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What would the pros do?

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    What would the pros do?

    Ok boys9mainly blue and a few others) IM gonna be getting hte Alpine MRV-F340 V12 Amplifier - 55W x 4 Car Amplifier pretty soon and well everyone knows my HU says its 60Wx4.. but its actually running at like 27... so my 55 per channel is gonna be better but ehres a Q I jsut thought of...

    If you were me would you bridge the 4 channel amp and just run 130 W x 2 and use it jsut for hte fronts


    Also on a different note... are there any mid bass speakers that can be run at 2 ohm?
    Last edited by asylum24; 09-06-2003, 04:06 AM.


    #2
    Doh I just found out my 5.25's are only 140watts max... dont want to get 10 watts from the max so should I just get the 2 channel amp that runs at 110wx2(Alpine MRV-T420)?
    Last edited by asylum24; 09-06-2003, 04:04 AM.

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      #3
      i don't have to be an expert, and i'll throw this much at you, with my new set up, i have 50 watts constant running to all four surrounds, and about 500 constant split between my two bazooka subs, so there is a lot of sound coming from the rear, but on my jbl amp, i just set my crossover on the amp to give highs and vocal/musical detail, not so much mid-bass as the fronts are geared, providing nice highs and very decent mid-bass. i think the rear speakers aren't as important when you're running subs as it's just rear fill.. just to add some detail, not stand out in anyway like the fronts do. i mean, don't they ideally say, the more watts, the cleaner the power you're sending your speakers? bottom line is, amping all your speakers equally, then setting the front gain/input levels a little higher than the back ought to do you some good, i mean, it depends on where you personally like your sound stage. i like it balanced a little more to the front if possible, but your rear speakers would definately sound alot better running 55 watts constant instead of the 27 watts. i love my alpine 7894 (v-drive 60watt peak amp as well), and to me, it's powerful enough to add rear detail, but i still amp them for the hell of it.
      peace

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        #4
        I agree that its just for fill but like my settings right now on my HU is the Xover on the HU is set the same for both the fronts and the backs and everything is equal for all the settings except I have it faded tot ehf ront by 2 mesurements and the way the Time correction is setup it sounds perfect to my ears...

        One other thing i dont know if anyone knows or not cuz ive only seen it on the alpine amps.. what the **** is phase.. like ony amp menu i have a phase and its either on or off and if its on its 0 or 180... wtf does that mean or do?

        Also I have the 12" DVC 4 ohm.. sub ran by a 500 w mono amp. so its wired in parrellel should I set the input at 1 ch or 2 ch?

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          #5
          ok so the Q isnt so much for hte pros... just said that since they would prolly know the best with the technical **** that I get caught up in

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            #6
            i'd get the 4 channel amp, and try it running just the front, and then all 4 speakers. i think you'll get the sound you are looking for with just a bit of adjustments just cause the the 4 channel will be capable of putting out 130 watts doesn't mean it has to, or it will after you adjust it and you might find out you like a little more power going to your rear speakers. at least once it's amped, you have more adjustablility over the whole system as far as phase goes, that's usually only used for multi sub setups, so it's easy to change the phase, if one is out of phase just leave it at 0, and you'll be fine. also, run your sub amp at 1 channel

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              #7
              Sound Stream sells speakers that are either 2 or 3 ohm instead of 4ohm. They should have midbasses around that range in ohms. My Reference SS6.1's are 4 ohm speakers. I would like to get the Exact Series 5 1/4" speakers to replace the Boston Acoustics components. I wonder if I could use the Pro series 5 1/4 mid range speaker for my sub speaker that I use from my previous gateway computer. It houses a BA 5.25" speaker. The ones in my car have neodymium magnets. They are phat! The tweeters are a little bright sounding perhaps because they are titanium dome versus a soft silk dome (which usually has smoother response). They do have a -3db switch on the crossovers to take the brightness away. I'll have to play around with it. :p:

              Mikee Mike
              2001 ES (Featured at SoundDomain)

              Pioneer/SoundStream/JBL/Coustic/Elemental Designs/Focal/
              KnuKonceptz/Lightning Audio/SoundQuest/Tiff/
              Gel America/Dynamo Deep Cycle Battery/
              Groundkit

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                #8
                usually companys rarly make small midbass speakers that not 4 ohm. what you usually end up doing is buying a second set of components and just run the midbass driver and not the tweater, but then again you might like how it sound with both tweaters.
                '02 classic red p5
                currently enrolled in AA.

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