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    Wiring 2 amplifiers

    Hey this is for u Blue LEDz! (And anyone else with info!)

    ok, so i bought 2 amps for my car; 1 for the sub, and 1 for the other speakers. (fyi, max watts is 680W for both subs added together)

    here's the idea . . .
    for power, there would be one "wire" connecting from. . .
    BATTERY 12v -> power lead -> 60A fuse -> power terminal of 600w amp -> power terminal of 80w amp

    for ground, there would be one "wire" connecting from. . .
    ground term of 80w amp -> ground term of 600w amp -> chassis/frame

    is this ok? i am trying to do it this way to bypass having to buy distributor blocks and running two separate leads for each amp.

    next issue! . . .
    i read on crutchfield that a relay is recommended for the turn-on lead for the 2 amps or else i might short out that circuit in my HU.

    is that true? before reading that article, i was just goin to run one wire connecting from. . .
    HU turn-on lead -> 600w amp turn-on -> 80w amp turn-on

    feeeeeedback plllss!
    Last edited by JProtege; 09-07-2003, 11:48 PM.
    Tag Team

    #2
    that should work just fine... im runnin the power in series on 3 amps in my pro... but im runnin 3 seperate grounds, all grounded to the same spot... keep them under 3 feet long if u can as well... and instead of a fuse, take it back and buy a 60-amp circuit breaker... if ur doin ur own install, and still learnin, this will save u a LOT of money...
    "Squirrels are evil because they have thumbs."
    - Chick McGee


    Comment


      #3
      ok, i've picked out everything needed for a good install, based on one sub amp, and one 2 channel amp. i'm assuming the 80 watt amp is only 2 channel. the only difference between what i'm recomending if the amp is 4 channel, is that another set of RCA's are required if your HU has 3 sets of outputs, or you'd need RCA splitters if it's only got 2 outputs.

      ok, here's what you need:

      we'll start with a 4 channel 4 guage install kit to save some money from purchasing it seperate. and it comes with the inline fuse holder. $36


      you don't want to daisy chain the power inputs to the amps like you wanted to. it's just a bad idea. so we'll use the fused distribution block. $10


      you're going to need fuses for the distribution block. get 2 for each amp, based on what size fuse the amps already have. $3.60


      you'll need 8 guage power wire to go from the distribution block to each amp. not sure exactly how much you'll need, but it's only $.45 per foot.


      you'll also need 8 guage for the grounds from the amp. just pick up the 8 guage cable in a different color than the positive

      you'll need two 8 guage ring terminals to bolt down the amp ground wires. attatch them to the same bolt, as this helps with ground noise $1.30

      that covers the basics. if you want, you can upgrade your battery terminals. since you aren't running anything huge, you could get a cheap set of terminals from walmart or discount auto parts. or if you want to spend more money you could get the ones from knukonceptz

      or lightning audio has some nice ones at www.thezeb.com for only $20

      with the install kit, you'll have more than enough power wire, and you won't need the ground wire it comes with, so use the extra power wire, and the ground wire to make a sort of hyper ground kit. the install kit comes with 3 ring terminals for 4 guage, and 2 spade terminals. you only need the one ring terminal for main positive line going to the amps, so you've got 4 more terminals. use them with the extra 4 guage wire to ground the battery to the chassis and the engine. you at least need it grounded to the chassis, but the extra one to the engine can't hurt anything so without the battery terminals you'll be at about $55 to wire it correctly. then you'll need to figure out how much speaker wire you'll need to run from the small amp to your speakers. keep in mind that the kit comes with 20 feet of 12 guage speaker wire. you can use that for your sub(s), and get some 16 guage for your other speakers. $.30 per foot.


      the RCA's come with built in amp turn on leads. i've never had any problems running all my amps remote turn ons off one lead, but a relay is extra protection, and when i redo all my wiring, i'll be using a relay

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by blue LEDz
        you don't want to daisy chain the power inputs to the amps like you wanted to. it's just a bad idea. so we'll use the fused distribution block. $10
        i realize u prolly know a lot more about doin this **** than i do, just from listenin to u... but what hes tryin to do is the same thing i do... save money... there should be no reason to buy all that stuff... i used to LOVE runnin 4 guage, but it just got to be a pain in the ass... i run the power from the circuit breaker to my 800x1 sub amp, from that amp to my 400x2 rear speaker amp, and from that one to my 200x2 front speaker amp... NO engine noise, at any volume, no fading, clipping, etc... i dont see why he would have to go thru all of what u posted, other than u seem to be one of the ppl who wants their **** to LOOK good while its soundin good... :D while theres nothin wrong with that, it doesnt go hand in hand with bein cheap either...
        "Squirrels are evil because they have thumbs."
        - Chick McGee


        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by skullet
          i realize u prolly know a lot more about doin this **** than i do, just from listenin to u... but what hes tryin to do is the same thing i do... save money... there should be no reason to buy all that stuff... i used to LOVE runnin 4 guage, but it just got to be a pain in the ass... i run the power from the circuit breaker to my 800x1 sub amp, from that amp to my 400x2 rear speaker amp, and from that one to my 200x2 front speaker amp... NO engine noise, at any volume, no fading, clipping, etc... i dont see why he would have to go thru all of what u posted, other than u seem to be one of the ppl who wants their **** to LOOK good while its soundin good... :D while theres nothin wrong with that, it doesnt go hand in hand with bein cheap either...
          holy ****, that's the funniest thing i've read in a while me, worrying about looks?:p: here's what my trunk looks like:

          notice the coil of wires just laying in the lower right side? yeah, i just didn't feel like taking them out

          anyways, the reason why it's bad to daisy chain amps, is one, you probably aren't running large enough wire to the amps. and 2, if one amp ****s up, it has a good chance of ****ing up the others. so you have an 1800 watt system. that means that if combined they are about 65% efficient (i'm assuming the sub amp is class D, and the others are class A/B), then they need 2769 watts of power input to produce their rated power. divide that by 14 volts, and we get just under 200 amps of power input needed. i don't need any wire calculations to know that 200 amps needs 1/0 cable, but here's street wires calculator:
          Your system is only as good as its weakest link. StreetWires installation accessories like amplifier wiring kits and interconnects are the perfect way to get great sound from your system.

