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    suspension woes

    I have a 1997 protege LX (1.5L) and I'm trying to get the suspension disassembled to replace the driveshafts. I've managed to get the driveaxle nut off (via a dremel), but I cannot seem to figure out the procedure to get the knuckle out of the way to remove the driveaxle. Per the Haynes manual, I disconnected the sway bar link, and I removed the castle nut that holds the tie bar on, but I cannot seem to get the tie bar loose at all -- it seems jammed solid. Is there a particular tool I need to remove this? I also attempted to disconnect the lower balljoint, but the joint shaft is angled inward -- each time I pry it a little loose, the angular force pops the joint back together. I'm worried that if I do pop it loose, I won't be able to reassemble it. I've looked around a bit, but no-one seems to have had quite the same problem as I have. Any help/ideas would be hugely welcome.
    (BTW, I've been working with hand tools only, as I don't have access to an air compressor.)

    #2
    ~You don't have a tie bar unless you have an ES

    ~You don't have to touch the sway bar

    ~You remove the 2 bolts from the strut connecting to the spindle that's it.You're done.
    Beater=/= Sleeper

    Originally posted by kozzman555
    kitty, you are a hilarious woman
    Originally posted by HopelessCow
    there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
    Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

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      #3
      Originally posted by Kitty View Post
      ~You don't have a tie bar unless you have an ES
      Er, I was referring to the steering tie-rod end... the manual had stated that I had to disconnect it to allow the knuckle to hinge up enough to remove the driveshaft.

      Originally posted by Kitty View Post
      ~You don't have to touch the sway bar
      Ditto for the sway bar connector (though the sway bar isn't the problem.)
      Originally posted by Kitty View Post
      ~You remove the 2 bolts from the strut connecting to the spindle that's it.You're done.
      Ah, I hadn't tried that... the manual hadn't stated that as the procedure. From what I'm gathering, you're recommending having the knuckle swing down and away, rather than up and away, as per Haynes. I was following:
      1) Disconnect sway bar linkage at lower control arm (done, easy)
      2) Disconnect steering tie rod end at knuckle (removed castle nut, but tie rod end is jammed in the knuckle)
      3) Disconnect lower ball joint from knuckle (removed holding bolt, but lateral forces keep trying to push the ball joint connector back into the knuckle.)
      4) Swing steering knuckle (still attached the the strut) up and away from the driveshaft (haven't reached this magic point yet.)

      Is this procedure even correct? I'm beginning to wonder about the validity of the Haynes manual now...
      Last edited by wulfe; 09-29-2008, 03:30 PM.

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        #4
        The haynes manual was written doing a tear down of a BG. They tell you that on like page 2. The bg is a different car, similar but different

        The haynes manual way "techinally" doesn't require you to get an alignment afterwards. This is good for cheap people that have more time than money.

        once again you don't need to touch the sway bar links. Have fun putting them back on. 2 strut bolts. And POSSIBLY the tie rods depending on how much play you have with them.

        It takes 10mins. Then the fun part of prying the axles out.
        Beater=/= Sleeper

        Originally posted by kozzman555
        kitty, you are a hilarious woman
        Originally posted by HopelessCow
        there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
        Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

        Comment


          #5
          Heh, much thanks for avoiding the hassle... and I think I'll be ready for the axles. A couple soft-faced hammers & prybars and a ton of wd-40 should help a bit. The damned axle nuts were a different story, though... those had to be dremelled and chiselled off. PITA when you don't have an impact wrench handy.
          The tie rods MAY come off, but only to replace the bushings.
          And I was planning on getting the car realigned after putting the axles in. I don't trust myself not to have screwed up the alignment, what with all the munging that I've been doing.
          Last edited by wulfe; 09-30-2008, 12:34 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            ouch

            Jeez, you weren't kidding about those driveaxles... they were rusted solid on both ends -- it took a 2-ton puller just to get the outer side off. Perhaps the 12+ hours that the lower half of the car spent underwater when half our damned city flooded had something to do with it (gotta love living in the southern states during hurricane season.)
            Unfortunately, the inner side is jammed just as solid, and there is no way to get them off without injuring the transmission housing (short of dropping the whole thing out.) I've had to just make do with servicing the joints directly (I got some of those split boots to replace the old ones.)

            If you have any suggestions for getting those damned driveaxles off, I'd be much obliged

            Oh, and disconnecting the sway bar isn't exactly necessary when replacing the lower ball joints, but it sure makes it a lot easier. *grin*
            Last edited by wulfe; 11-13-2008, 08:54 PM.

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