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Ms in a B6-DE Turbo

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    Ms in a B6-DE Turbo

    I'm building my friend's Mx3 with a ms unit from jacob russell and I composed some maps for it. I still have some work to do to finish it.
    Here are the maps.
    It's a B6DE with 8.3 compression and a T2 turbo and 330cc (gtx) injectors
    Any suggestions?
    Attached Files

    #2
    Welp, I hope that unit runs for ya.

    As for the maps, especially the fuel one, no one can tell you if it's right or wrong - you need to tune it with the car running. That table is one of several multipliers that go into calculating your pulsewidth.

    Comment


      #3
      that's an.... interesting spark map.

      I'd crank up the advance at low MAP quite a bit... maybe 38-40 down at 22 kPa. This'll REALLY help fuel economy on cruise. Also, your advance at 100 kPa is probably a couple degrees lower than it should be. I'll fire up my laptop and whip up an adjusted map in just a minute.

      That column of 22 and 23 degree advance for 1000 and 1600 rpm is really not right either.

      edit: Also, do you have a picture of your AFR target table?
      Ask me about engine management!

      Comment


        #4
        alright, I've attached a new spark map which smooths things out a bit and should help your fuel economy a chunk at cruise, and also a fuel map which makes a bit more sense to me, although I have to admit that I haven't used those fuel calcs in a long time (MS2/Extra calculates things differently) so I'm not sure how correct they are... they should get you off to a decent start at least.

        YMMV.

        My advice would be to wire the wastegate open for the first few days of tuning, and get the un-boosted part of the table (where you'll be spending most of your time, most likely... unless you really love pissing away gas ) really well tuned in. Then once you get that part of the table working pretty well, tune in your boosted part by gradually working your boost control valve open, from maybe 3 psi of boost to start with, then 3 more psi at a time, tuning as you go.

        MegaLogViewer is your friend, and best ally. It'll go through your logs, checking against your wideband (you DO have a wideband right?) and adjust your fuel maps for you. It's free, but buy it. The guy who writes it needs all the support he can get.

        If you have an Innovate Motorsports wideband, I'd suggest turning the update rate to 1/6 or even 1/3 seconds. Noise and wall-wetting is a bitch and it'll screw with your tuning, and unless you're running MS2 or MS2/E, there's not too much you can do about the lean spiking on hard acceleration outside of accel enriching it to death. Unfortunately, I don't use the old acceleration enrichment methods so there's not much advice I can give you there.
        Attached Files
        Ask me about engine management!

        Comment


          #5
          Thnx for the help :D
          Here is the afr table.
          I have the lc-1 and I'm wiring it today.
          Oh. And yes, Il be running open wastegate to start. We just disconnect the actuator rod and leave it open. It boosts only over 6k rpm that way.
          Attached Files

          Comment


            #6
            hmmm... the AFR table is only 8x8? lame. In that case, I'd have a bin for 200. 100, 90, 80, 60, 40, 30, and 20 kPa. You're REALLY gonna want the resolution down in the unboosted region, but between 100 and 200 kPa you don't really need it. I could work up a map for you later today.
            Ask me about engine management!

            Comment


              #7
              Here is the wiring.
              I can't run direct coil as the mx-3 distributor has the igniter integrated in it. Do you see any mistakes? Also what sould be the spark settings? Any help will be appreciated :D
              Attached Files

              Comment


                #8
                I managed to make it run. Erraic Idle at first and died when applying the throttle.
                Then we made some adjustments to the ve table and acceleration enrichments, and managed to have a more appropriate idle, far from perfect though. I also have to calibrate the lc1. The coolant temp reading oscilated 3-4 degrees. Is it because of bad grounding? Tomorrow I'll see what I can do with the grounds and log with megalog.
                I did a fan control circuit according to diyautotune but doesn't seem to work :S

                Comment


                  #9
                  Here is a log file of the car. We have done the pwm idle and fan relay mod successfully.

                  even with closed loop disabled, iac at 0 % and no enrichments we can't get a stable idle. even with steady throttle at 10-15% the rpm is hunting up and down... :S
                  Any ideas?
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Your rpm reading is 124800. This is pointing to your problem. The tach signal is either not setup correctly or incredibly noisy. The first option is the more likely one.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I cant wait till the day I understand this...
                      This is lolZz

                      Comment


                        #12
                        sorry. I had rpm x 100 at the megalogviewer...
                        I have all grounds together near megasquirt and 2 fat ground wires, 1 going to the floor and another to the engine block behind the distributor. And another one from there to the battery... Yesterday we grounded the coolant temp sensor directly to the engine block and had a stable reading so I will rip the harness and rewire it, so all sensors are grounded directly to the engine block.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by matt_fulghum View Post
                          alright, I've attached a new spark map which smooths things out a bit and should help your fuel economy a chunk at cruise, and also a fuel map which makes a bit more sense to me, although I have to admit that I haven't used those fuel calcs in a long time (MS2/Extra calculates things differently) so I'm not sure how correct they are... they should get you off to a decent start at least.

                          YMMV.

                          My advice would be to wire the wastegate open for the first few days of tuning, and get the un-boosted part of the table (where you'll be spending most of your time, most likely... unless you really love pissing away gas ) really well tuned in. Then once you get that part of the table working pretty well, tune in your boosted part by gradually working your boost control valve open, from maybe 3 psi of boost to start with, then 3 more psi at a time, tuning as you go.

                          MegaLogViewer is your friend, and best ally. It'll go through your logs, checking against your wideband (you DO have a wideband right?) and adjust your fuel maps for you. It's free, but buy it. The guy who writes it needs all the support he can get.

                          If you have an Innovate Motorsports wideband, I'd suggest turning the update rate to 1/6 or even 1/3 seconds. Noise and wall-wetting is a bitch and it'll screw with your tuning, and unless you're running MS2 or MS2/E, there's not too much you can do about the lean spiking on hard acceleration outside of accel enriching it to death. Unfortunately, I don't use the old acceleration enrichment methods so there's not much advice I can give you there.
                          bax told me to flash the fuel vex.i did it and the car won't even start.
                          i have a rich issue at high rpms,i tried to autotune but says "out of window" what should i do??

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thats what a honda feels like. hahahahahhaaha thats cool.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              you shouldn't be running autotune unless your car is 99% of the way there, and especially not if you can't get it started.

                              If it won't start at all, then it's your cranking pulsewidths that need adjustment. No amount of clanking on the fuel maps will make it start.
                              Ask me about engine management!

                              Comment

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