View Full Version : FE DOHC 2.2 project

02-27-2010, 06:40 PM
Hello. I've got an engine build I've been working on... for far too long really, but still going strong. I've had a dream of building a 2.2 liter DOHC engine and after I got a steady job I got things rolling. I also had a 626 Wagon that had a pretty old and tired turbo DOHC, and wanted to have a replacement engine for that.

December 2007
I purchased an R2 crank from a wrecker. The R2, for those not "in the know", is a 2.2 liter version of the RF diesel, which itself is a derivative or the FE gas engine. Thus the dimensions are identical to the FE engine, but the crank is invariably forged, unlike the usually cast FE cranks.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_R2-side-resized.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/R2-side-resized.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_R2-flywheel-resized-1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/R2-flywheel-resized-1.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_R2-pulley_resized.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/R2-pulley_resized.jpg)

The differences in the crank are: The flywheel bolt pattern is 8-bolt instead of 6-bolt, the oil pump is driven by splined gear instead of keyed shaft (Diesel oil pump is better, but unfortunately can't be made to fit the FE block) and, unknown to me at the time, a considerable difference in oiling channel arrangement that needed to be taken care of.

February 2008

The Tragedy Block
I picked up the engine from the storage (it had been stored the for 10+ years). I was SUPPOSED to be a dry storage room, but this is how the engine looked:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Rusty_flywheel.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Rusty_flywheel.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Rusty_block.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Rusty_block.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Block_stripped.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Block_stripped.jpg)

So, obviously it had been in contact with the water. Not a promising start, but for a while, thing looked good, the bottom end was in good shape:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_86mmcrank.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/86mmcrank.jpg)

Unfortunately, the feeling sank immediately I got the head off:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Rustycylinders.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Rustycylinders.jpg)

The cylinder were rusted through. The pistons didn't even budge; only after going through the cylinder walls with rotary brush and then leaving the cylinders filled with chloric acid over a weekend released the piston! (and then only by pounding them with a mallet and a wooden peg). With slim hope of rescuing the block, it was crated and shipped to the machinist to be inspected.

The Head Trauma
Actually, things went a lot better with the head. I knew it wasn't cracked, it had never suffered detonation, and obviously, not rusted. It did look quite nasty at the first glance, though. Here's the deal:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_seizedhead.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/seizedhead.jpg)

After some scrubbing with a toothbrush-sized brass and nylon brush and heavily alkaloid cleaning solution, the head looked like this:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_head_cleaned.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/head_cleaned.jpg)

I knew the HLA's were dirty and needed cleaning. A price for one was 120$ at the dealer, so I decided to service the old HLA's; service manuals say not to, but I did. The HLA bucket comes apart with a few deliberate bangs on a wooden surface, and here's how they they were:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_HLADirty.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/HLADirty.jpg)

The HLA's were filled with sludgy oil, those probably would have ticked like hell in use. I used a jeweller's ultrasonic cleaner to clean out the parts with water and the alkali detergent (instructions tell to use one part of soap to fifty parts of water... I used fifty-fifty ;)) and here's how they turned out:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_HLAcleaned.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/HLAcleaned.jpg)

In all, the process took me about 45 minutes in total. Ofter buzzing the parts in the cleaner, I used a hot air gun to heat up the parts, gave a good spray of CRC-556 (the same as WD-40 really) to prevent any remaining water to cause rust, and reassembled them. Back then I planned to use original cams, so I didn't treat the bucket tops, instead I just arranged them in order I could put them back into the head in the same order.

March 2008

I took the block to the machinist and the block was basically sentenced to death at the spot, not to my surprise. The end result was grim; after 0.25mm oversize, the rust pores were basically intact. There was no way the 0.50mm overbore would've cured the problem, the pores probably ran all the way through.

pretty fly...wheel
I wanted to have an alloy flywheel for the engine, since the old one was unusable due to bolt pattern differences and the diesel flywheel weighed like heck. I commissioned a local parts machining shop to make me one.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Sumpcleaning.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Sumpcleaning.jpg)
I spent the month cleaning parts in alkali bath.

April 2008

New Block
As soon as I received a new block, I sent it to the machinist. The problem was I hadn't gotten my pistons yet, so he couldn't bore it yet.

Now, since I was building a stroker with 8mm longer stroke, I couldn't use stock pistons. There was a bulk buy going on at the time for SCAT rods (which is slowly moving on this site, now, as I'm writing this) which ended in a big ball of drama. Since those were for the stock rod length, (150mm), I was looking for pistons with 32mm compression height. Nissan SR20DET pistons did fit the bill on that repsect, but since they didn't have valve pockets and were meant for 2.0 engine, they gave too high compression ratio. I had to specify my very own pistons and for that I started dealing with Wiseco dealer.

The Flywheel
In the last days of the month, I received my alloy flywheel, and that did look great:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_al-flywheel.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/al-flywheel.jpg)

It had quite a few problems still, but those came up much later. As May started to press on, I was pretty sure I wasn't going to meet August 2008 goal for this build...

Crazy Drummer69
02-27-2010, 09:07 PM
Ahh I see you made it over to ClubProtege. What ever happened to that bearings brace?

02-27-2010, 09:25 PM
Ahh I see you made it over to ClubProtege. What ever happened to that bearings brace?

It's in a development limbo right now, I don't have proper woodworking facilities (!) to finish the molding patterns in acceptable quality and I'm *quite* broke right now (out of job since October) so it's a quite uncomfortable situation. I will get back to it once things get better.

Crazy Drummer69
02-28-2010, 12:18 AM
Yeah I know the feeling. Lemme know when that's alive again, I need one as well, stroked FE3 ftw :)

02-28-2010, 06:14 AM
Summer 2008

By now the pace started to slow down significantly. I made a modification to the VICS system; instead of the VICS plenum being fed by other runners, I opened it up to the main plenum.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_MoreVICSporting.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/MoreVICSporting.jpg)

I needed to get a new vacuum reservoir to drive the VICS butterflies but that was not a big issue.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_vacuumreservoir.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/vacuumreservoir.jpg)
I bought an aluminium drinking bottle for vacuum reservoir, it's neat and has machined threads so it'll make a neat piece.

I had ordered a lot of stuff at this point. During april and may, I ordered these items: ACL Duraglide 780 bearings, VR6 valve springs, Fidanza 6-puck clutch and pressure plate, and Wiseco pistons. What I learned from that experience is that when the delivery time is estimated, "weeks" actially mean "months". You might do builds within few months of time in American Hot-Rod, but when you aren't in a reality TV, the actual reality tends to be a whole lot different.

Well, the goods arrived eventually, far too late for me to get to work on them during the summer. So DIY was the word. One thing I did was dress up the parts, The valve cover had been flaked and weathered, so I gave it a whole new look with VHT wrinkle paint:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_valvecoverdressing.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/valvecoverdressing.jpg)

The paint took several weeks to dry completely, but after that I got to polish out the letters and ribs on the valve cover:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_valvecovertouchup.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/valvecovertouchup.jpg)

In all, there wasn't much to do. I started receiving bits during the summer, first the VR6 springs:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Vieterit.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Vieterit.jpg)
(VR6 on the right.)

later, the clutch:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Kytkimenosat.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Kytkimenosat.jpg)
Arrival of the clutch revealed the first problem with the clutch. The cuts in the original crest weren't there just to save weight or for ventilation, but to clear the pressure plate spring straps. Thus I had to take the flywheel (and the clutch) back to the machine shop and have it altered. The good thing was I originally *did* specify the flywheel to have the cuts but the machinist decided not to do them on his own, so I didn't have to pay a thing for them.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_ACLBearings.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/ACLBearings.jpg)

Finally, the bearings. Among several other items, these were considerably cheaper than OEM parts, perhaps the most. There was an interesting issue when ordering the bearings, the ACL manual didn't specify whether to have bearings for engine with oil squirters or without. The difference is the one without squirters have oil holes for the oil channel in the rod, while with squirters you don't need them. It wouldn't have mattered to me much (since DOHCs have squirters), but on a SOHC engine mixing those up would be bad.

