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Problem setting ignition timing on bp26 gtx ecu

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    Problem setting ignition timing on bp26 gtx ecu

    As the title states, im having an odd concern i cant really find any info on. We have 91 and 93 escort gt's we turbo'd for a 3/8 mile dirt track. Pretty basic setups using bp26 gtx ecus. Problem is, they are rather slugish because i cannot get the ecu's to go into limp/diagnostic mode so i can set the base timing properly. Therfore the timing is set very conservatively because i had to turn them back from the 18* advance we had in them in N/A form. Obviously without being able to go into diagnostic mode its hard to get a grasp on where your setting it exactly so i just took about 10* out of each which is hard to do accurately with it jumping up and down 5* or so. Both worked with the stock bp05 ecu's. I do know to jump the TEN terminal to ground but it has no effect on either car now. I've done it cold, i've done it hot. I've checked the grd terminal for continuity to ground, i've used a body ground as a jumper point as well. I've even checked the TEN terminal for continuity to the corresponding pin on the ecu and it's ok. Has anyone else run into this? Other than trying to put the stock ecus back in and setting the timing back at 10* i'm at a loss. This method even will be slightly inaccurate however as im sure each ecu has slightly varying response speeds. Any help? Thanks.

    #2
    Do you have a timing light? If so just use that and turn the distributor back or forward to what you want it.
    Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
    "Who Dey"

    Comment


      #3
      Yea i got that part, i know how to set timing on an engine. What i'm saying is you have to be able to put the car in diagnostic mode to set the base timing otherwise the computer will be applying advance to it. i cannot get the car to go into diagnostic mode with the bp26 for some reason. Thats my issue. Thanks for the reply though.

      Comment


        #4
        hhmm.. I havnt heard of anyone having this issue, if you look around the forum there is a pin out for the BP26 you may want to confirm that it matches your harness for pinout.

        long shot but you have already checked the basics
        "Discontent is the first necessity of progress."
        -Thomas A. Edison

        "There is a fine line between ballin' on a budget, and dreamin' on an empty wallet."


        *Junked* 92 mx3, BP swap- milage whore, beaten up and down the east coast
        *Junked* KLZE powered 323 on Megasquirt 1
        172.60HP & 156.93 TQ with only headers and short ram intake. back under the knife for a BPT swap.
        New Daily stock 1.6L 1999 Mazda Protege LX

        Comment


          #5
          Yea i got the gtx pin out sheet, several of them actually as there are few floating around on here (just different formats, same pin locations) and everything on my harness's matche as they should. The 93 was an auto car to start with even so most every wire had been relocated to match the gtx pinouts. Both cars have properly wired 4 wire tps's, disconnected the california ground wire that can cause problems on the bp26 (1M), only thing not done is the knock sensor, boost buzzer, and turbo indicator which most others do not have either and are able to set base timing. It's very odd theyre doing this.

          Comment


            #6
            THen put the stock ecu in and try to put it into diaognostic mode.
            Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
            "Who Dey"

            Comment


              #7
              When looking from the front of the car..... there is a little black plastic box with a cover maybe 1.5x1.5inches. Its on the right hand side of the engine bay near the firewall, behind the strut tower. Its the diagnostic connector. When you fold it open the lid will have a layout of the terminals on the inside. Take a paper clip and jump ten and ground. That's how you set the base timing and base idle speed. You OG's should know that (=
              Last edited by bam; 04-18-2010, 09:42 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by musclestang_95 View Post
                As the title states, im having an odd concern i cant really find any info on. We have 91 and 93 escort gt's we turbo'd for a 3/8 mile dirt track. Pretty basic setups using bp26 gtx ecus. Problem is, they are rather slugish because i cannot get the ecu's to go into limp/diagnostic mode so i can set the base timing properly. Therfore the timing is set very conservatively because i had to turn them back from the 18* advance we had in them in N/A form. Obviously without being able to go into diagnostic mode its hard to get a grasp on where your setting it exactly so i just took about 10* out of each which is hard to do accurately with it jumping up and down 5* or so. Both worked with the stock bp05 ecu's. I do know to jump the TEN terminal to ground but it has no effect on either car now. I've done it cold, i've done it hot. I've checked the grd terminal for continuity to ground, i've used a body ground as a jumper point as well. I've even checked the TEN terminal for continuity to the corresponding pin on the ecu and it's ok. Has anyone else run into this? Other than trying to put the stock ecus back in and setting the timing back at 10* i'm at a loss. This method even will be slightly inaccurate however as im sure each ecu has slightly varying response speeds. Any help? Thanks.
                yep, and we also know how to read the entire post
                Originally posted by bam View Post
                When looking from the front of the car..... there is a little black plastic box with a cover maybe 1.5x1.5inches. Its on the right hand side of the engine bay near the firewall, behind the strut tower. Its the diagnostic connector. When you fold it open the lid will have a layout of the terminals on the inside. Take a paper clip and jump ten and ground. That's how you set the base timing and base idle speed. You OG's should know that (=
                "Discontent is the first necessity of progress."
                -Thomas A. Edison

                "There is a fine line between ballin' on a budget, and dreamin' on an empty wallet."


                *Junked* 92 mx3, BP swap- milage whore, beaten up and down the east coast
                *Junked* KLZE powered 323 on Megasquirt 1
                172.60HP & 156.93 TQ with only headers and short ram intake. back under the knife for a BPT swap.
                New Daily stock 1.6L 1999 Mazda Protege LX

                Comment


                  #9
                  1993 Protege LX-Midnight's shadow SOLD
                  1996 Honda CBR600-Wrecked. Damn Honda crippled me
                  2002 mazda MPV-family truckster SOLD
                  2010 VW routon

                  Originally posted by jay
                  .....they totally underestimated the number of gearheads such as myself that have families but refuse to grow the hell up and stop playing with cars, or that otherwise see the utility of having 4 doors. Obviously I ain't alone, as there are a helluva lotta sti and evo here. Bueler? Beuler? Mazda? Mazda?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So, as clearly pointed out now a few times above, i do know how u are supposed to set the base timing on these cars. The two years prior to having the turbo setups we were changing the timing constantly, week to week until we got the best response from the cars on the track. So we can say i've done it a few times before.

                    I went over everything this weekend to no avail, tried unhooking the battery for a few hours and starting over. Tried to make sure all remaining sensors and what not are still connected and working. In doing so i remembered there are a few that i deleted in the process of going turbo, the PRVC Solenoid, the Canister Purge Solenoid, and the Oxygen Sensor. The O2 seems the most relevant to cause such an issue (its unhooked temporarily for wideband tuning) so i feel i need to reconnect these to see if it makes a difference. I wouldn't think it does but then again, so its best to make sure. I'll be sure to update any changes in my situation incase someone else runs into this in the future. Thanks again for everyones reply.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Why would you take your regular o2 out to run a wideband? Your supposed to weld in a bung 36 inches from the turbo.
                      Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                      "Who Dey"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by bomdoutscort View Post
                        Why would you take your regular o2 out to run a wideband? Your supposed to weld in a bung 36 inches from the turbo.
                        Well considering the factory O2 does nothing at WOT, which is what happens all the time on a dirt track, i welded one bung in the down pipe and it is being used for the wideband until i am happy with the tune, at which point i will reinstall the factory sensor simply to satisfy the ecu.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Didn't read that part.
                          Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                          "Who Dey"

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