sound damplifier ? .. size..

[Chad]

well i can get 50 square feet of the sound damplifier second skin... for 69 shipped.. well my ? is... how much of my protege can i cover with 50 square feet.. would i have enough 2 cover my trunk rear deck and front doors..???

[Kevin]

figure, sound DAMPENER, is truely only necessary to get rid of metal vibrations.. which when you're pushing subs, is ideal. for your entire trunk (every single square inch) about 20 square feet tops, 12 feet if you're just doing patch work, 5 sq feet for your back dash, 14 sq feet for your front doors.. .double any number for a second coating.. realize what kind of deadener you're getting as some can't be mounted vertically or won't hold up very well in heat or direct sunlight. realize my measurements are rough and don't take into account having to cut pieces to size.. so infact, might end up covering even less than you would hope.. good luck
peace

[blue LEDz]

^^^ yeah, what he said if you've got a lot of bass, sheet metal insulation won't do much good for the rear deck, if you are trying to get rid of rattles. at least i know this is true in 3rd gens. the deck cover rattles against the window and the metal underneath. and when with my 15 i could get it to jump almost an inch, sound dampeners didn't do any good. it will however help on the doors and trunk area, where there are large flat pieces of metal. i've found that those are the best places to put it. in areas that the metal bends a lot, there is no need for the sound dampening. the large flat areas need the added mass to keep it from vibrating. i'd say do your whole trunk once, and the lid twice. then do all your doors, the outer most metal of them.



EDIT: you're from NY? it's pretty cold up there? don't apply the mat unless it's over 75 degrees out, or you'll have to use a heat gun. i prefer not to apply it unless it's over 85 degrees.

[MisterT]

Blue told me about removing my rear deck, but at the time I was really concerned with how it looked without a rear deck. I removed it out of experimentation because the bass made the stereo sound like ass, and it has been out ever since. I will get to sound deadening the rear deck in the future, but it may be when hell freezes over at the rate that I am going.

[Chad]

i was told by adam that putting foam ( like the stuffu put under carpets) on the rear deck under the carpet..gets rid of most of those rattles.. i am going to give that a try, and yeah i dont plan on putting the stuff in till spring/summer..

figure, sound DAMPENER

yeah i know its dampener lol but i just wrote damplifier because thats what hte product is called on the second skin website sorry lol

[Kevin]

linkage for this stuff? he was right. i plan on doing my enire floor pan or at least in parts.. on top of traditional dampener, i plan on extra insulation/foam when i replace my oem carpet (if i get to it). only these elements combined will there be an audible difference in road noise. the guy from elemental designs recommended v.2 plus v.1 for me on the floor pan.. but i don't have the time or money to **** with that. now bryan, what are you saying as far as doing the outter most metal on the doors.. you mean the metal you stare at when you pull the door panel off, correct? oh, and for your back dash, just get some thin pile carpet from pepboys (one with a flexible backing and one that matches your interior obviously), rip your rear dash panel entirely and your speakers, and third brake light, mask off all plastic surrounding and your back windshield, spray some 3m 77 adhesive on the sheetmetal and glue that **** in there, replace your speakers and use some weather stripping on your third brake light, you'll be set. at that point if you were going to do this, the only need for deadener would be around the speakers truthfully, however the whole dash would help. all of this set aside, i'd believe is the best method to clean up the rattling in the back dash. good luck
peace

[blue LEDz]

saucy, for the rear deck, where ever pieces meet, put weather stripping that will take care of all those rattles for only a couple bucks

demoninvictus, the outermost part of the door panel as in the piece that is painted and on the exterior of the vehicel. the inner metal has enough curves in it to stay pretty sturdy, and the rattles on that piece can be taken care of with weather stripping or liquid nails the outermost metal is large and flat, and i know mine vibrates out a bit, even with the dynamat that's on them

[Kevin]

hmm, so on the door skin itself? i just see all these ****ers post pictures and websites about how they've dyanmatted the hell out of their car.. and even in demo cars, they never picture the installation on the door skin itself. this is going to be an impossible feat of squeezing on my part.. this is what you wanted me to do to kill road noise??? thats nuts what about just putting it on the rigid understructure.. just like a blanket coat over the entire door, maybe a hole for the speaker and a few wires? cause i KNOW the damn matt will end up falling out eventually with how much water flows into my doors as is
peace

[blue LEDz]

typically for the exterior skin they use the spray on deadener. i'll be doing that to my doors this spring time but i've had dynamat extreme on my exterior skin for a while, and it's still attatched just fine

[Kevin]

well, i guess i don't have much to worry about that, except, how does rubberized undercoating fair out? i truthfully would rather use this product as i've seen what it can do before and it's readily available. is there anyway you can just pop the door skin off to make this easier?
peace

[jnorion]

Would it help at all to put mat on the inner metal of the door, or is that just wasting my money?

[asylum24]

would it help, yes.... but there is still a possibility and it most likely would happen taht you would get rattles still... not as many nor as loud but you would still have them

[blue LEDz]

as for the inner metal panel, it won't help much for rattles. weather stripping between it and the door panel would be a better idea


i haven't used the rubberized undercoating yet, but i've heard good and bad things about it. i guess it depends on what kind you get

[Kevin]

for the most part, it seems that it's not worth going through the trouble of going all out on this car. i'm simply just going to touch up what i can and enjoy the ride while it lasts . no rubberized undercoating, just dynamat on the doors, i'll see about doing the door skins.. etc. thanks bryan
peace

[Intruder]

Originally posted by demoninvictus
i'll see about doing the door skins..

I did mine... Wasn't very easy or straight forward, but it's doable and definitely decreases road noise. One experiment I conducted - just knock on the door from the outside after you've covered the skin on the inside - it doesn't sound like an empty tin can anymore, therefore the sound is absorbed. I didn't cover the rear doors at all because I ran out of material and this is how I made the before/after comparison. I think it's worth it...