New Trunk Layout Q

[asylum24]

Ok so I got tired of my old trunk setup ebfore Ieven finished it so I started on a new one today... my problem is after I hooked everything back up, since I have teh sub mounted Differently its not taking up as much air space... so what should I fill up the box with to take up some of that missing airspace? I know the spray stuff but that stuff takes like a day and a half to dry so is there anything else? what about like some sheets of styrofoam.?

[asylum24]

Sorry about the bad Quality of the pic, its like 10 oclock and I had just dropped my shop light and broke the bulb, so I had to use a flashlight with this pic

[macklum]

If you are runnung asealed box don't worry about it ,The air space the woofer takes up won't make that much difference

[asylum24]

it is sealed and it did make a difference... very noticible

[Kevin]

sounds muddy and doesn't hit at all? i have NO idea about the mathematics of that. i wonder if brian has any magical measurements for ya ? .. it 'looks' cool the way you have it mounted, but who's to say what's functional. i mean, the bottom line for me with my subs, they'll obviously sound like **** when i open the trunk lid, but once that lid shuts... it's a WHOLE new realm of sound. now with your set up (a better picture/description would help) what is that sub mounted to? just a plank of wood, firing into the back of your rear seats? or what?
peace

[asylum24]

No, acutally the sub is attached to a my sealed box thats on the other side of that wood. the wood "frame" then makes it so its flush and so it'll look better when its carpeted. I asked blue before I started this project if it made a difference mounting it like this and he said no just that I could use a smaller box and it looks cooler... so im in the process of filling the box... I also fixed part of the problem.... my sealed box wasnt sealed... I forgot I only had 2 screws holding it in place while I mounted everything else so it was "air tight" so I put the rst of them in and it sounded alot better.. just ogtta get the box back to the old volume... I'll post some more pics later today

[blue LEDz]

my first question was going to be whether you had a good seal, but i guess you already figured that one out do you have weather stripping around where the surround meets the wood of the box? that will help even more to make sure there are no air leaks did your old trunk setup have a baffle across the whole width of your trunk? basically, all you did was invert the sub? with a sealed box it doesn't make as big a difference inverting the sub, but it will be noticeable. having more air space will let you play lower, but the higher stuff won't be as loud you can either screw some chunks of 2x4's to the inside of the box, which will lower the volume and add reinforcement, or you can put something else in there, like a brick or something. just make sure they are secured

[blue LEDz]

well, i was just on alpine's website reading the owners manual, trying to get the specs on driver displacement an recomended enclosure size. what size box are you running now? they recomend between .7 and 1.0 cu ft for sealed. in a regular front mount application, the driver takes up .128 cu ft of airspace. so when you reverse it, it adds that, plus the dished area of the cone, which is .073 cu ft. that's about .2 cu ft, which will make a difference in sound. winISD recomends a 1.176 cu ft box. up in that range, .2 cu ft doesn't make much of a difference, but if you are running closer to .7 cu ft, it will make a bigger difference. it's still only about half a decibel difference in the higher freq's, but it'll be enough to notice course now if you really want to hear a difference, port it 1 cu ft ported and tuned to 34 hz would be sweet. you'll get a 3-4 db increase from 35 hz to 65 hz, and it'll be louder from 25 hz through 200 hz

[asylum24]

right now its a cubic foot box... so I was runn around.8 before.. so last night I went out and bought a can of that spray stuff and sprayed the inside wtih it and dint hink it was enough so I took some 1/2 inch thick pieces of wood and glued and stapled them in place... much better... I do need to pick up some weather stripping though cuz I dont have any... also Blue I have this idea for running the wires... since it has to coils, I though I should get a female/female type plug get 4 of them and mount them on the board and have male ends on the wires coming from speaker and then o nthe back side of the speaker do the parallel wiring being it with male plugs on those cords... well this work right? Hope that was clear on what I was doing...but I got it in my head

[asylum24]

Here's a better pic for you guys who wanted to see them

[asylum24]

behind the wall

[asylum24]

the amp.. also those wires are the wires to the X-over from the 6x9's... so dont worry I dont wire my amps like that

[asylum24]

And the money shot

PS: I know the scews are all different.. I was jsut grabbing screws and putting them in... when im done with the carpeting and the proper wiring... its gonna have hex screws but these will do for now

[MisterT]

Originally posted by asylum24
the amp.. also those wires are the wires to the X-over from the 6x9's... so dont worry I dont wire my amps like that

Nice clean install you have there!!! :p: Mine is probably going to look like that in the very near future. Blue remember how your car looked when I met you the 1st time, mine will look like that soon, as I am planning on painting the interior some. If a passer by looks at it, he will have this expression on his face -->

I plan on doing some changes do to the dimming. I would like to still use the bigger Class A amp on my highs (they sound stunning with the smaller one (@75 watts per channel). I don't know though. I am thinking of finding a class D amp to run my subs do to dimming problems that I ONLY HAVE!!! I just have to find a good amp stable to 1ohm or a powerful 4 ohm 2 channel amp close to $300, but can go a little over (like $350 or so) rated at least 400 watts per sub. Currently they are getting 300 a piece, but think 400 or little more would but optimum. The only thing I wonder though is what I asked Blue...If I would be in the same position as before with head light dimming. I would be using a more efficient amp, but more powerful one.
The dimming is driving me nuts!! I feel like a ****tard driving at night with dimming lights. I remember seeing people with the same problem and thinking how stupid they look, and little did I know!

Asylum, good luck with install. This week I am going to be under the car hooking up wires to my alternator. If that stops dimming, I may still get a bigger amp. What can I say? I have been bitten by the bug and it was under control for many years, but now it's spreading all over again. Must resist....temptation...oh, what tha hell, here's the credit card!

[asylum24]

LOL mister T... since you've been bitten so bad, I think its safe to say you have like a rash or allegergic reaction to it.... but can I have your credit card? some nice F1 status products that could make there way into my car... Hell if you give me your card I'll be even nice enough to buy you some stuff while Im at it! Im just that nice