ARP bolt part numbers for B6T?

[mazda-dude]

Could anyone assist with part numbers for Head bolt for the B6T engine? if possible also other ARP related to the B6T

Thanks

[yunvmyegt]

same as the bp set, try ebay i just paid like 110 or 115 shipped for mine,it came in 3 days,.....


here,

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=miata+arp+head+studs&_sacat=0&_dmpt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=miata+arp+studs&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

[trailrider098]

If you can't find them on eBay they are definitly in stock at flyinmiata.com just search "arp" and they have head and main bolt sets

[Rustypro]

the miata bolts will work for the b6t

[mazda-dude]

Hi

bought a miata set with arp no 218-4701 for my 323 like these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Mazda-Miata-1-6L-B6-1-8L-BP-Head-Studs-218-4701-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2c5a46ef71QQitemZ190493159281QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

This set consist of bolts and nut. On my B6T the original head fasternes are bolts with head(not nut and bolt). This is ok i guess? i will just hand-tighten the bolts in and then put on the nut and tighten to specified torque.

Can anyone confirm this is ok, or did I actually get the wrong type?

Regards,

[Turpro]

From what I've read you instal the studs before putting the head on and tq those in the block then install the head and tq the nuts down. And yes its a nut/stud combo

[shorestiva]

Mine said install the studs hand tight in the block. Make shure the holes are clean and there's no water/oil in them before you install the studs.

[trailrider098]

Mine said install the studs hand tight in the block. Make shure the holes are clean and there's no water/oil in them before you install the studs.

This is correct. The Allen key on top is just for removal.

[mazda-dude]

This is correct. The Allen key on top is just for removal.

what allen key?

[_Shocker_]

Newer version or maybe the pro version has the allen key

Does anyone have a spare set of Head Bolts from a B6T that havent been re-torqued more than 1 time?

[chevyboy_0]

If your running ARPs make sure you follow thier directions very closely especially the clean threads and clean bolt holes, ON my old Diesel the ARP studs had to be installed first by hand then install the heads and torque them in 4 stages to 110FTlbs 5 TIMES in order to take all the stretch out the the studs before it was safe to run the motor.

just my .02

[psiturbo]

what allen key?

WOW

[DuRWooD]

If your running ARPs make sure you follow thier directions very closely especially the clean threads and clean bolt holes, ON my old Diesel the ARP studs had to be installed first by hand then install the heads and torque them in 4 stages to 110FTlbs 5 TIMES in order to take all the stretch out the the studs before it was safe to run the motor.

just my .02

I just installed my new head with the ARPs that came with my engine. Hopefully they were pre-stretched, as I only torqued them to about 65ft/lbs.

[Wayne_curr]

The best deal I have found on ARP head studs is through importperformanceparts.net I think they charged like 70 bucks, I cant remember. That might have been the price for the cometic head gasket. At any rate, I paid 200 shipped for both the cometic MLS gasket and head studs. Part # 218-4701

Edit: I was way off on price, they're 145 through them. I swear thats more than I remember paying. They must have raised the price

As far as torque, we had a long discussion over on mt.net about what should be proper torque for our heads with these studs. ARP recommends 80ft lbs which the consensus is WAY too much and people have cracked the bosses on their heads with this amount of torque. I think the magic number was somewhere around 50. The stock torque is 60, so I went with 60 on my application.

Head studs provide way more clamping force per ft/lb of torque so it is ridiculous that you'd need even more torque than the stock head bolt configuration.

Link to original discussion: http://www.miataturbo.net/showthread...=arp+head+stud

[mazda-dude]

Hmmm, i must admit I cant remember the exact torque i went for, but it was 70 or 80 ft lbs!

Engine still haven't been started, but i cant really decide wheather to keep the the current torque or loosen and re-torque...if can i do that without compromising the effect of the bolt.

Dont want to risk a cracked aluminim head....