All this while the block, head and crank were at the engine machine shop, there wasn't anything I could do with them. I did have a cracked head and the ruined block on which to pattern things but in all, things went really slowly.

03-01-2010, 03:28 AM
more more!!!

03-01-2010, 05:40 AM
ask and you shall receive :D

October 2008

Suddenly, Wiseco. Four of them!

October started out great. The Fidanza cam gear deal was doing magnificently, and the wisecos finally arrived! In this thread it happens within a few posts, but in real life, it took six months for the pistons to arrive! Oh how I am not going to put a single wiseco sticker on my car for that one. Well anyway, the pistons were great. They had xylan coated skirt, lateral gas ports, blow-by gas trap (it should improve 2nd ring performance, anti-detonation grooves, floating pistons and of course, the exact piston dish volume and valve pockets I specified. Superb product even if their delivery time sucked. Then again, summer is always bad in that respect.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_MAZFE22T865.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/MAZFE22T865.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Wiseco.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Wiseco.jpg)

Here's the specification blueprints for the pistons, and an actual piston. We ordered those calling them MAZFE22T865, but I don't know if Wiseco picked it up :)

I also picked up four stick coils from a busted Toyota Yaris Verso, 2NZ engine. I tried them with my original aftermarket ECU for the wagon, but at least with that thing they wouldn't work properly. The engine would idle fine, but splutter and stall under tiniest load. I still need to figure those out. Here they are, anyway:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Densocoil.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Densocoil.jpg)

November 2008

Rods. The bulk buy went completely belly-up after certain rather badly handled affairs, and thus I was left without the set of chromoly SCAT rod forgies I was so looking forward to. I contacted a local manufacturer for a set, not particularly affordable but held at very very high regard in the business. The finnish domestic metal shop "PO-Metalli" agreed to do a single number set, but the price was the same for one rod the bulk buy had for the entire set (For reference, I also contacted a titanium rod manufacturer, and their price for one was the same it was for the set of the four domestically produced steel rods. Interesting multiplication behavior.)

This time, the delivery date was set at two weeks, and sure enough it kept to a day. Given one day for postal service delay, I owned these:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_kammet.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/kammet.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_kammet2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/kammet2.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_kammet3.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/kammet3.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_Kammet4.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/Kammet4.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_rodandpiston.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/rodandpiston.jpg)

Right after that I sent the pistons for the machinist so he could begin to work on the block. (which, at this point, had been lying at his shop for 9 months.)

I also started looking for new valves. I was initially looking for Subaru valves, but they were quite a bit too large for the head, si I resorted to the well-known option, VG30DETT valves (or Nissan 300ZX v6). They match in almost every detail except their valve keepers, which were much shallower. At first I just ordered exhaust valves. They were Ferrea F1850p, 30.5 (1.5mm oversize) super alloy valves.

The third quest was for the fasteners. I needed flywheel bolts, head studs and main studs. There had been some controversy over which head studs would fit the FE engine, and the parts supplier suggested I tried Mitsu 4g63 studs, as they had a paper that said it had 10x1.5 and 10x1.25 threads. Actually it had 10x1.25 on both ends and thus they didn't fit. Fortunately, since this was agreed as a test fit, I could return them with full reimbursement (I kept the money in for the purchase of the actual head studs later.) Flywheel bolts were a stocked item, so those arrived in a couple of days.

Upos receiving the bolts, a second problem with the flywheel emerged. The machinist had done the holes for 10mm bolts, but the actual bolts were 12mm. Not a problem, since again, the 10mm decision was done on the machinist's own discretion, and didn't set me back at all. HOWEVER, when the holes were enlarged, it was obvious the machinist had ALSO messed up the bolt pattern diameter! Now the holes needed to be bored to 2mm oversize and offset and sleeved. Such a note ended November 2008.

December 2008
The alarming signals from world economy had been going on for months and I was on a spending spree with no end in sight. I had to buy a new daily driver car too! (the old Wagon suffered too much from the winter wears). The flywheel issue got more and more messed up. The machinist had made sleeved inserts, but the inserts weren't flush with the flywheel deck anymore! Had I bolted that on, the bolts would've only threaded to half way, and the clutch disc would've interfered with the bolts! At this point I decided not to take it to the parts shop anymore, but the engine machinist who then fixed it properly. It was a sad comedy in the purest.

Well anyway, the valves arrived. They too were pretty as a picture, but there was a problem; the Mazda valve keepers had a huge retaining ridge, far larger than the groove on these valve. I had originally planned on having the grooves machined to fit the mazda keepers, but the machinist held off this idea as too risky and instead urged to find a solution that didn't involve machining the valves.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_venat3.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/venat3.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_Venat2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/Venat2.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_venat1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/venat1.jpg)

The year 2008 ended in mixed feelings. The engine nowhere near the condition I had planned and with very bleak financial prospects in sight for the year 2009. I loved the new parts going into the engine, and had most of the expensive stuff taken care of. One of my goals was to have no bottlenecks nor vastly over engineered parts which I think I was consistent with.

03-01-2010, 11:43 PM
what about 2009???? you know i want more

03-02-2010, 10:28 AM
Had some connection problems yesterday, but here goes...

January 2009
I rethought the decision to keep original valves, as they weren't in top shape anymore, and since I was going to go for oversize exhaust valves, a matching set of intakes seemed like a good idea.

Also, the set of cam gears arrived in the final days of the month. from the bulk buy deal that went on right here in this forum!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_camgears.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/camgears.jpg)

Great many thanks to bpt323 for handling the deal, and the builders who participated!

February 2009

Some nice things happened this month. I ordered a steel gasket from gaskets-to-go, and in few weeks the gaskets did arrive.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_kansitiiviste.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/kansitiiviste.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_kansipahvi.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/kansipahvi.jpg)

Concerns were expressed if it was the FWD layout gasket or RWD from Kia, but sure enough, it was the FWD as specified. I saw no problems with the dimensions or finishing, so thus far it seems like a quality piece!

Also, later in the month the Ferrea intakes arrived. Things sure move faster in the winter!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Vena.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Vena.jpg)
1.5mm oversize, thinned shank and almost exactly to the Mazda size! Things really started to roll on the machine shop.

The valve keeper issue began to press on. The valves accepted CA18, SR20 and 4A-GE keepers, but these were so tiny compared to the mazda keepers, they went right through the Mazda retainer. The look was on for retainers that held the mazda springs and nissan/toyota valves.

March 2009
Pretty soon made another decision to fill the block. The cylinder wall thickness isn't all that great with FE engine, and it was a reasonable trade.off with noise and wear (pre-heat the engine and it's all much better).

I bought a set of 4A-GE valve keepers, and exhausted the toyota dealer supplies entirely from the whole country:D Hope there were no GT Corolla owners in immediate need of new keepers at the time... It was a pleasant deviation from the norm, dealing with OEM supplier; they told me getting the keepers would take a "long time", which was about four workdays.

A problem was discovered at the shop. The exhaust valves were shot, and needed to be replaced. None but the Mazda dealer had those, at truly exorbitant prices. The solution was found in BP DOHC valve guides, which were exactly the same diameter and used the same valve stem seal, but were 3mm shorter. No problem, it would give a small valve guide trim for free :D

Finally, at the last days of march, the block, the head nad the crank returned home, after being 13 months at the shop! The bill was pretty harsh, but the parts were absolutely worth a million.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_deckedhead.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/deckedhead.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_intakeportscleaned.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/intakeportscleaned.jpg)

The head was decked to accept the MLS gasket, valve seats were cut and radiused to match the new valves (the old seats had just enough area to suit the new valves and the ports were cleaned off from any casting imperfections. It really started to look like a high-performance part! Just comparing it to the Titanic shipwreck salvage part it was a year before makes it seem unbelievable.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Balancecuts.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Balancecuts.jpg)

The crank journals got polished and balanced with the flywheel. There wasn't much that needed to be done about balancing, it should be good up to 10k RPM now (of course it's not intended to run that high, it's just for the smoothness).

