How did YOU estimate how much deadener you needed?

[Kevin]

Well, i know Dave Cameron is the one who has taken on this project, but as part of my 'revamp' for my car, i want to see how feasible it would be to do the entire floor pan of my car and the doors (forget the roof liner). main idea being killing the road noise in my first gen lx. only thing is, i want something i can just throw down (entire floor pan fully stripped and cleaned prior) and not take me more than say 6 hours for a solid 1 full layer covering everything from bottom foot of firewall to underneath the back seat cushion. i am very comfortable tearing the carpet, seats and cushions out.. and cleaning i couldn't imagine taking that long with a vaccum cleaner and some simple green. the only thing i don't understand is should i use a foil backed product for the entire project? what mil thickness would you recommend me throwing down? how many square feet could i be looking at. i can't find dave's numbers for the mazda speed, but if somebody could give me a rough guestimate, it would be much appricieated. by my 5 minute measuring job, i was gauging about 70 sq ft to do all four doors and the floor.. does this sound about right? thanks for your help ahead of time
peace

[blue LEDz]

well, if you really want to reduce road noise, you could try some of this:

http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html

standard mat isn't going to do that much for blocking road noise it's more for reducing sheet metal vibrations. i've tried some carpet padding over the foil backed mat for great results. unfortunately i haven't found a good cure all for reduced road noise and sheet metal insulation the new e-dead stuff might be better at reducing road noise than mat, but i'm not sure, since i haven't tried it. 70 sq feet was enough to do my roof twice and my floor once, so it might be enough to do your floor and doors. i'd recomend doing a layer of mat on the outer metal of your door, and the inner metal. worry about your doors before your floor. all your floor might need is a quick spray with truck bed liner to seal it up better, and a layer of carpet padding, which you can get for pretty damned cheap, if not free from a local carpet place. just ask for large scraps

[Kevin]

eh, i bit the bullet and decided to get 80 sq ft of e-dead v.1. not really sure how much i really bought as in terms of what 80 sq ft will cover, but i figure twice on the doors, a close to solid sheet on the floor pan, and a realignment of my trunklid. now being as the temperature will probably be lower than 50 degrees outside maybe down to thirty, i'm banking on having a heat gun to make the application go smoothly. is there anything else obvious that you can think of that i should use on this baby to make sure it'll adhere? thanks a bunch
peace

[blue LEDz]

get a wallpaper roller to apply it a pair of utility scissors and a box cutter with extra blades you don't need to clean up the metal before you apply it, but i'd recomend it, just make sure whatever you clean it with dries thoroughly before you apply it. and of course beer, lots of beer:p: bandaids too, just in case you cut yourself

[Intruder]

Originally posted by blue LEDz
get a wallpaper roller to apply it a pair of utility scissors and a box cutter with extra blades you don't need to clean up the metal before you apply it, but i'd recomend it, just make sure whatever you clean it with dries thoroughly before you apply it. and of course beer, lots of beer:p: bandaids too, just in case you cut yourself

one thing I would add is gloves or something to cover either your hands or the roller...
when I was doing this to my car I found out that after a while it got painful to roll the deadener. some of the sticky goo from it got on the roller and the thing got really sticky. so sticky that after using it for a while it would exfoliate your skin and that ain't nice! I used some rubber gloves the second day but then my hands got sweaty and felt sticky inside the gloves... yuck .... then I resorted to just using the paper used to cover "the glue" on the deadener to wrap the handle of the roller and hold it that way...

oh yeah, I assume you would know that already but just in case -- don't wear anything you wouldn't mind throwing away. this ****'s messy and it's impossible to wash off of clothes... so be careful.

