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    Things I must look into... advice?!

    I stumbled into a privately owned car that has been on the driveway for more than two months.

    It has a dead battery and a flat rear tire, the car looks good overall on the paint and a little shabby on the interiors. The stick shift feels loose, like if the rubber bushings are worn out, I managed to go thru all the gears withe the car dead still. The slave cylinder feels like it was actuating, etc...

    It is a 1992 Ford Escort GT, the guy says he did the timing belt and water pump. He wants 650 for the car, it has 134,000 miles.

    The engine bay has the typical oil leaks on the valve cover making it look much worst than it is.

    Well, I am about to go this weekend with a fresh battery, tire pump and an extra set of spark plugs.

    What else should I look into when purchasing a car that has not been driven for more than two months?

    My goal is to lower him down to 500.
    Attached Files

    #2
    Find out how many miles since the timing belt was replaced. With 134k miles, it should be on its third belt. I think they are supposed to be replaced every 65k miles.

    I've had my '91 Escort GT since new and the only time it's left me stranded (other than running out of gas) is cause the timing belt broke. I was running the original belt like 3k miles after the replacement schedule and it finally broke. These are non-interference motors, so the valve won't hit the pistons should it break, but it does leave you stranded.

    I'd pull the plugs just to see what they look like as that can tell you how the motor's been running (rich, lean, oil in the chambers). You could also pick up a cheap compression test kit (something like this) and do a compression check on it.

    The BP motor that's in the Escort GT is pretty solid. I think the number one killer of these cars is the chassis rusting through.

    There's a common problem with the shifter where it falls down through the floor when a rubber mount rots out. If you pull straight up on the knob and find it moves up and you can shift it better while it's up then the cars got that problem. You can get a new part from Mazda for about $90 or you can rig something up to support the shifter.

    The transmissions on these car are known to be a weak link particularly if you run high HP. It would be best if you could run it through the gears and make sure it's working well.

    Also, you might want to check out feoa.net as well, lot of good Escort specific stuff over there.
    '91 Escort GT

    Comment


      #3
      Do a compression check on the engine WARM.
      Compression:
      Minimum 128 psi
      Maximum 182 psi
      Maximum difference between cylinders 28 psi

      I've talked down price on a couple engines based on the difference in compression pressure
      I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

      ._________________________
      |.....Overnight....................| ||
      |.....Japan Parts.................| |'|";,___.
      |_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
      "(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)*****"(@)
      Oh and by the way that shot in your banner with Vin Diesel's car getting shot, thats a civic not an altezza.

      Comment


        #4
        Look for the serial numbers on the tires.
        If the serial numbers are only 4 digits they are older than 10 years
        and will have to be changed regardless of their looks.

        You also have to consider body rot and hard to find suspension parts like control arms.
        Rotted out brake lines can be replaced as well as E-brake cables,
        but they cost $$$$.

        If you can get it to run, see if he will agree to a test drive.
        Check the tranny shifting and engine response once it is WARM.
        Check brakes for spongy feeling or pulsation (warped rotors).
        Check the trunk for LEAKS. Move the pad and look inside the quarter panels.
        Look for the jack and handle. Look for the spare. LOOK under both !!!
        Water tends to accumulate there.

        Good luck with the find !!!
        Pete...

        2k9 Ford Taurus X LTD AWD
        2k4 Mercury Marauder
        1994 Ford Escort GT

        Comment


          #5
          Awesome, thank you for the tips.

          I will get ready today, gather the tools, as tomorrow I will see the car.

          The vehicle seems ok... I asked if he ever heard the rods knocking, or if the engine lost power anytime. Like always they all swear timing belt was changed, but misplaced the invoice for labor done...

          Comment


            #6
            I had a guy start up a car and start revving it up to redline immediately after starting it.

            Then on the test drive, he kept encouraging me to go WOT "because it sounds so wicked with no muffler, esse".

            Needless to say, I did not buy the car.


            I really wanted it, too. ****in 4AGEs sound like sex at WOT.




            Sorry, I forget what the moral of this story was.
            sigpic

            03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
            92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

            Comment


              #7
              My advice- go with a pocketknife or small slotted screwdriver. Poke at both rockers, the rear quarter panels, the rear frame rails, the jack well, and spare tire well.

              Mechanical stuff can be fixed and is worth fixing on your own with the help of the junkyard. Rust is a bitch.
              sigpic

              03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
              92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by atomicEGT View Post
                I had a guy start up a car and start revving it up to redline immediately after starting it.

                Then on the test drive, he kept encouraging me to go WOT "because it sounds so wicked with no muffler, esse".

                Needless to say, I did not buy the car.


                I really wanted it, too. ****in 4AGEs sound like sex at WOT.




                Sorry, I forget what the moral of this story was.
                ^lol

                if i went to testdrive a car, and the owner redlined it right after startup i'd just stop in mid sentence. stare the guy straight in the eye, and say "fail" then gtfo.

                anyways, timing belts don't even matter. they're not that hard to do and if it does break you're engine will be just fine. don't worry, it's not a dsm or honda
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  $400.00 SOLD :-)

                  Went there with all my tools, spare battery, ingition, spark plug wires, spare AFM, water, a few quarts of oil just in case.