Since I had to scrap the original block and substitute with a new one, nothing major happened here, here's a a shot of the shiny deck:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_blockdeck.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/blockdeck.jpg)

At this point I got my first furlough notice (a temporary layoff, or non-paid leave). but fortunately I had the bills paid up.

April 2009
April went researching the valve retainer problem. The exhaust valve retainer from an Audi/ VW 20V engine seemed like a suitable candidate, but unfortunately it didn't quite fit the 4AGE keepers. It couldn't be machined either because it was hardened steel, so that didn't provide the answer.

Finally, I decided to go for the Honda B18 retainers. It had a 4.5mm valve shank so it did need machining too, but titanium isn't too difficult to work with (similar to stainless steel), and the valve spring diameters were close enough. I tried to contact Ferrea about this several times, but they didn't answer to any of my contacts. Finally I just ordered a set of ...ferrea... retainers for the Honda B18 from the local retail shop and began waiting.

03-02-2010, 12:22 PM
Summer 2009

The ARP stud deal had stalled many times and finally I contacted ARP themselves on the issue and got a prompt response. The part number drama about FE head stud got cleared right away; upon completion of the measuring form, I got the proper part numbers:

Stud: AU4.800-1LUB
Nut: 300-8308
Washer 200-8514

And that's directly from ARP.

I never asked the number for regular main studs, because I was seriously planning the journal brace, and due to it the head and main studs will be the same.

The summer went largely in no-cost operations on the engine. I got a bit of plastigauge from the machinist as a sort of bonus on the machinist operation so I checked the tolerances of the journals, and sure enough, they were right within the factory specs.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_capson.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/capson.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Journal1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Journal1.jpg)
(obviously I went through all the journals and not just the first ;))

I also started working on painting the block. Even after hot tanking, there still seemed to be a bit of of crust on the block, so I went thgough it carefully with dremel (and kept the grinded spot oiled so it wouldn't billow abrasive particles around:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/th_prepaint.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/prepaint.jpg)
After I had cleaned and dried the block I put on several layers of engine primer:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/th_dryprimer1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/dryprimer1.jpg)

After the primer had dried, I applied several layers of red VHT engine enamel, and after that, a good thick clearcoat.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/th_painted2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/paint%20job/painted2.jpg)

The paint job turned out reasonably good, but I need to take care not to spill any gas or oil on it before the engine has actually run, only after that it has completely dried and cured to withstand hydrocarbons.

After painting, I started to fit the pistons. After referring the internets on how to do it, I got a few good points. First off, the piston ring needs to sit perfectly square and a few centimeres below the deck in the cylinder bore when measuring the end gap. It's easiest to achieve using a piston as the positioning tool, like this:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/th_upsidedownpiston.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/upsidedownpiston.jpg)

I referred to the little instructions sheet that came with the pistons, and decided to use a gap that's a bit large for street engine but below full race engine. With the blades I had meant I'd be using 0.45mm gap on the top ring and 0.5mm on the lower. I didn't have a ring filer so I used a standard diamond file, it took a while but the results weren't too bad.

The instructions I got stated the end gap measurements should be taken from top of the cylinder, from bottom of the cylinder and in the middle, but since I paid good money to have them perfectly square and cylinder, I only took it from the top. The top rings had barely 0.05mm gap straight out of the box, so had I skipped this step, it would've probably ended in immediate engine damage. The bottom rings actually had two that were at 0.5mm from the start, so that saved a bit of work.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/th_goodgap.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/goodgap.jpg)
Here's a good gap, everything sits tight and square in the cylinder, the leaf has just the right tension. If it didn't go all the way to the cylinder wall, the gap would be V-shaped and need more work.

Now, the Mazda WSM suggest rolling the rings on the piston while every engine build manual explicitly tells not to, so I went with the manuals and bought a ring expander for something like $15. After figuring out how to use it, it really made installing rings a joy!
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/th_ringexpander.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/ringexpander.jpg)

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/th_finished.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/pistons/finished.jpg)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_c-clip1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/c-clip1.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_C-clip2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/C-clip2.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_C-clip3.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/C-clip3.jpg)

Getting C-clips in was somewhat tricky. I finally figured out to push the one end in, then help the other end with a miniature screwdriver and finally gently push the end into groove with a flat punch.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_oiled.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/oiled.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_installing.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/installing.jpg)

Installing the pistons went really straight forward. Using generously engine oil on the piston and the cylinder I used a ring compressor and tapped the piston in with the wooden handle of a hammer. At this point I sort of missed the scented motor oils(!) available in japan... not that I would EVER use them in a running motor, but it would make assembling stuff a lot more pleasurable, it sure wasn't an olfactory joyride.

However, after I had installed the pistons, a serious lubrication issue had been discovered at MX6.com; the diesel used fully grooved main bearings, while gas engines used semi-grooved for closer tolerances. The diesel crank only had simple drills through the journal, because it was always facing the oil groove; gas engines instead had cross drilled journals to ensure the proper lubrocation for rod big-end bearing throughout the crank revolution. Thus, similar cross drills had to be done on the diesel crank too. The machinist assured me it was no big deal; forged cranks had tough surface but rather malleable core. Well, we'll see about that in a later post.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_bracemockup.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/bracemockup.jpg)
I started serious work on the engine brace, A wooden mockup was made to indicate any clearance issues; with the 86mm crank, clearances were abundant. The design finalized into this:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_Finalbrace1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/Finalbrace1.jpg)

Now, since I had just taken the crank into shop again, I couldn't check it with 94mm crank. However, the clearances were so great no great difficulties were expected.

I spotted a tiny corroded spot on one the lobes of my exhaust cam, and that made the decision on whether to regrind very simple. (you know how an almost cosmetic blemish on the exhaust makes it a must to regrind the intake into a whole new spec...) So I took the cams to another machinist, who was specialized in valve train modifications. At the same time, my Ferrea retainers arrived.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_retainers.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/retainers.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_Comparison2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Comparison2.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_comparison1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/comparison1.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_comparison3.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/comparison3.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_comparison54.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/comparison54.jpg)
Much sexier and lighter too :D

I sent a valve, keepers. the retainers and a stock valve stup for the machinist along with the cams.

in the late summer, my studs finally arrived, a teaser fit here:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/th_headstuds.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/headstuds.jpg)

03-03-2010, 04:07 AM
September 2009
I got my cams and valve retainers back early in the month. I was planning to build the head right up, but then got thinking about past experience about stripped threads on the earlier engine and decided to wait for a bit to think about helicoiling the exhaust studs. Many people have commented they don't strip easily, but they did for me, and I'd rather go for nine while the head is on a shop table rather than one when the engine is in place. The problem was the bench drill I had didn't have enough depth to mount the head, so the thought got sort of left hanging...

One thing I did though is I serviced the oil pump.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_oilpump.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/oilpump.jpg)
The parts looked quite good right from the start, no issues can be seen here.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gerotorouterclearance.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gerotorouterclearance.jpg)
The outer rotor clearance was fine.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gerotorinnerclearance.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gerotorinnerclearance.jpg)
The rotor tip clearance was excellent too, right on the factory specs.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gerotoraxialclearance.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gerotoraxialclearance.jpg)
Now, this shot left me wondering. It seemed fine, but now I think I might have bended the aluminium rule just so slightly to get a false reading. I perhaps should go in and check it with a steel bar. The good thing is axial play can be cured with home tools.