I used 70sq feet of Brown Bread and it was enough to cover the rear dash, the floor, half the trunk bed (nothing on the trunk lid) and the two front doors (inside and out). All this, although not the end of the project since I ran out of material, noticeably lowered the road noise and prevented (I can't say eliminated cuz I didn't have a subwoofer at the time) all rattle inside of my car. The only things that rattle right now are my sideview mirrors and my license plate but I didn't use brown bread on those.

go to the old forum (p...club.com) and do a search for brown bread if you want to read more about my experience with this. the thread is titled "Brown bread - dynamat alternative" or something similar to that.

Good luck! It ain't easy...

[Intruder]

Re: How did YOU estimate how much deadener you needed?

Originally posted by demoninvictus
Well, i know Dave Cameron is the one who has taken on this project......

IMO, Dave Cameron is THE MAN when it comes to sound deadening! He helped me out tremendously with his advise.

Originally posted by demoninvictus
...by my 5 minute measuring job, i was gauging about 70 sq ft to do all four doors and the floor.. does this sound about right? thanks for your help ahead of time
peace

I had 70sq feet of B-QUIET Brown Bread.
I used a lot of material to cover the trunk area so if I were to use it on the doors instead and had 10sq feet more, I would have had enough to cover the rear doors as well. So, yeah, I guess you will have enough.

[blue LEDz]

Originally posted by Intruder
one thing I would add is gloves or something to cover either your hands or the roller...
when I was doing this to my car I found out that after a while it got painful to roll the deadener. some of the sticky goo from it got on the roller and the thing got really sticky. so sticky that after using it for a while it would exfoliate your skin and that ain't nice! I used some rubber gloves the second day but then my hands got sweaty and felt sticky inside the gloves... yuck .... then I resorted to just using the paper used to cover "the glue" on the deadener to wrap the handle of the roller and hold it that way...

*cough*pansy*cough*

i guess my hands are so calused (sp?) i don't notice things like that anymore but gloves do help for the sharp edges, cause i do remember cutting myself a few times:p: if you want a protective layer on your skin that lasts 3-4 days, get some polyurethane glue and cover them that crap won't come off once it dries. you can't even peel it off it just has to wear off

[Kevin]

well, i'm actually looking at the possibility of picking up a nice set of Mechanix (sp) brand gloves.. my buddy who helped me deaden my trunk with 12 sq feet of this crap, so i have a good idea (yes, i've already got a Tsunami trunk kit lining the trunk). likewise, this doesn't bother me as i know what i'm in for, the only thing i'm worried about is the temperature!!?? and also, can rip out my carpet and seats and do this project over a few days and still rest my feet on the areas that i've done? at any rate, roller, mechanix gloves and actually, the butt of a screw driver (one of those 6 in one screw drivers) seems to be what he was recommending to me. as far as purposely coating my hands in polyurethane.. forget it bud :p likewise, thanks for your help fellas.
peace

[Intruder]

temperature - I didn't have to heat the material. I was doing it on a hot summer day and all I had to do was cut it... and stick it.

mechanix gloves -- I don't think you would be able to peel the protective layer with those gloves and it would be a hassle to take the gloves off all the time. unless you use only one glove.

resting your feet on the areas you've done -- IMO, not necessary... make sure you roll it nice and you won't have to rest your feet on it. besides, gravity will keep the material in place. it's not like you'll be covering your roof. the doors are OK too... just make sure the material is warm and soft when you apply it, then roll and roll and roll and roll..... and you'll be fine. unless there's a fundamental difference between Brown Bread and eDead you shouldn't have any problems following this procedure...

[Kevin]

oye, i wasted the money on 3-day shipping, only to find out from ed that the shipping will take longer as i placed the order during hte holiday season... DOH'!!! at anyrate, blueledz.. intruder.. is 45 mils a good thickness for deadener? i mean i know they make the overkill crap the v2 thats 60 mils, and FATMAT makes 80 mil stuff. anyway, thanks for your help, i'll keep you posted with some pics when i take on this project.
peace

[Intruder]

Originally posted by demoninvictus
at anyrate, blueledz.. intruder.. is 45 mils a good thickness for deadener? i mean i know they make the overkill crap the v2 thats 60 mils, and FATMAT makes 80 mil stuff.