          add up all the fuses on the amps, and enter that # for their calculator and the length of wire you use. proper wiring is needed, not for looks, but for safety. it protects all your amps, and more importantly, your car. too small of cable can burn up and start a fire. sending a spike through the ground can burn up your cars computer. i've seen it all. that's why i wire my car right, and i always advise others do the same. yeah, when i first started i was cheap, and didn't do anything right. i realized fixing things after something ****s up will cost a lot more than to wire it correctly the first time

          Comment


            #6
            You can "daisy chain" your remote wire to your amps. I hear if you have up to 3 components, you can do this, but 4 or more is when a relay is recommended so you don't fry the remote on your HU. I have a relay for just 3 components, but in the beginning, I had 4 and removed a faulty one and just left it there.
            2001 ES (Featured at SoundDomain)

            Pioneer/SoundStream/JBL/Coustic/Elemental Designs/Focal/
            KnuKonceptz/Lightning Audio/SoundQuest/Tiff/
            Gel America/Dynamo Deep Cycle Battery/
            Groundkit

            Comment


              #7
              as a side note, skullet, have you tried switching the front and rear amps? genereally you want to have the most power going to front speakers, as long as they can handle it

              Comment


                #8
                hey thanks for all the info guys; i've taken everything stated into account.

                that said, is it ok if....

                battery 12v -> 8g - > 60A fuse -> 8g ->
                distributor (a)-> 8g -> 600w amp, (b)-> 8g -> 80w amp

                keep in mind (a) and (b) are happening at the same time and separately

                sort of like this...

                [600w]    [80w]
                ^                ^
                (a)          (b)
                 ^            ^
                [distributor]
                   ^
                [fuse]
                   ^
                [battery]

                can u guys make sense of that? anyway, as for the ground i plan on doing as i previously illustrated.
                As for the turn-on, thx for all your help. I will run it in parallel.
                Tag Team

                Comment


                  #9
                  oh yeah, how does an RCA connect with a built-in turn-on lead work?
                  Tag Team

                  Comment


                    #10
                    what are the fuse ratings on your amps? i still don't advise using 8 guage for both your amps. but you've got the idea for how to wire it up. the RCA's have a small wire in between the cables as part of the plastic jacket. it can be used for either remote turn on or ground loop isolation

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by blue LEDz
                      holy ****, that's the funniest thing i've read in a while me, worrying about looks?:p: here's what my trunk looks like:

                      notice the coil of wires just laying in the lower right side? yeah, i just didn't feel like taking them out

                      anyways, the reason why it's bad to daisy chain amps, is one, you probably aren't running large enough wire to the amps. and 2, if one amp ****s up, it has a good chance of ****ing up the others. so you have an 1800 watt system. that means that if combined they are about 65% efficient (i'm assuming the sub amp is class D, and the others are class A/B), then they need 2769 watts of power input to produce their rated power. divide that by 14 volts, and we get just under 200 amps of power input needed. i don't need any wire calculations to know that 200 amps needs 1/0 cable, but here's street wires calculator:
                      Your system is only as good as its weakest link. StreetWires installation accessories like amplifier wiring kits and interconnects are the perfect way to get great sound from your system.

                      add up all the fuses on the amps, and enter that # for their calculator and the length of wire you use. proper wiring is needed, not for looks, but for safety. it protects all your amps, and more importantly, your car. too small of cable can burn up and start a fire. sending a spike through the ground can burn up your cars computer. i've seen it all. that's why i wire my car right, and i always advise others do the same. yeah, when i first started i was cheap, and didn't do anything right. i realized fixing things after something ****s up will cost a lot more than to wire it correctly the first time
                      well i see i was wrong bout that.. :D ur trunk looks bout like mine, just less cluttered.. hehe.. no, my sub amp isnt a class d, i wish it was... ive had it runnin like this in 2 cars, about 7 months total, with no probs so far.. i always WANT to do it right, but $$ is tight and doesnt allow it... one day tho, ill have it done to look good and be done right.. :D
                      "Squirrels are evil because they have thumbs."
                      - Chick McGee


                      Comment


                        #12
                        hey, the **** doesn't have to look pretty if it's functional. i ALWAYS look for the cheap way out..and with wiring, it's one of my top concerns. do it right the first time and you won't have to pay for the extra **** later. i mean, you could do what my friend does and wire your 600 watt amp to 12 gauge speaker wire unfused and wonder why it won't work or why you have to come out to see your car in a ball of flames (not literally).
                        peace

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by blue LEDz
                          as a side note, skullet, have you tried switching the front and rear amps? genereally you want to have the most power going to front speakers, as long as they can handle it
                          why is that?

                          the 80w amp is 40x2 rms and i was goin to run them to the 6.5" i have in the rear.

                          reason being is that my 5.25" in the front are pieces of crap compared to the ones in the back.

                          look up the model numbers of my speakers and see for yourself.
                          Tag Team

                          Comment


                            #14
                            wow those do suck

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by asylum24
                              wow those do suck
                              lol

                              hey your bumper was designed after mine, thats cool to see

                              who makes it?

                              Comment

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