I also began building the mold patterns for the enginge brace, here's the process.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_Rapidbits.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/Rapidbits.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_patternbits.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/patternbits.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_clayed.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/clayed.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_moldbox.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/moldbox.jpg)

I made the most complex bits with SLS rapid modeling, a company that makes these is working in the same premise our office is at, and we have close collaboration, so it was an easy step ;D Then I used primer and sanding to smoothen the surface a bit (SLS parts are somewhat rough), and filled the hole, I was going to make molds out of this and the hole would've just made things more difficult. The hole is actually inded just to bolt the pattern bit into the pattern base, it's not a feature in the cast part. Finally, the pattern bit was attached to the mold box (I used a cabinet drawer. Perfect size.)

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_RTVpour.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/RTVpour.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_castmold.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/castmold.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_moldblocks.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/moldblocks.jpg)
After the pattern bit was secured in the mold box, I used RTV silicone for it. This was not the optimal choice, it's meant for tin casts, it's a bit too expensive, and much too hard. Nevertheless, it did it's job. The white oval mold was first intended to be used for both bits, but the drag half got a bit screwed up so I had to redo that mold.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_castingresin.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/castingresin.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/th_resinpatternbits.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Brace/resinpatternbits.jpg)
I then made five copies from clear polyester resin for the brace caps. They need trimming so they are all the same height (the mold filling wasn't consistent) and then they will be attached to the cope and drag pattern boards. I haven't quite finished the boards but it's not an awfully far away either.

October 2009
The sheet hits the fan again as I was put on a new furlough again, and this time with much much worse prospects than in March. (sure enough, I managed to get almost full pay from the April, spent July on summer vacation and got called back to work in August). So, that sucked major butt.

Anyway, I fitted the valve springs on the retainers that month. I used t grinding dtone on a mill to cut a tiny portion off the spring's lowest coil.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_springgrinding.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/springgrinding.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_shavedsprings.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/shavedsprings.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_retainerseat.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/retainerseat.jpg)
Using oil the grinding stone took away a tiny amount of material; the ground spring is on the left in the middle picture; there's hardly a lot gone. The retainer seats the spring with a click, which is enough clearance for me :)

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_FEDOHC-3SGE.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/FEDOHC-3SGE.jpg)
I also bought a set of 3S-GE echaust studs, which are the perfect replacement if you need to replace your FE exhaust studs. They're the exact same size and shape, but the Toyota has a 6-pointed external torx head for easy assembly. Pluys they were a *lot* cheaper than Mazda parts. However, since I decided to use helicoils on this head, these went unused (for this build).

The crank with new oil channels arrived at the last days of the month. The machinist gracefully retracted his statement about forged cranks being relatively soft inside, and told it was the toughest, hardest to cut steel he had ever came across.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_xdrill4.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/xdrill4.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_xdrill3.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/xdrill3.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_xdrill2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/xdrill2.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_xdrill1.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/xdrill1.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_R2crank.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/R2crank.jpg)

The crossdrillscame out pretty well, except for the one at the flywheel end, on that the drill started to veer a bit, and the hole grew a bit oblong. That's only a cosmetic issue though, It won't adversely affect the crank in any way.

November 2009 - December 2009
I had very little to do on this time period. The garage I was using (my dad's) had to store a whole heap of stuff from other places, so there was no room to work in, I had no money, and I had to spend hours at employment office and various re-employment programs to receive non-employment compensation (which sucks, anyway).

03-03-2010, 04:13 AM
January 2009

No progress.

February 2009
I got organized some space in the garage, and got an access to a pillar drill, so I got the exhaust manifold stud helicoiling done.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_beforedrilling.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/beforedrilling.jpg)
Here goes. The $1000 head in a $100 pillar drill. Exhaust ports were already taped up, after the first bore I drilled the deck too, to prevent any contamination or scratches from the shavings.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_1stdrilled.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/1stdrilled.jpg)

There, first hole drilled. the 10.5mm drill got just enough to leave faint marks of the original thread; a good thing, I suppose.

[http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_beforetapping.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/beforetapping.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_1sttapped.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/1sttapped.jpg)

I had to get the tap perfectly straight and true for nine times, so I didn't risk with a handle, instead I put the tap on the drill chuck and turned it by hand. Aluminium is soft enough to be workes without extra handles on the chuck, and it was a fairly quick operation. Finally I used a #3 tap to bottom out the thread; if the helicoil tapered at the bottom, it would be BAD.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_threadingin.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/threadingin.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_stubs.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/stubs.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_finishingcoils.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/finishingcoils.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_finishingcoils.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/finishingcoils.jpg)
To my great relief, they all went in easily. I removed the stubs with a magnetized screwdriver, and tightened the coils with a bolt to ensure they all were properly seated in their grooves and the coil wasn't constricted at any point.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_allcoiled.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/allcoiled.jpg)

I got them all successfully coiled, and NOW I can perhaps focus on assembling the head!

03-07-2010, 09:56 PM
Wow nice, that's true engine work right there.

03-12-2010, 04:03 AM
@RussianRed, thanks :)

Unfortunately, this month could've started out better. I was preparing to install the valve springs, but got a bit careless with handling the head, and this happened:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_scratch.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/scratch.jpg)

A scratch, right across the deck... not good. The scratch itself is very very shallow, but may lead to sealing problems eventually. I'll have it checked out by the machinist, and then we'll see what happens. This is another unfortunate delay and money issue, but what can you do? next time, I'll be sure to protect the surfaces more carefully with tape.

03-13-2010, 02:06 AM
Is this GC engine FE pistons are realy fit to FE3?

Crazy Drummer69
03-13-2010, 02:30 AM
Is this GC engine FE pistons are realy fit to FE3?

It's difficult to understand what you're asking. Only FE3/FE-DOHC pistons will work in that engine, no other F series engine pistons will fit. FE-DOHC engines use a four valve per piston design, all other F/R series engines use a two/three valve per piston design. The valve recesses on the pistons are incompatible, even though the other critical dimensions are the same.

He uses the R2 diesel crank (2.2L), custom Wiseco pistons that he and his machinist ordered specifically for this project according to this particular engine's specifications, and custom A-beam rods made locally (to you) by a company called PO-Metalli.

03-13-2010, 04:35 AM
It's from a GD actually. The pistons are custom order from Wiseco. GC has different dome design so while they would fit a stock FE DOHC theiy would make the engine very much an interference type.

03-14-2010, 04:14 AM
If they custom order then ok, I know that was GC Capella turbo and I was thinking that you try to fit this engine pistons to FE3.

Have u read about this 550hp Miata FE3 project? There was FE3 thirled to 2.3 litre and used Chevy rods and SR20DT pisturs and pistonrings if I remember right. If u interested then I can let my husband to find this page.

03-14-2010, 05:04 AM
^ please don't mention that build. its done nothing but haunt the true FE3 community & serve to confuse the rest of the poor bastards thinking about FE3 swaps.


03-14-2010, 08:08 AM
Well, nothing from GC here, the source was Wiseco and I ended up with the design through original research. Though, If I had known I was going to get custom rods too, I would've picked GM 2.2l Ecotec pistons. Since they have 26.75mm compression height, I could've used 159.25mm rods and not have negative effect on stroke/rod ratio, plus it would've been quite a bit less expensive. Well... perhaps on the next build then.

I've read the article with the Miata FE3 and while it's fun to read, it's not a very good guide to follow. First of all the FE block can not be reliably bored to true 2.3l capacity (87.5mm x 94mm), the cylinder wall thickness isn't nearly enough. Looking at the coolant channels in the deck gives a false illusion, the wall thickness isn't 9mm, it's between 3 and 4. The wall thickness is so thin, in fact, that after boring my block to 86.5 overbore we had some discussions and conversations with the engine machinist and decided to semi-fill the block for better cylinder support.

06-04-2010, 02:45 AM
Alright, back to worklog...

April/May/June 2010

The head redecking wasn't at all as expensive as I had feared, and it was quick too! BUT the finish wasn't quite as fine as I had hoped for, and there was swarf EVERYWHERE. Took a fair while to clean.

