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    newb buying a gtx

    about to buy a '88 gtx and im wondering what are significant things to look for. apparently the motor was rebuilt with recently with a stock head gasket and says since it was a stock gasket it blew...

    heres all i have for what to look for with these things, http://www.roadraceengineering.com/323BuyersGuide.htm

    is this a pretty good guide? also is the head gasket fairly similar to other cars of its motor size and year?

    much help appreciated, never owned a mazda been a fan of the gtx for awhile. prob lookin at the car tomorrow so whoever responds first wins...

    i apprecaite it, i guess message me or leave a reply.

    #2
    Nothing wrong with a stock gasket. Was the block deck surfaced along with the head and were new head bolts used. Head bolts can strectch and really should not be reused...although it has been done. For the price of new bolts at the Mazda dealer (11.00 ea.) you could get a set of ARP head studs which isn't a bad idea. I get my head bolts at the Kia dealer (4.00 ea.)..they used the BP(1.8L) in the Sephia's from 94-95..also the same bolt used in the B6T. The B6T is a very stout motor, but like any, you have to put it together right. Good luck on your new venture. I hope you have experience with cars. These are 22 year old machines that have their own quirks and will not get by with just filling with gas and checking the oil and water. It is likely that you WILL have the only one on your block....if that turns your crank. The people on this board and the yahoo GTX group will help you enough to keep your sanity and supplied with need parts.
    Clay

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      #3
      hey i really appreciate it... i will run those questions by him. i have a bit of experience with cars, as far as the things listed on roadraceengineering site is that about it for a buyers guide on this car?? what makes me curious is if the stock gasket should have been fine, is there something he is trying to cover up or hide? cause he said since he used the stock gasket it blew???

      Comment


        #4
        just got off the phone with him, said the block deck and head were surfaced when he did the rebuild. i think he said he threw different rods and pistons in hope to crank up the boost a bit. threw a stock head gasket back in and said it blew outta the third cylinder at 18 psi because that is too much boost for the stock gasket but not for the motor... sound about right??

        Comment


          #5
          no, 18 lbs is fine, the stock gaskets are actuly pretty strong. sounds like the A/F ratios were off and thats probaly how it blew. is it a stock turbo on there? at 18lbs i hope not.
          "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

          Originally posted by neuspeedescort
          the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
          -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
          -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
          -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
          -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

          Comment


            #6
            The 3 big things to worry about are the dreaded crank nose, the wheel bearings, and the gearbox... and rust, depending on where it lives. You want to make certain the crank pulleey has no wobble. If it does that's a proble and if it doesn't it's not a problem and prolly never will be. You want to see to it that all 4 wheels have no slop in the bearings, cuz they're pretty much skateboard grade. Replacing them is a pita but that ain't the bad. The bad is, if they've worn long enough to screw the hub, you're screwed cuz the hubs are made of unobtanium these days. The gearbox is made of glass and suffers no abuse before grenading so you want to run it through the gears and make sure it shifts smoothly, and you'd be well advised to drain an oil sample out of the trans and the centerdiff and at the very least look for metalflake, if not send it off for analysis. Centerdiff has its own oil supply and some owners never knew this and so they oftern never got new lube and this is baaaaaad...
            Other than that, and the salt road tin worm, they're cool cars and I still miss mine.
            And oh yes the roadrace guide is good stuff.
            '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
            '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
            http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

            Comment


              #7
              Agreed.. RRE even thought they don't support the car anymore... they still supply a good buyer's guide. Rust, bearings, crank, and grenades... er gears are the biggest issues. Just like has been stated several times over.

              1988 White GTX - #1 parts
              1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
              1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
              1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
              1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by trailrider098 View Post
                no, 18 lbs is fine, the stock gaskets are actuly pretty strong. sounds like the A/F ratios were off and thats probaly how it blew. is it a stock turbo on there? at 18lbs i hope not.
                I BOUGHT IT!!! as misguided of a decision i made i bought it and towed it about 35 miles back to my buddies garage. geeez.

                18lbs on what he called a hybrid turbo, i believe the exhaust side is stock but has a larger intake side. pushing the cfm up i think almost 100 from stock.