It depends on your application. If you use it for rattling I guess you can go with the thin stuff. If you want maximum amounts of sound deadening (road noise elimination) you have to use the thickest possible -- the thicker the wall, the better the isolation.

For example, the material I used is 63mil thick while eDead v2 is 60mil (eDead v1 is thinner, so unless it is a superior material it won't provide as much deadening as Brown Bread). On the other hand, I paid $115 for 70sq feet, while you must have paid close to $100.

And last - here's a comparison chart for Brown Bread and Dynamat. You can see that the B-QUIET stuff is much better and much cheaper. http://www.b-quiet.com/compare.html

Originally posted by demoninvictus
anyway, thanks for your help, i'll keep you posted with some pics when i take on this project.
peace

I'm happy to help. And pics... lots of 'em!

[blue LEDz]

i used rammat that's 60 mils thick. basically the same as brown bread and i paid $103 shipped for 70 sq ft

[Kevin]

$127 shipped 3 day for 80sq ft of 45 mil edead v.1. it's not bad for me, considering i'm not paypal verified (could have had 70 sqft of brownbead for under 115 shipped). even with that, i get alot of rattling inhibited by the exhaust around 3,000 rpms, so a solid single coat on the floor and some additional carpet padding will have to do for the floor. but 2 coats at a total of 90 mils on each door and possibly up the firewall a bit should help me out big time . i really havent done the mathematics as far as measuring as i'm not smart enough to try and figure out how much the hump for the console in the center would take to cover, however, 80 square feet should be close enough. i'll call elemental designs and for a few bucks more, i'll down to the ground shipping and pick up an extra 20 square feet. just hope they haven't shipped or packed it up yet :p:
peace

[Kevin]

welp, the **** finally came in the mail, a foot wide and 80 feet long.. however cut into 3 seperate rolls and shipped in 2 seperate boxes. this is some decent quality ****.. i'd love to know who makes it for elemental designs, but even still should do the job nicely. to compliment the e-dead, i went out and bought 60 square feet of hartex synthetic 'hair' carpet padding for the floor and possibly the doors. basically, this stuff is supposed to have a long life and prevent moisture build up. application process might not start until next week, but the stripping of the interior happens on thursday.. i'll have the carpet/padding, floor mats, center console out and the floor cleaned.. so is my goal, but i can only do so much in 32 degree weather... i wish i got this **** last week, it was warm as hell . likewise.. a little slice of this crap attatched to a campbells soup can and a lighter (give me a break, i was bored and was curious if the **** would stick), this puppy ain't going nowhere once i get 300 degrees out of a heat gun fired at it . keep ya posted.. and pics as soon as possible :p:
peace

[Kevin]

well, after 6 straight hours of sitting on the cold hard floor pan of my car and 1 cut and 1 burn from the dull razor and my heat gun, the floor pan is complete. it was about 35 degrees out all day, so i let the car run most of the time to keep the cabin of the car warm. didn't get that far up the firewall, but managed to get close to 95% of the floor pan fully covered, the other areas, i'm not too concerned about. but the one question for you guys is, is it alright to use multiple pieces of the matting, cause with the shape of the floor pan, i wasn't able to use pieces more than 10x12 inches. it seems that i have way too much left over, so i'm going to probably beef the doors up a bit, do the rear dash again, and if any is left over, do another solid coat on the trunk lid. took about 35 square feet to complete 1 door and the entire floor pan and under the rear seat cushion. i'm happy with the coverage as the hartex will carry over the gaps and help do the real bulk of the insulation. at anyrate.. didn't get entirely too dirty, and all i used was a screw driver, wall paper seem roller, a disposeable razor blade, and 1200 watt heat gun (mofo gets to about 1400 degrees on high
peace