I finally reshaped my spring compressor to fit the FE DOHC head. I didn't make the extensions quite long enough so I had to grind away from the neck too. Not pretty, but it works.
http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/th_modified_spring_compressor.jpg (http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/modified_spring_compressor.jpg)

Installing the valve keepers really took some patience. There's not a whole lot of room to maneuver, and the valve locks just seem to want to go anywhere but on the groove. I got a nasty surprise, I was one lock short! Must've fallen out of the bag and disappeared. Ah well, fortunately Toyota locks are cheap (something Mazda parts are not...) so I'll pick up an extra soon. Anyway I got all but one valve in place, and even if risking getting ahead of myself, I started building up the intake side valve bank.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/th_intakes.jpg (http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/intakes.jpg)

http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/th_HLA.jpg (http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/HLA.jpg)
Something I neglected to mention was further recondition of the HLA buckets. I had kept them for a long time as they were after cleaning, because used camshafts need used lifter buckets. Since I had reground my camshafts, I had to redo the top of the lifters too. I used at first 80-grit sanding paper to even out the surface, then progress to 120, 400, 800 and 1200 grit to achieve a surface with no scratch marks and sort of dull sheen. The line contact between the lifters and the old camshaft can still be seen on the lifters, but I honestly couldn't feel any distortion on that spot on any of the buckets.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/th_cam.jpg (http://koti.mbnet.fi/~vendigo/Auto/projekti/cam.jpg)
The camshaft got a surface coating, thus the lobes are black. I didn't install the bearing caps just yet, I'm going to do it soon enough tho. The dirty bolts in the pictures are not going to stay there, I've already replaced those with clean bolts.

06-04-2010, 10:57 AM
what treatment did you put on the cam lobes??? & what are your regrind specs?

06-04-2010, 11:12 AM
The cams are nitrided. The new specs are 265 degrees of duration and 9.75mm lift; only slightly more than stock, but for a turbo it's plenty.

06-04-2010, 04:41 PM
no other F series engine pistons will fit. FE-DOHC engines use a four valve per piston design, all other F/R series engines use a two/three valve per piston design.

actually the f2/f2t pistons have 4 valve reliefs. ;)

just dont like incorrect info out there that people might reference in the future.

06-07-2010, 04:26 AM
actually the f2/f2t pistons have 4 valve reliefs. ;)

just dont like incorrect info out there that people might reference in the future.

True, wish I had spotted that :D

The exhaust valves on 12v heads aren't in the center, but offset to either side. Likewise the pistons need valve reliefs on both sides.

Valve layout is like this:

o o o o
o o o o o o o o

...just so you'll know why they have four reliefs ;)

06-09-2010, 07:25 PM
I think I'll be heading out for the Toyota shop to get the missing valve lock tomorrow, in the meanwhile I put some finishing touches on the VICS upper chamber; I already had it in pretty much the right shape in October 2008, but I really wasn't quite happy with the finishing. Here's a quick recap:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_VICSfinished.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/VICSfinished.jpg)

edges are all eaten up and the lip around the long runner bellmouths aren't shaped at all; not the least how I visioned it.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_VICS.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/VICS.jpg)

Here's where I got by this afternoon. I welded the spots were I had accidentally cut the sealing edge and shaped the bellmouth edges from thick and square to thin and round. Next thing to do is perhaps go once through the parts by hand with a sanding paper and then have the flange planed.

I honestly don't know how much, if at all, this will help but I speculate it should give quite a lot of flow to top end. I really should have it compared on a dyno, good thing this bolts right on to stock VICS lower chamber.

06-11-2010, 06:19 PM
June 11. 2010 finished assembling the valve train.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_assemblybegin.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/assemblybegin.jpg)

I bought the crane cams assembly lube while at the store. I like the moly grease, sticks better than oil and everything. I'm betting it's the same stuff ARP sells as special thread lube. And there's a ton of it! The box contained two bags, I used perhaps 1/3rd of the first one. Instructions tell to use the stuff "liberally", I wonder just how much is enough...

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_graygoo.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/graygoo.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_smeared.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/smeared.jpg)

Applied the gray goo. It's not adviced to be used on journals, so I oiled them again instead.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gasketmaker.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gasketmaker.jpg)

The breakout journal cap needs silicone sealant to prevent oil leaks.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_threads.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/threads.jpg)
I used plain oil to lube the threads on the bolts. There probably would've been a set of suitable studs available from ARP, but I rather suspect their benefits here. Of course, high RPM, increased spring tension and increased lift does put more strain to the valve train, but failures here are still rather rare, Anyway, the instruction was to torque to 26 Nm in two or three steps, so I first torqued them to hand tightness, the 20 Nm and finally 26. The torque wrench didn't go below 20....

It's very advisable to torqueing to hand tightness is done in stages, as the cams do counter a bit of resistance from the HLA's and you don't want to force anything in place.Torquing started at the center cap and was finished spiraling outwards clockwise.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_seal.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/seal.jpg)

Finally, the oiled seal is put in place. It slides in pretty easily, no tools required.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_done.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/done.jpg)

....aand done. The CAS is in place to block contaminants from entering the internals; the valve cover is on and the head is in a plastic bag, waiting for the next week.

06-11-2010, 06:48 PM
:ican: i can haz? please???

06-16-2010, 04:48 PM
And now the continuation to the previous article :)

I had been chasing the C-clips for a week, but finally after rummaging the incoming bin, they found them, I paid the 1,50e (you really don't save any money by reusing old clips but risk an awful lot)

While undoing the bolts in the rods, I dropped one of the washers, and decided to take a photo of a little thing with grave consequences if messed up:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_washerbevel.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/washerbevel.jpg)

There's a bevel in the washer, that's to clear the root bevel in the bolt. If the washer goes the wrong way, the washer will collide with the bevel and it won't tighten properly. Little stuff where you can go badly wrong... The piston reinstall went well. piston ring compressor is a great aid, just tap lightly on the piston dome with a wooden handle and it slides almost by itself in. I used standard bolts for the time being, as the bottom end brace is in indefinite future. I torqued the rod bolts to 45Nm (with moly) and main bolts to 75Nm. Under spec, because I had moly at hand and used that stuff. It really is much slicker than oil.

And finally...
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gasket.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gasket.jpg)

the stage where I thought I'd be by May 2008... no such luck. Then again, by all intents and purposes that was entirely different engine back then. The Gaskets-to-go guy advised not to use sealants, so I didn't. It got just a light coat of oil. I put a tiny bead of permatex sealant on the control oil hole, since it has a rubber ring on the stock gasket too and it's a known leak spot.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_studs.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/studs.jpg)

I cleaned and fitted the studs, making sure each threads all the way in. According to ARP, thread locker on the block end thread is okay, as long as the tightening is done while the stuff sets, so I was in a bit of a rush after applying the locker. ARP moly lube went on on the fine threads (and nut flanges), it's great the the end with the nut is fine pitch thread, all the more reason to use them. Aligning the head with studs is a great deal more delicate job than with bolts. I must say working inside the DOHC head takes some nimble digits!

After a brief stint of panic over 14mm 12-point socket, it was found and I got to torque the head. The numbers I got from ARP are INSANE compared to OEM bolt ratings. Apples to apples, the OEM torque is 80-86Nm and ARP was 162! With moly lube the advised torque was 110Nm, however.

And so, years overdue...
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_assembled.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/assembled.jpg)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_gears.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/gears.jpg)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_assembled2.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/assembled2.jpg)

The engine is back in one piece!

