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    idle problem

    just recently my car died.i noticed the main 30 amp and 30 amp fuel injection fuses had blown i also changed the battery and it started and ran fine. two days later it started idling very rough. i changed the spark plugs and it ran alright til it warmed up and would drop rom's very slightly. i am going to change the plug wires when i get them in the mail but until then, does anyone have any suggestions or ideas of what this could be? i am stumped.

    #2
    i fixed my car but don't know how to delete a post or anything

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      #3
      The silence of no posts means we are stumped. :D Dont delete it, just let us know what you did to repair it so we can learn from it as well. I know that if my car has been running for a little while, warmed up, and I shut it off for 5 minutes, then come back and start it, the RPMs are at almost 400. After a few minutes of driving, it goes back to normal. I still havne figured that one out.
      Mazda
      1988 Black 323 GT
      DOHC 16 VALVE TURBO

      2013 Velocity Red Mica Mazdaspeed3

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        #4
        was up .. im having the same issues .i have a jdm 97 astina motor .. and wene i start the car before work in the mourning it will go to about 2800 rpms them come down .. to 1100 rpms // then i ll get on the high way drive about 10 miles go heavy in to boost get off the high way and the cars starts going up and down in idle btw 900 - 1250 rpm... so i turn it off and turn it back on and it goes away-only wene i really dog it out any clues....

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          #5
          this is kind of a solution i have found. i have been playing around with the iac valve and got my car to idle normally. does anyone know how or have a link to something showing how to adjust the idle air controller? also when adjusting this is it necesary to adjust the idle speed?

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            #6
            pretty sure the problem is the iac valve but don't want to spend the ridiculous amount they want for it. checked for leaks but found none on the vac lines.

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              #7
              Download the FSM. There is an electrical test, to check the resistance and volts. Then there's the air lines, check them to see if the valve is actually opening, or stuck open/shut.
              Then check the coolant lines to see if they are blocked, which will cause the engine to behave as if it is on a cold start, or a hot start when it shouldn't.

              Very straight-forward to check. You just need the manual. Do it. Do it now. Hurry. Why haven't you done it yet?

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                #8
                Can't you run the engine without even having the IAC valve hooked up. All it does is let in more air during a cold engine start. I don't think that would caused a 30amp fuse to blow. But anyways, what's your rpm at idle?
                "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

                Originally posted by neuspeedescort
                the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
                -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
                -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
                -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
                -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
                -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

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                  #9
                  the rpm is at about 850. the fuse has blown since i first posted but the weird idle is still there. i have checked grounds also and they are all secure. i'm going to check for the fsm and re-check the air lines today after work.

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