it)
2.5" exhaust no cat/res Flowmaster muffler
BP05 Head (I screwed up the GTR head will create hot spots valves good though)
2" dual core civic radiator
Solid Tranny mount all the others filled or poly inserts
Short shifter w/ brass bushings
All new struts and springs + sway bar end links
Front and rear tie bar (CS)
CF Hood
Drift Body kit barely installed. My bumpers were messed up I don't like it all that much oh well.
17" Konig Rims w/ Nitto Neo Gen tires all new

All of this is in a 91 Escort GT
Some lists may be better but oh well.

How does this one compare to yours. If it is similar I would really appreciate some screen shots sent to me. You can do it with this freeware program I found on download.com. Otherwise it is like you said there is no way to transfer the maps.

-Steve

[swalltr207jg]

my setup is silmilar cept im running 550's for injectors, and yes u can run low or high impedence injectors. do u have it set up to run normal mode or matrix.......Im running mine in matrix mode now......also an lt10s, as far as the rpm error code that could be a few things i would double check the wireing to make sure its connected correctly to the ignitor and the ig module. also check the plug from the ditsy to the lt10 mine had a bad plug and when it was wiggled it would throw an rpm fault as far as your tps sensor is it a 4 wire or 3 wire? and u made sure to calibrate it to zero correct?
-

[MazdaTGTS]

I ended up getting mine from CS. They aren't a whole lot of help though, although they did let me borrow the laptop adapter. As for the current situation I had it idling smooth and took it out on a minor run although my TPS will not read past 12% and I can never get it to zero out. That is one problem. The other is I was in the config menu today set it at 00 for the test everything started clicking like crazy... Well now I get no flashing light from the distributor saying that I have no spark or whatever. On the ecu error screen everything checks out but RPM and it just says error. I wish that it would say more than that. So my thoughts were that it burned something up in the dist. and I need a new TPS. Am I correct on this one? I am only running a single coil from the ign. output 0. Also meaning I am using the factory ignitor and condensor. Could one of these two things also cause the RPM fault?

I really need help on this as it seems there really isn't a whole lot out there.

Ok lets start with the TPS calibration. Go to the TPScal with the ignition on but not the engine, increase or decrease the percentage until the yellow led on the ECU turns on. Then check again if it goes to 0 to 99 percent.

About the config menu if the value in the Config screen is set to 0, the computer will shut off the fuel pump and simulate the engine running at 1800rpm. The injectors (and the spark plugs in ignition control set-ups) will be pulsed, to check whether the ECU is functioning correctly. The clicking sound is normal. Make sure you put it back to 4

Use this diagram to setup you ignition correctly

LT8MIT-MAZ4CYLign.pdf

Use the pinout type #4 to wire up your CAS and the Mitsubishi ignition module single coil / dist setup. You dont need the condensor.

Then go the InpTrig and SparkTrig/Ouput Trig and setup both to +POS or TWIN. Anyway this values should not be negative.

The engine should start by now. If dont, check for spark and fuel.

About the injectors you can use low and high imp. injectors with the Microtech.

If you have any other questions let me know.

[svenspeed]

Well I had it running good enough at one point to drive it was just worried about opening it up. I still have yet to figure out the spark problem. No little blinking yellow light and I am curious as to which wire feeds this signal to give it an RPM fault. Could it be the Dist.? is therea way to check the signal wire from it to make sure or what voltages I am looking at to find it otherwise. i just hate the fact that it did run and now it won't start at all after I didn't change a single thing.

As for the Wot fuel map and cruise map..... WTF why are there more than one? I somewhat understand but it makes no sense to me why you would need more than one.

-Steve

[svenspeed]

also my TPS will never zero out. I can't get it lower than 2% and at WOT it will only go as high as 13%. I am assuming the TPS is screwed up and that was my main problem for the car falling on it's face at WOT on the GTR ECU.

-Steve

[svenspeed]

Ok I got it to start again, the input trigger was neg for some reason don't know how that happened.

Although now it runs like crap. and I am unsure when I save and load the maps it always says saving. Am I doing this right on the load?

-Steve

[MazdaTGTS]

also my TPS will never zero out. I can't get it lower than 2% and at WOT it will only go as high as 13%. I am assuming the TPS is screwed up and that was my main problem for the car falling on it's face at WOT on the GTR ECU.

-Steve

I think the problem is that you wired incorrectly the TPS. Because you have the GTR intake I asume that your using the 4 wire TPS that comes to that intake and the plug.

Check this:

Microtech TPS plug

Blue wire --> Green/Red
Gray --> Green/White
Brown --> Black/Red

The last wire the red one you will not use it.

Then follow the procedure to calibrate the TPS again.

[MazdaTGTS]

Well I had it running good enough at one point to drive it was just worried about opening it up. I still have yet to figure out the spark problem. No little blinking yellow light and I am curious as to which wire feeds this signal to give it an RPM fault. Could it be the Dist.? is therea way to check the signal wire from it to make sure or what voltages I am looking at to find it otherwise. i just hate the fact that it did run and now it won't start at all after I didn't change a single thing.

As for the Wot fuel map and cruise map..... WTF why are there more than one? I somewhat understand but it makes no sense to me why you would need more than one.

-Steve

Double check your wiring that goes to the CAS. If everything OK check with another CAS just to make sure.

[svenspeed]

purrs like a kitten although I can't even adjust the fuel maps or timing for idle as it always thinks the tps is open 2% I will check it tomorrow morning. I am also in hopes that you guys can help me get this thing fairly reliable by tues, not worried about boost at this point. Also my car runs like crap under matrix mode instead of on normal maps. Is this normal?

Also anyone that has and engine setup close to mine I would really like what you have entered into your timing and fuel maps so that I can have a better base tune to start with. As I also understand if you are running bigger injectors I will need to change it a little.

Please don't make me take a MS2 map and convert everything. That would be a pain and I don't think that anyone even has a fuel map setup pictured on here.

-Steve

[therieldeal]

there are a bunch of guys on fordlaser.com running microtech (and other standalones). i tried and tried to get an ignition map from one (any) of them, but everyone there was all "z0mg i dont want to be liable if you blow up your motor, so i'm not sharing maps". you can try if you want, though.

[swalltr207jg]

if your tps problem isnt the wiring or the actual sensor, or your setup with the software, u might have to manually adjust the actual sensor, theres 2 screws that u can unscrew and then move the sensor till it reads zero, rpmcrs is for cruise maps where you can set a leaner map that the ecu will default to when under a certain vacume, rpm wot is for wide open throttle maps that the ecu will switch to when the throttle is greater than a certain percentage, load is for everything else, I prefer the matrix mode though because it gives a much wider range of points to tune so u dont have areas of your map that get all wacky

[svenspeed]

I can't get mine to run worth a crap in matrix mode.
As for normal it can get it to idle decent and it revs ok.
As for the TPS I had one wire wrong and it will now read the full range but no matter how I adjust it it will never see below 14%. WTF. Is there a temporary way around this that i could make it run well enough to drive it like this. i am assuming the idle map will not be very useful if at all due to this reason.

The biggest thing that may help me to better understand what is going on is if someone can download the software that I have linked below and take screen shots if they have a similar setup. I know every engine is different, it would just help to give me a better of what my engine should be close to.

Then at least we would all be on the same page.

-Steve

[svenspeed]

http://www.download.com/ScreenHunter/3000-2192_4-10063246.html?tag=lst-2&cdlPid=10732691

Sorry