Well, not quite, there are still important stuff like the oil pump missing, rear crank seal and such, but the principal assembly is finally done! It cleared up the garage a *lot* too. Also there's the brace/girdle I'm going to do, besides stiffening the block it allows me to use the main studs too! Making the girdle tightening height 18mm I could use head bolts or head studs as mains, pretty crafty isn't it :)

I decided not to keep the cam gears visible, as fashionable and beautiful they are. This decision is simply because I want to keep the belt as free from contamination as possible. Oil mist as such is bad for the rubber in the plastic, but that's not all. The light oily surface is sure to pick up dust and other solid particles, creating an abrasive coating on the cam belt. I've seen a few shots ot totally worn out cam gears, and while bad material quality sure has to do with it, I'm quite sure the dust and oil have done their part too. The covers do a great job shielding the belt, when the engine I took off from the 626 hatch was literally covered in grime and dirt, the belt and wheels were pristine.

Things are very very slowly picking up with employment. There are still certain very expensive parts to buy (turbo and intercooler, fuel system) which I'm hoping to get to buy this year. this summer preferrably.

06-17-2010, 01:05 AM
I need to get my hands on one of those lovely MLS gaskets....... what do i need to specify when i order one?

06-17-2010, 02:43 AM
I only specified I need Mazda/FWD configuration, it was very easy. Best of all, it arrived as maxi letter to my post office. It was never taxed or dutied, I guess the customs were too preoccupied with looking for funny substances to realize there was almost two hundred euros worth of hardware (two gaskets) in it :D

They are offering to make one-off gaskets from DXF files, so I guess I'll order a gasket for my hacked VICS too.

06-29-2010, 03:01 PM
Alright, today I went shopping and bought this:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_cooler.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/cooler.jpg)

3" ports, a proper water/air 120x120x280mm core and decent construction, at 249 euros I think it was a good purchase, I'm just going to test it for leaks and then figure out how to fit it in the car...

Here's the shot of the core:
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_fins.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/fins.jpg)

The water passages are much smaller than air passages, which is good.

There were many reasons to choose air-to-water setup, some more pressing than other. Firstly, I want to move the actual radiator in front of the radiator frame, so there would be very little space for the air/air unit. I also didn't want to block the radiator with the air cooler, and I don't need to run the plumbing through the frame. The intake temperature can also be better controlled (a big deal in the winter), the cooler has less pressure drop and the plumbing is simpler (though the overall complexity is higher).

The engine itself is slowly coming together, here's the situation today (29th of June):

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_29-6-10.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/29-6-10.jpg)

I still need to finish the intake and start working on the exhaust manifold and brackets, but now the internals are no longer exposed. Somewhat of a milestone.

07-03-2010, 10:52 AM
leave the gears open :)

07-23-2010, 01:05 PM
Alright, I purchased a set of studs for the exhaust flange. I originally planned to make a set of asymmetric 10x1.25 + 10x1.5 mm studs, however I discovered a source for good 10x1.5 exhaust studs and flange nuts at a cost about the same as a single DOHC exhaust nut, I decided to drop that idea and get factory made studs instead.

I took the oil pan off, there was a snapped bolt in one of the threaded holes (Cast sump has integral transmission supports) which was impossible to get out; finally I bored the body of the bolt off, and now the threads (or what's left of them) are visible on the old threads; And still, even when they're little more than steel wire on the thread, they STILL refuse to come out. One must wonder how the heck can aluminium and steel fuse so tightly together.

07-24-2010, 02:42 AM
3sgte exhaust studs???

07-25-2010, 05:07 AM
Originally I really did plan for the 3SGTE studs, but then I decided to helicoil threads (Stripped two threads in the old engine) and ended up with 10x1.5 threads while the Toyotas were 10x1.25, same as the Mazda... So I had to source some BMW studs (another colorful patch on the 'spot the source'-quilt!)

The 3SGTE studs make a killer replacement for the original studs, I fully recommend getting those! While I was left with an unused set for now, I am planning to use them in another engine, far less ambitious than this one. I'm going to update my wagon into full luxury DD/cruiser and stuff like filled block and forged pistons aren't the best options for such application.

This engine, on the other hand, is going into a rebuilt Hatch (touring sedan), which is going to converted into an AWD (I've got the donor car already bought and disassembled) and some drastic actions are taken to reinforce the gearbox. I know what people are saying about the Mazda AWD box in high power applications, but I think I have a few more tricks up my sleeve not yet tried with it.

07-25-2010, 05:34 AM
im planning to grab some 3sgte studs for my setup.... i'll start with whatever ones came out & work from there

07-25-2010, 11:32 AM
i still get all mine at the local hardware store. they have never not had them in stock. and at $2 a piece for being in stock and local. i dig them. plus there hardened, and ive never had one fail. PILE_OF_RD1 didnt believe me yesterday, and even found a set in town when i told him.

07-25-2010, 12:31 PM
3SGTE studs have external torx heads, which is nice... stud extractor is difficult to manage around the cyl #4 ;)

07-25-2010, 03:57 PM
Pat just normal hardware studs from per say ACE?

07-25-2010, 04:52 PM
Yup. Do it best hardware, or bobs hardware is where i always get them. And for removal, i never used a stud extractor. I just use two nuts. 1 to lock into the other. Then u just remove it with a wrench.

08-01-2010, 02:30 AM
any updates recently???

Im pulling my FE3 back out next week to start physically prepping it for the H transmission/ Future toyota AWD system

Crazy Drummer69
08-01-2010, 03:30 AM
toyota AWD system

GL with that one... Darryl was saying it won't work without the engine sitting at a silly 45* angle.

08-01-2010, 03:34 AM
darryl isn't the only one who's looked into it ya know ;)

but lets not clutter STW's thread......... take it to mine

08-01-2010, 12:59 PM
Well, at least someone's being active here :D I've been enjoying the exceptionally warm summer at the countryside :) (It's been the hottest summer of the recorded history in Finland)

Soon the summer is turning to fall, and so it's time to get serious with the build, especially as I'm re-employed again :) The next step is going to be the exhaust manifold and a bunch of brackets. The sump needs fixing, and I really, REALLY have to get on with the journal brace thingy. I really distress over using stock bolts in the bottom end when everything else has been upgraded and uprated to ridiculous degree.

Dry sump is really beginning to tempt me, especially as the AWD front subframe seems to be about 2cm deeper (engine closer to ground). It's enough to make a more shallow sump quite an attractive choice.

10-03-2012, 03:44 PM
Oh wow, it's been two years since I last posted on this thread... ah well. I need to start juggling the schedule between building the car and finishing the engine... anyway, I finally received the turbo, so here's the shots of the both compressor stages:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_2012-10-03-111.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/2012-10-03-111.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_2012-10-03-112.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/2012-10-03-112.jpg)http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/th_2012-10-03-113.jpg (http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/2012-10-03-113.jpg)

It's been way way too long, but the engine build is at last on it's final stretch!

The injectors will be Bosch EV14, 2200cc. I dropped the idea for staged injection, too many hassles vs benefits. I'm still thinking about which ignition system to adopt. Plasma ignition sounds interesting, I need to study it a bit to see if it's hogwash or a real deal. Winter starting on E85 is going to need a big spark, for one.

10-03-2012, 08:29 PM
very interested to follow what you do learn about the plasma ignition. its been awhile since i checked into it myself.

10-09-2012, 09:54 AM
Plasma systems seem quite expensive, and I'm not totally sold on their superiority just yet. It's somewhat difficult to obtain useful information, as many articles about plasma plugs are variations of the HHO bull. The good thing is they're a direct replacement for more traditional systems, so I can just use regular COP/wasted spark ignition and upgrade later if they prove viable.

