wtf i hate my car. now it clunks under braking. i can feel it in the pedal, and i can hear.feel it coming from the front end. any possibilities
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clunk when braking
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warped rotorWhen you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
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warped or cracked rotor (warped usually does not lead to a clunk)... and yes, I have seen more than one cracked rotor (though in both cases it was on a Neon).--JJB--
'02 Silver Protegé5 - 5sp - no performance mods, no plans for them
Kenwood Z919 -- Polk Audio speakers
16" alloys w/ 205/50 Bridgestone RE750 (summer)
15" steels w/ 195/55 Bridgestone Blizzak LM22 (winter)
Moon roof - wind deflector - variable intermittent wipers - electrochromic mirror w/ temp & compass
Winter/beater car: 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with 182k on it
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depends on the nature of the warp. a sharp warp will clunk, most rotors crack under such extremes. either ways the solution is similiar, have your front rotors checked.When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
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the advice above was good... if the clunk is a single shot when braking it is likely something in the suspension/steering/front end components or possibly something in the brake system not being tight (caliper bolts, etc)... repetitive sounds are the ones associated with the actual braking surface.
thanks to 1967cutlass for pointing this out--JJB--
'02 Silver Protegé5 - 5sp - no performance mods, no plans for them
Kenwood Z919 -- Polk Audio speakers
16" alloys w/ 205/50 Bridgestone RE750 (summer)
15" steels w/ 195/55 Bridgestone Blizzak LM22 (winter)
Moon roof - wind deflector - variable intermittent wipers - electrochromic mirror w/ temp & compass
Winter/beater car: 1997 Mercury Mountaineer with 182k on it
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Kevin
nows the perfect time to get some cross drilled/slotted rotors bro .. and more support to the theory, i couldn't tell you how horrible and how familiar this noise became.. it had gotten so bad needless to say, that the pulsating sensations got worse and worse.. you could feel it everytime you came to a stop. this is also a good time to change out your pads as well. last i checked, i found a set of greenstuff (sp) rotors for under 90.. and semi metallics shouldn't cost you more than 50.. sometimes as cheap as 30. that, with grease, retainer clips.. shouldn't cost you more than 150 for an awesome brake job that should last you at least a year and a half or more.
peace
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Kevin
correction, i'll have to find the part source my friend was using, no way in hell commonly available cross drilled or slotted rotors run under 90 for a set. at anyrate, good luck
peace
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This says that rotors don't warp.
I have measured them warped and been amazed at a pair of front rotors form a rallyX car that I was turning they were so warped it was amazing. I remounted them twice thinking I might have grabed the wrong spacer. Still you should read that it's intresting.
I would say if it's a single clunk that it's in the suspension. Does it do it in reverse? Jack up the front support the front then grab the strut and shake it.Quote from eBay
"with no knowlege of cars.he,armed only with the skills of an 18th century blacksmith,removed the front axles and wheel bearings,damaging both in the process"
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if you can feel it in the pedal it means you are getting a system feedback. how would you feel a suspension clunk in the pedal? wouldn't logic dictate that you would feel the clunk throughout the car if it was suspension related?
Rob is the clunk repeditive?When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
Comment
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Hey Rob, BTW dude, you are suffering from some toe in. (pic of your springs in your garage) you might want to rotate your strut mounts 90degrees. and have the nub point to the firewall.When you turn your car on... does it return the favor?
Originally posted by goldstarYes, still have it. It was my attempt to immortalize you in verse.
A Protege driver named Brock
Once said 7 seconds he'd clock.
So his engine he goosed
With much too much boost,
And drove a rod through his block.
Comment
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Kevin
well, even that is not to be mistaken, they're just correcting the terminology, so in otherwords, the situation hasn't changed, just the freakin name.. 'disc coning'? see gents, this is where i've been confused. i've never machined out a rotor, i've never had to replace a rotor on my own, however, i've been told that with every other brake job, a good resurfacing of the rotor is in good interest? in a period of less than two years, i've been handed down the diagnosis that my front discs were warped and needed replacement.. that was 4 months or so after i got my car. bout a year later, my car is in for the same crap, cracked pads, and glazed and 'warped' rotors? is this typically something you should have to replace often? i mean, bear in mind i don't drive nice with this thing.. most of the driving i do is fast acceleration, fast stopping.. should this be further reason for replacement of rotors? i'm confused.
peace
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