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    Alternator problems

    Ok, had the alternator changed out Tuesday (used), Wed car died (battery dead, alt. bad), another used alt. put in on Wed, and car died Thursday morning (battery dead, alt. bad), yet a third alt. was put in and the car did the same thing. We put a new alt. in on Friday, car did same thing. Took the car into an electronics shop to have the elec. checked out, and they state that nothing is wrong. I have a friend whose Protege has the same problems. All wires have ben checked and some have been replaced, but we can not seem to find out what is causing the alt. a) not to work and b) to go bad within an hour of driving. Someone had mentioned that it may be the starter, but the starter was checked and there is nothing wrong with it. Any suggestions could help. Thanks!

    97 Protege LX
    1.5 L

    #2
    when the altenators are going bad do they make any noise?
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      #3
      Have you tried replacing the battery? Swapping alternators in and out is not cheap, nor it might solve your problem. I would recommend to take it to at least a few more shops for electric diagnostic, DO NOT go to the dealer. Just see for what different shops have to say.
      "Probable impossibilities are to be preferred to improbable possibilities."

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        #4
        yeah, I would say, change the battery.
        But before you do that .
        CHECK TO SEE IF THEY PLUGED THE ALTENATOR IN.
        There is a plug on the back of the ALT.
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          #5
          Originally posted by bruce95fmla
          yeah, I would say, change the battery.
          But before you do that .
          CHECK TO SEE IF THEY PLUGED THE ALTENATOR IN.
          There is a plug on the back of the ALT.
          I have gone through two brand new batteries in the past week also. The alt is plugged in . Like I said they can't seem to find out why these alt's are going bad. Three out of the four were checked before putting in the car. I drive (bout an hour, with radio and heat) and it ends up (after they take the car back in) that the alt is bad and that the battery is dead, and that my car was again running only off the battery. Go figure. They don't know what else to do, and the elec shop found nothing wrong (that was $56 an hour to diagnose, lol) Any other suggestions?

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            #6
            I found out the first altenator was bad because something was sqeaky terribly, and the car ran just about fine (for being a POC, lol) and ever since they replaced the first one (used) the car has been having these problems. No sqeaking or sounds with the replaces alt's though.

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              #7
              My guess is bad case of grounding somewhere, maybe wires are corroded, not too sure, but this is certainly an interesting situation.
              "Probable impossibilities are to be preferred to improbable possibilities."

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                #8
                when u started the car did u look under the hood check if the belt on da alternator wuz spinning ...maybe its actually something wrong with the pulleys ...i hope i am able to help... and if anything wha bout the plug that goes to the alternator is bad maybe like it disconnected from the clip or something ...but i suggest check if the belt has been spinning also...good luck

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                  #9
                  Another new alt.

                  Ok guys it is me again....
                  Waited about a month, and got another new alt and battery...this time had another mechanic put them in...and here is what we got...

                  Took out radio (sub, amp, etc.)..maybe was cause of problem

                  Continuity and ohms were checked by mechanic and dealership and nothing was found wrong

                  All relays and fuses were checked and nothing was found wrong

                  Grounds were checked, 3 total, one on frame, 2 on engine block

                  So...this is what the mechanic says that he can't figure out..

                  The battery has a draw on it while running, car dies in about 10 min after starting

                  After about 10-15 minutes of not running, the battery gains voltage, and can start right back back up

                  When the car is running, and he tries to put the window up, heater on, or windsheild wipers on, the RPM gage drops to zero

                  So now, after the 8th alt, it doesn't seem to be the alt at all. He thinks that it is the computer system or the wiring harness, but like I said they were both checked last month. This is the 4th place that I have taken it to, and still isn't freaking fixed, lol.

                  Any idea's?

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                    #10
                    alternator isnt computer controled.
                    its the same ****in setup as any car in the world.

                    the alternator is grounded through nice size bolts into the engine, which is wired to the chassis ground.
                    the battery negative is wired to chassis ground
                    this is how the alternator grounds to the battery.

                    the alternator positive is wired right up to the battery.

                    thats how the positive and negative hook up. a lose connection on the alternator positive-battery positive will kill an alternator quicker than well, really quick. i have done that one before. lose battery terminals will also kill an alt real quick.

                    the alternator isnt computer controled, its just an alternator. it makes 36v 3 phase (alternating) current which is converted to 14.4v d/c through the use of a rectifier regulator and diode system. its the same thing every other car in the world has. i dont see what the problem could be except a bad potitive or bad negative. those are the only things which are possible to kill 8 alternators in a row. youre stereo wont kill the alt, it could shorten its life a bit but theres amlost no way a stereo which can fit in a protege can kill an alt.
                    unless you tazer the alt or sumthing as a fetish game anyways.
                    find it, **** it, forget it

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                      #11
                      after about 10-15 minutes of not running, the battery gains voltage, and can start right back back up

                      When the car is running, and he tries to put the window up, heater on, or windsheild wipers on, the RPM gage drops to zero
                      Did you ever figure this out ? My car is doing just this exact thing right now.

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                        #12
                        Were the alternators tested as bad AFTER taking them out? Or did you just figure they were bad just because you would disconnect a fully charged battery and the car would turn off while alt was still installed? If loose connections can kill an alt then the connector to the unit might be bad causing a short or on/off phasing that fries the alternators.

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                          #13
                          replace the ecu.
                          The second gens started a ecu controled voltage regulator.
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