I'm trying to put my long forlorn 323 GT on the road, but i'm having trouble with these dang rear calipers. The problem i'm heving is that the piston won't compress in far enough to fit the new pads and rotor. I've searched to no avail, and even referenced a FSM from Mazda. The pistons arn't siezed, they just don't seem to have enough travel. I already removed the brake fluid master cylinder cap, disconnected the e-brake bracket and backed out the bleeder valve and disconnected the brake line completely. I got one side on without the anti-squeal shims on the backing plates but the other side I can't even get the caliper over the pads.
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IIRC, the shop manual states that the caliper pistons have to be turned CCW. It's been a long time since I've done the rear brakes on the GTX, and I remember I had to get creative to find something to put on the piston to turn it. I think I used a oil drum wrench, or something very far removed for this purpose.
I fought it, but it did work.
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Needle nosed pliers also work. There is a special tool for it... I think I've found it on ebay.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally carComment
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The piston itself has to turn? Like screw in basically?Comment
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Yes, carefully.Comment
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Yeah... I had the same problem i tried to replace my pads.
1988 White GTX - #1 parts
1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
1988 White GTX - #5 Rally carComment
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