If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Get the best deals for miata arp head studs at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
This set consist of bolts and nut. On my B6T the original head fasternes are bolts with head(not nut and bolt). This is ok i guess? i will just hand-tighten the bolts in and then put on the nut and tighten to specified torque.
Can anyone confirm this is ok, or did I actually get the wrong type?
From what I've read you instal the studs before putting the head on and tq those in the block then install the head and tq the nuts down. And yes its a nut/stud combo
1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
2010 VW routon
Originally posted by jay
.....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?
Mine said install the studs hand tight in the block. Make shure the holes are clean and there's no water/oil in them before you install the studs.
12 cbr250r: daily ride
01 saab 9-3: daily
98 gsxr 1100: for sale
93L: money pit/ space waster
92GL: low and slow beater
90?: the rust free shell
89LX: swapping to rust free shell
89L: for sale
89L: parts
87 conquest: dohc 4g64 swap underway
76+80 vw dashers: for sale
If your running ARPs make sure you follow thier directions very closely especially the clean threads and clean bolt holes, ON my old Diesel the ARP studs had to be installed first by hand then install the heads and torque them in 4 stages to 110FTlbs 5 TIMES in order to take all the stretch out the the studs before it was safe to run the motor.
just my .02
1988 323 GTX - "Miss Becky" - VJ-11, Autometer Sport Comp boost gauge, Sachs Clutch, K&N Air Filter. Freshly rebuilt engine with Clevite Bearings, Fel-Pro Gaskets and NGKs, 2.5" Exhaust from turbo back with a Turbo muffler.
1970 Chevelle SS - "Krista"/"ALMYDOE" - restored from the ground up, 350/350, lowered 2" frnt 1" rear, flowmaster 40 series, Holley Street Avenger, GMPP intake, American Racing Torqlites. (Ported and Polished ZZ4 Aluminum Heads coming soon)
If your running ARPs make sure you follow thier directions very closely especially the clean threads and clean bolt holes, ON my old Diesel the ARP studs had to be installed first by hand then install the heads and torque them in 4 stages to 110FTlbs 5 TIMES in order to take all the stretch out the the studs before it was safe to run the motor.
just my .02
I just installed my new head with the ARPs that came with my engine. Hopefully they were pre-stretched, as I only torqued them to about 65ft/lbs.
The best deal I have found on ARP head studs is through importperformanceparts.net I think they charged like 70 bucks, I cant remember. That might have been the price for the cometic head gasket. At any rate, I paid 200 shipped for both the cometic MLS gasket and head studs. Part # 218-4701
Edit: I was way off on price, they're 145 through them. I swear thats more than I remember paying. They must have raised the price
As far as torque, we had a long discussion over on mt.net about what should be proper torque for our heads with these studs. ARP recommends 80ft lbs which the consensus is WAY too much and people have cracked the bosses on their heads with this amount of torque. I think the magic number was somewhere around 50. The stock torque is 60, so I went with 60 on my application.
Head studs provide way more clamping force per ft/lb of torque so it is ridiculous that you'd need even more torque than the stock head bolt configuration.
Hmmm, i must admit I cant remember the exact torque i went for, but it was 70 or 80 ft lbs!
Engine still haven't been started, but i cant really decide wheather to keep the the current torque or loosen and re-torque...if can i do that without compromising the effect of the bolt.
Comment