                  Immediately hands-on and took swap the battery, cables, plugs (number four was full of oil in the plug chamber), put some water in rad and gave it a crank. Right away the cut-off light comes off and I was like, WHat is going on?, then the wipers started working and I could not turn it off, the driver's side seat belt rail started moving back and forth non-stop. I tell you it was ridiculous, like if the car would be having all kinds of symptoms for me not to tkae it and then when I look at the fuel gauge it had none. The owner "forgot" to tell me, of all things, it had no fuel. I was about to call it a day and take off, but I still remembered my first escort and decided it needed at least one opportunity in life, lol.

                  - No oil on the spark plug ends or chamber, no radiator leaks, fan works perfect, no shimmering of damper or any craking on serpentine belts, alternator works, all lights, signals, dome lights work, even the rear-view mirror motors, some tear on driver's seat side, carpet needs replacement, no tears on back or cracked glass panels.

                  So after spending five bucks, and finally figuring out there is a cut-off switch on trunk, I decided to give it another crank and wonderfully the damn BP engine started with the usual ticking noise of the lifters. The owner got all nervous as the engine "sounded" very bad, although I knew it was a matter of some rev passes to fill those lifters. Ok, to make the story short, after a quick test, for sure the left axle needs replacement, may need a cheapo clutch in the next few months, new spark plugs, battery, filter, cables, well you know the typical tune-up.

                  Amazingly those engines will run forever, incredible, the engine ran smoothly after just a few minutes. I think it has no gas on the A/C lines but I do not care.

                  For now this will be the point A to point B until I finish my 323 turbo project. I may put a new clutch, I think it does not matter as the commute to work is like 12 miles...
                  Will post pictures tomorrow exaclty how I got it, told the owner about all the repairs the car needed and finally both agreed on 400 bucks, a car with 134,000 miles.
                  Last edited by psiturbo; 11-14-2008, 07:52 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Pictures of the blue beast



                    It has a small dent on the front grill, the radiator top brace is a little dipped in... Its ok, checked for any leaks. In the KBB I had to check it as FAIR, they should add one more option, POS.










                    Look at that battery, is really shinny!



                    Today the shift linkage was adjusted, the only one I could not fix was the pin that has no thread or nut to remove, it is missing the rubber bushings. The engine needs an oil change, it was raining a lot and decided to stay on the garage inspecting underneath the car, inside the vehicle. I also adjusted the clutch engagement just a bit and cleaned all the air filter parts plus removed all the ghetto plastic for sound suppression. Both of the front axle boots have small cracks, grease is everywhere, if tomorrow is sunny will try to go to a Upick Upull junkers. For 400 bucks can't ask anymore, did a compression test:

                    160 (4)
                    155 (3)
                    155 (2)
                    160 (1)

                    Drove it around the neighborhood and the engine feels with plenty of power, the power band is consistent all the way to almost 7000, thats when the clutch started to give up. As long as it is driven under 5500 to 6000 the clutch gives no problem. It has a few gremlins like for example, the wipers keep running for about 30 more seconds when you turn them off and sometimes stop anywhere on the windshield. The floor carpet needs to be pressure washed or at least swapped with a more descent one. Also the intake manifold brace is missing, the one that goes from the mani to the engine block nearby the starter. Under closer inspection it is true the timing belt, starter and solenoid, water pump, rear brakes and tires are new. A friend has a paint gun and will lend it to me, not now, who knows maybe in the future I will give it a blue Subaru look.
                    Last edited by psiturbo; 11-15-2008, 04:02 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Man, the inside of that head is pretty ugly, but for $400, you can't really complain.

                      Leave the IM brace off, that thing sucks.
                      sigpic

                      03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                      92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Looks exactly like mine did when i bought it. I paid a lot more than 400 bucks for it thought. I got SCREWED.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I would say that for $400 you did pretty good !

                          I bought my 94 EGT for $400 and invested another $3000
                          to get it into running condition.

                          It is hit and miss with these cars, but if the engine is good
                          and the body has a little rust than they can be fixed up.

                          Check your brake lines under the rear wheel wells for corrosion.
                          They tend to crack there and leak brake fluid.
                          You should replace them as soon as you can.

                          Now I need someone who knows how to set the parking brake cables correctly on mine.
                          Pete...

                          2k9 Ford Taurus X LTD AWD
                          2k4 Mercury Marauder
                          1994 Ford Escort GT

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The interior has the previous owner Dollar Tree cologne smell, it almost makes me puke after a few minutes of driving. It has been outside with the windows completely down.

                            I must clean the carpet plus the guy had a sand parking lot, although he is nowhere near the beach. It has beach sand in the inside. The glass has the remaining of window tint glue, so it is hard to see at night. A friend is going to lend me a heat gun.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              nice score damn that head looks nasty

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