12-17-2013, 08:00 PM
Okay, here's what's up. I finally got a proper job, one that's steady and pays well. Since this engine won't be going into the Hatch, or the Wagon, a new solution has to be found. After considering getting an AWD or RWD an opportunity emerged which I took. Agreed, it's not either of those, it's a FWD car, but it complements the set well. It's the Coupe.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/6055026_b_7a60bd780767ee11_zpsee73b94b.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/6055026_b_7a60bd780767ee11_zpsee73b94b.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/6055026_b_b5ba714c8ffcc677_zps915fa26c.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/6055026_b_b5ba714c8ffcc677_zps915fa26c.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/6055026_b_30270715701f66de_zps4c904e1f.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/6055026_b_30270715701f66de_zps4c904e1f.jpg.html)

That's my baby! It's a 1988 Coupe in *very* good condition, GT DOHC, no cat, no 4WS, no AAS, no rust. It has under 200k km on it, and I'm the fourth owner. The engine is in great condition but that'll have to go; I'll make a new turbo engine for the Wagon out of it eventually.

Now, It's not the immediate project; first I need to get the AWD running. Because it's not going to be as insane as I thought I'll manage with less reinforcing modifications, and hopefully I'll get it done in not too long a time. Then the Wagon needs restoring, the floor pan has extensive rust damage, overall it's a much lesser job.

The Coupe will get the 2.2-16T+SC engine. The stock gearbox would be history If tried to use that, but fortunately there is quite an elegant solution. The turbodiesel Mazda 3 and 6 use RF-sourced block, which means identical bolt pattern with FE block. The gearbox used in 2010+ models is th A26M-R, also known as Aisin BG-6, a high torque 6-speed gearbox. The factory stated max torque is 400Nm (300ft lbs) and it's gearing is still useable with the gas engine, though it's pretty much a 4-speed box in regular driving. The theoretical top speed at stock red line is 400 km/h! There's also a Quaife ATB diff available, and not at extremely terrible price either. I think I'll need custom shafts, but with all the custom work already gone into the build, it's just another routine task. Hopefully I'll get to it soon.

12-18-2013, 01:35 AM
Isn't the diesel 6spd trans the same one neville is/was using??
if so you might seek some handy advice from him- his setup turned out well.


that list shows that several different cars are using the bg-6 box. which might help for gear interchangeability.

01-17-2014, 04:14 PM
Sorry, forgot to reply! :) Yeah, Neville used the same box, shame I was so focused on gettin the AWD sorted out I didn't ask him more about the install. He hasn't been online for some time now.

I ordered mine from eBay, paid 320€ for it (about 430USD at the time). I'm a bit anxious if it's a wreck, but at that price the risk is worth taking. "Big" doesn't even begin to describe the thing. It's *huge*. I weighed it, it's 68kg (150lbs). The original G5M (G stands for Glass) isn't too hard to pick up with one hand, this however...

I'll see how the gearing works with my engine. The original GT (16v) transmission was so short it was bothersome with the turbo. I wished I had a taller final drive, but since the secondary shaft is shot-peened and heat treated for higher toughness in the wagon gearbox (Isn't that nice, yet another Mazda gearbox variety with ZERO external recognition feature), I didn't want to swap. So, now I'm at the other end of the spectrum. The ratios with the diesel are quite tall, but not terribly far apart, and if the engine is anything I predict the gearbox should work pretty well. Disel has an open diff; Quaife has an ATB differential for the A26M (this one (http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdf7f), but it's quite expensive as it would cost almost a thousand euros.

Another nifty feature of the A26M-R is it's seemingly only a few milling passes away from being an A26MX-R ;) There's no center diff in the AWD version, the speed difference is handled by a haldex clutch (which I don't like much, but what do you do...) And then there's this nasty FTSA bureaucracy making sure I never needed to find out about it.

01-17-2014, 05:31 PM
id be interested to see the differences between the A26M & the X version.

$430USD isn't too bad for a newer trans tho. get some pictures up when you can!!

01-17-2014, 06:06 PM
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/AWD/A26MRvsA26MXR_zps3cca46dd.png (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/AWD/A26MRvsA26MXR_zps3cca46dd.png.html)

This, as far as I've understood, is the *only* internal difference between A26M and A26MX; The extra internal splines in the diff. The hollow shaft for the transfer unit (right angle drive) is driven by those. The bearing might also be larger in the AWD, but haven't seen the part numbers on those. (Edit: there is only one number for the gear-opposite end bearing press SST, which would indicate the size is the same. Or that the tool is multipurpose.) The other differences are the larger oil seal to accommodate the hollow shaft, mounting points for the transfer unit and, obviously, the transfer unit itself (d'uh!). My dad has an AWD CX-7 so I should have a handy reference, but the gearbox is *well* hidden. I'd need a boroscope to see the diff without lifting the car or disassembling a lot off top of the engine bay.

01-17-2014, 06:35 PM
Ffffffuuuuuuu *rage*

Realized something. MZR-CD has a 240mm clutch. Meaning my very expensive custom G5M-sized (225mm) 8-bolt aluminum flywheel WILL NOT FIT. TO ANY OF MY ENGINES. :facepalm:

Not without further modifications anyway, which will not be easy or cheap to make.

01-18-2014, 11:27 AM
Got some photos. Sorry about the dodgy quality, I didn't have my proper camera with me. Not really surprisingly, the A26M is slightly shorter than G5M (twin vs triple shaft tend to do that), but other than that, they're worlds apart. I remembered correctly, G5M is not too difficult to lift with one hand, which puts is well below 20kg mark.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/A26MvsG5Mtop_zps648b7b27.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/A26MvsG5Mtop_zps648b7b27.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/G5Mtop_zps865f91b1.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/G5Mtop_zps865f91b1.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/A26Mtop_zps733acf15.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/A26Mtop_zps733acf15.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/A26vsG5Mend_zps11ae4241.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/A26vsG5Mend_zps11ae4241.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/A26MvsG5Mflywheel_zpsc29b0bc2.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/A26MvsG5Mflywheel_zpsc29b0bc2.jpg.html)

01-18-2014, 04:59 PM
G5M= just shy of 35kg I forgot what the H box is. but still... 150lb transmission- thats heavy! reminds me of an automatic gearbox
subbin to see the results that comes from this!!

01-20-2014, 08:01 AM
From the data I got from teh internetz (I can't believe Workshop Manual no longer state gear ratios) I did a graph of rpm vs speed vs gear graph:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/MZRCD-Speedgraph_zpsdd2848a8.png (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/MZRCD-Speedgraph_zpsdd2848a8.png.html)

It's a tall gearing, but if the supercharger works at all as it should be quite usable. There should be plenty of power from 2000RPM on. I don't actually plan to run the engine to 7k RPM too often, but it's a good top figure for this application. And it's a good indication 300km/h should be attainable if the engine delivers it's full potential.

01-21-2014, 04:11 PM
do you have "gearcalc"?? itsa pretty handy calculator for gear ratios & all things related. if you don't message me & i'll get a copy emailed to you

01-21-2014, 05:01 PM
I have the one from Locost7. There's a slight snag with A26M and the software, though. The two secondary shafts have different final gear ratios, and while you could recalculate the gear ratios to compensate, you could just as well do your own spreadsheet :D

I once did a bit more onvolved gear-related spreadsheet while studying for BsE/Mech. It calculated the tentative power capacity and hobbing parameters for gears in a gearset. The assignment was for a single-speed reduction gear, I did a 6-speed gearbox...

01-21-2014, 06:26 PM
looking back on my post.... i should know better :P

01-23-2014, 03:29 AM
Here's more from the MPS6(MS6) training manual... http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/AWD/Transfer_zps3f9350e5.png (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/AWD/Transfer_zps3f9350e5.png.html)
Pretty much confirms the differences between A26M-R and A26MX-R are moderate at worst. I'm not having plans on AWD-MX6 though, it needs application specific control boxes that aren't too plentiful and trying to get it approved would truly be a nightmare. And with a turbo there is no possibility for approval.