                Comment


                  #9
                  SUCKER....just kidding

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jay View Post
                    The 3 big things to worry about are the dreaded crank nose, the wheel bearings, and the gearbox... and rust, depending on where it lives. You want to make certain the crank pulleey has no wobble. If it does that's a proble and if it doesn't it's not a problem and prolly never will be. You want to see to it that all 4 wheels have no slop in the bearings, cuz they're pretty much skateboard grade. Replacing them is a pita but that ain't the bad. The bad is, if they've worn long enough to screw the hub, you're screwed cuz the hubs are made of unobtanium these days. The gearbox is made of glass and suffers no abuse before grenading so you want to run it through the gears and make sure it shifts smoothly, and you'd be well advised to drain an oil sample out of the trans and the centerdiff and at the very least look for metalflake, if not send it off for analysis. Centerdiff has its own oil supply and some owners never knew this and so they oftern never got new lube and this is baaaaaad...
                    Other than that, and the salt road tin worm, they're cool cars and I still miss mine.
                    And oh yes the roadrace guide is good stuff.
                    alright so i did get it, even with a lot of problems that i was hoping to not find and found... first car is a full on rally ride which is sick and kinda bad at the same time. a lot of work has been done to make it quick and light and keep it on a budget. car is totally gutted with two corbeau seats and regular seat belts. its got all kinds of aftermarket parts on it which is nice because less i have to buy but also its gutted and no front bumper frame just the plastic that i threw in the back. there is so much stuff on this car i will have to list it at some point but im sure i still have not seen all of it.

                    the bad... welp its pretty ghetto, but thats fine i kinda like to have a car i feel like i can really rally on and not feel bad. haha. after we got the car started due to a dead battery we heard a ticking... what we were told before we got there was head gasket was blown in the third cylinder and leaking coolant out of it. going off of the guide i looked at the pulley and saw a small amount of wobble which i read of course was a no no... could i just replace the crank pulley?? as far as the ticking it could be a clanking, its not a knocking it seems to be slower instead of faster meaning its probably a bent valve of some sort so ive heard. i could not see the coolant coming out of the head like he said but maybe cause it didnt warm up enough i dunno.

                    got into the head today, found some metal shavings that didnt stoke us out... found some uneven wear marks on the bracket type things on top of the valves, found some shavings there too. cams both look good though no uneven wear on those.. cylinder walls look good, top of the pistons look good. were trying to find a valve spring compressor tool but cant really find one?? any ideas? were gonna end up just making one, the ones to loan from auto stores wont clear inside the housing i guess it is... anyone know?

                    any and as much guidance and opinions are appreciated. thanks

                    Originally posted by 808 View Post
                    Agreed.. RRE even thought they don't support the car anymore... they still supply a good buyer's guide. Rust, bearings, crank, and grenades... er gears are the biggest issues. Just like has been stated several times over.
                    gears are good i believe, and the diff lock works in it he said and he had it flushed and filled. tried to shake the driveshaft and i could barely move it putting a ton of weight into it so im guessing thats fine. rust looks pretty good, haha meaning where there is rust it looks good i like it! haha no theres hardly any actually even the shock towers and stuff look good, couple small rust spots one on the rear and somewhere else i dont remember.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Welcome to the money pit.

                      1988 White GTX - #1 parts
                      1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
                      1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
                      1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
                      1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 808 View Post
                        Welcome to the money pit.
                        thanks... also were could i find torque specs, and whats a good upgraded head gasket and where could i find it??

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Buy a factory service manual. The best purchase you'll ever make along with the car.

                          Last edited by 808; 05-12-2010, 04:54 PM.

                          1988 White GTX - #1 parts
                          1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
                          1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
                          1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
                          1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Yep...start with the FSM for sure..it will be your Bible and likely your next best pal to TP in the reading room. As far as parts and advice(help) you will surely find what you need on this group or the Yahoo GTX group. I myself just finished breaking down an 88 GTX so when you are ready just ask..someone will have what you need. I have blocks,heads,cranks,cams etc etc etc. here in Mesa Az.
                            Enjoy your journey thru the wonderful land of Maz.
                            Clay

                            Comment


                              #15
                              crank pully you can't swap.. the problem is such a major problem because its the key way in the crank that gets worn.. the only way to fix it is to replace the crank... you'll have to pull it apart and have a look at the crank..

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