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    Cooling System

    Been noticing recently my temp guage rises a bar (sometimes two) when I come to a stop and sit for a few seconds after driving for a while.

    With windows down and heat on blast, start driving again and guage goes back to normal operating temp. (Fan comes on perfectly fine)

    Looking to flush engine and install brand new: radiator & cap, upper/lower hoses, thermostat & gasket as these parts all seem due for replacement.

    My question is . . Do any of these parts share the same part number as the non-turbo BF 323 ?

    *Only asking cause part stores I call all have the aforementioned items I listed non-turbo & turbo as the same.

    #2
    The everything but the cap is different I think. The thermo and gasket may be the same.

    1988 White GTX - #1 parts
    1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
    1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
    1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
    1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

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      #3
      Before you go off replacing half your cooling system, try something. Next time you stop and notice your temp gauge go up, don't turn the heat on. Just take off again. If the gauge goes back to it's normal spot, you likely don't have a problem, it's just the gauge being accurate. When you remove the airflow over the radiator, it will get a bit hotter under the hood. Also, check and make sure your coolant level is where it's supposed to be. If it isn't, start looking for the leak, fix that and see where it gets you. A coolant flush is a good idea, though, as old coolant tends to disintegrate bits of your cooling system.

      Sorry to go off topic a bit; just trying to save you a bit of time and money.
      1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

      Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

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        #4
        Thanks for the replys fellas.

        Mazda323Fan . .appreciate your 2-cents.

        Absolutely no leaks, but I tried what you said and temp did go back to normal w/o the heat on. It's just my experience (in any car) once I see temp go passed its norm, justa natural reaction to put blower on full blast to prevent overheating til I get home to check it out.

        Guess as sick as the BF digital dash is, sometimes its hard to accurately determine that fine line between norm and too hot due to bar-display instead of an actual analog needle with numbers.

        -Thanks again
        Last edited by turbojace; 03-30-2010, 04:42 PM. Reason: mis-spelling

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          #5
          ..if the hoses are stiff, if that stuff doesn't look like it's been replaced in say the last decade, you might be doing yourself a favor replacing all that stuff on your list anyhow. Call it cheap zoom zoom boom insurance. I prefer fixing stuff before it breaks. This may be because it happens so rarely... the car has a way of beating me to the punch as it were.
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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            #6
            Bro I have been on the phone . . internet . . even on foot to at least 25 different sources today to find a radiator for this thing and came up with ziltch.

            From REAL Parts stores to very well known radiator shops in my area, seems like nnnnooooo-one has a stock "TURBO MODEL" replacement radiator for these cars. Only ones showing up are the se model which does not have the female threaded holes for top and bottom sensors.

            Only other option I found is to have the current one re-cored. Upper/lower hoses are not stiff so I've come to the conclusion to simply do a cooling system flush and since its off . .install brand new thermostat & gasket w/ fresh antifreeze

            Comment


              #7
              You might check ebay for an aluminum race type thing. I got one for my rallycar that's a drop in fit and didn't cost much more than crap oem.
              '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
              '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
              http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

              Comment


                #8
                Dude, i have my stock radiator from my GTX sitting in the garage if you want it, i think the sensors are still in it
                "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

                Originally posted by neuspeedescort
                the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
                -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
                -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
                -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
                -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
                -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

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