03-20-2014, 08:50 AM
One of the last missing key pieces of the engine is one step closer to the finish line:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/rev3_zps5dda5db9.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/rev3_zps5dda5db9.jpg.html)

The tube parameters, 40x2mm at 60mm bend radius were dictated by the available material. There's still a tiny bit of slack in the design, but I believe that's the final general arrangement. The flange is split T4, and the exhausts are arranged in the proper 1+4/2+3 order , on left and right turbine ports. The turbine is near the centerline of the car, to give it a bit more hood clearance. It's likely the hood still needs to be modified to make the turbo fit, but that might just as well be, since I'm planning on an Evo-style hood vent anyway. The exhaust tubes flare at the exhaust port flange. This is to distribute the loads to a greater area, and also to provide anti-reversion. Also it simply looks much better.

The material is AISI 309 heat resistant stainless steel. It's primary uses are for kiln liners, furnaces, boilers and car exhausts. It's very resilient to cracking up to 950 degrees C with intermittent heating (furnaces that don't have thermal cycles can go higher) and won't start to scale until around 1030 degrees. I expect the exhaust should last for a long time.

03-20-2014, 02:57 PM
I took a look in your gallery & noticed anti reverberation pockets... think that will be a large benifit?

any plans to make more then 1 of these flanges?? :blue:

Also where are you sourcing this 309 SS? I haven't heard of that before. How do you plan to weld it?

03-20-2014, 04:23 PM
I don't know how much and what kind of effect the antireversion pockets would have... I followed literature that stated it's a good thing to have, and on the forums say they're terrible and kill power, others say they're awesome and make the engine so much better, so I don't know really. However, the advice is the cones should be as close to the exhaust flange, and going 8mm into the flange, I can't think of much closer placement ;) The 40x2mm (36mm inner diameter) tubing is actually just slightly smaller than the exhaust port area (the area is equivalent to 36.8mm diameter circle), so smooth transition was needed.

EDIT: I'll rephrase myself a bit here. As the theory goes, anti-reversal cones/pockets are to prevent the reflecting shockwave from entering the cylinder and screwing up the gas dynamics within. A point against the pockets is there should be very little of reflected shockwaves with a twin-scroll turbo and properly arranged arranged pulses, and the pockets would just cause interfering turbulence. However nothing is ever simple and absolutes are preciously rare in engine tuning business, so I'll include them into the design and see how they'll work for me.

About the flange, I have further ideas on how to refine it. Though it's most critical with log style manifolds, the differential thermal expansion in the exhaust tubing and the flange will cause warping and all kinds of undesirable effects. So, instead of having one, I was thinking of having and individual flange for each port. It's not as easy with FE as it is with some other engines, as each of the bottom three bolts are shared with two ports. The usual method is cutting the flange apart at the center, leaving a half-circle under each nut. I don't like this solution very much, so I'm considering an older solution; the shared studs are fitted with a strap clamp which seat onto both flanges and thus provide independent fastening for each flange and solid circle for the nut. There are some issues that might prevent using it, but I'm going to look at it (this similar solution was used in eg. Daimler-Mercedes engines during The Great War and Armstrong Siddeley car engines, it's a good method.

03-20-2014, 06:27 PM
The part about SS309 got nuked, strange.... probably deleted it myself on some re-edit.

Anyway, there is a local webshop (AMW Dyno Services (http://amwdynoservice.com/page25.php?category=25&view=productListPage)) who produce these rather exact bends for exhaust use... but the price is pretty steep as said. VAT is 24% though, so non-eu customers will get quite a bit of discount on the price)

I have (access to) GTAW/TIG welding equipment, so I'll be using that. Some years ago I did welder certification too, so welding won't be a problem. My bandsaw is pretty crappy though, getting the cuts true and square is perhaps the greatest challenge in the build.

03-20-2014, 11:17 PM
very intrigued to see some pictures of that metal arise. & keep me in the loop on flange variations you might use.

03-21-2014, 08:39 PM
I did a mock-up with proper parts I found after frantic search. Here it is:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/mockup_zpsdfa8228d.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/mockup_zpsdfa8228d.jpg.html)

There are few important interface pieces still missing, such as the intake part of the supercharger, pulley, top part of the supercharger and the aftercooler. It'll be a tight fit.

03-21-2014, 09:16 PM
Did you model those yourself??

03-21-2014, 09:20 PM
Everything except the turbo, which I couldn't bother. I did the head in 2009, I need to finish it someday.

03-28-2014, 03:46 AM
I assembled the scrap head and scrap block for a pattern engine, and mocked up the supercharger position. Not encouraging. I have the full M65 setup with OEM supercharger cover, and it brings the return duct *very* close to the exhaust. I took some crappy photos with my super-terrible phone cam:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/compressor-1_zps1029f725.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/compressor-1_zps1029f725.jpg.html)
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/compressor-2_zpsb6ad6adf.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/compressor-2_zpsb6ad6adf.jpg.html)

The perspective distortion doesn't indicate how damn tight those are. The top of the arch is closer than 110mm vertical and 130mm horizontal from the exhaust port center on the exhaust mating surface.

The lower coolant hose can be seen in the vertical photo. It may allow a 1-1.5 cm crawl room towards the radiator (can't understand why it's called radiator, it works through convection) but that's still quite tight.

I have to raise the turbo again by perhaps 10mm and re-arrange the exhaust into tighter package still, and see that cylinder 3 & 4 exhaust are routed far enough left to clear the ductwork.

at 800USD a piece, you don't want to make too many test exhausts!

03-28-2014, 10:22 AM
Toilet paper rolls and tape. Make a mock up

Sent from my iPhone5
using Tapatalk

03-28-2014, 04:55 PM
I'd need to cut a hell of a lot of slits to bend the toilet roll tubes... the runners have very little straight tubing, total for all four is 400mm.

I figured some changes might be needed. The standard radiator may need to go. To reduce cooling needs, I could coat the combustion chambers and exhaust ports with ceramic heat barrier (and piston tops too, with heat dissipation coating on the underside to increase heat transfer to oil) Then, I could use waterless coolant which allows the engine run at much higher temp than the boiling point of water (it's fine, the engine actually likes to run a bit hot as long as the coolant doesn't boil); greater temperature difference increases cooling effect, and staying with E85 on all of the more spirited driving sessions will further reduce the heat load. The replacement radiator will be the funny 1910-esque civic 370x460mm radiator, which fits great between the headlight post, on the forward side of the radiator frame.

Such an arrangement would free up cool 60mm of extra clearance forward, giving much more freedom to play with the setup.

04-08-2014, 12:30 PM
60mm makes a world of a difference. I needed to rethink my radiator for the forward clearance too. & my setup is not anywhere near as complex.
keep up with the updates!

04-08-2014, 02:56 PM
The frame forward radiator should help a great deal indeed... I quess it pretty much precludes any chance for an A/C installation though.

I bought the driveshaft for the new gearbox, and like before, beastly is the word that first comes to mind, again. Here we go:

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/Shafts_zps1a6ee622.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/Shafts_zps1a6ee622.jpg.html)

Above are the new parts, below are the original. It almost looks as if the A26 parts were much closer to the camera, especially the intermediate shaft. The original shaft is 24mm in diameter, the new one is 37, and the splines are just enormous compared. The difference with half shafts are lesser, but still considerable. The shaft is 28mm vs 24 on the G-type, and the splines are enormous. The next photos will highlight the differences.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/shafts3_zps9f25fb79.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/shafts3_zps9f25fb79.jpg.html)
You'd think the new shaft end was much closer to the camera, but they're pretty even. The apparent difference in size is pretty much the actual difference in size.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/shafts2_zps4d289d83.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/shafts2_zps4d289d83.jpg.html)
The length of the splined parts are constantly almost twice the original, and much larger in other dimensions too. The spline diameter on the new parts is 32mm, where in the original G-type it's 26mm.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd300/Koivusalo/engine%20work/shafts1_zps89a6b8fd.jpg (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/Koivusalo/media/engine%20work/shafts1_zps89a6b8fd.jpg.html)
Peculiarily, the drive shaft splines are shorter than original. They are, however, thicker by a considerable margin.